Any ideas for improving a TS 59 plough for match ploughig

Precisely as Penine describes. What you describe is what happens when the plough is carried by a central wheel at working depth. The plough rocks back and forth and as the front comes up 1/2" the back goes down and vice versa thus doubling the effect and creating a 1" difference between furrows. The rearward wheel keeps constant positive pressure on the top link. If anybody doesn`t believe this just keep your hand on the top link while ploughing with a central wheeled plough.

the plough has to be in to full depth before the wheel touches the ground to do that, or is yours different ?
thats what i thought ,thankyou both for the input , plus i find the top link isnt as fickle to set,
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Having thought long and hard re plough rocking back and forth, I have to say that if all is set up correctly, and all the slop is removed from the linkage, this cannot happen. As soon as the tractor moves forward, with the plough in the ground, the top link is in compression, and will remain in this condition until the tractor stops. The amount of load on the link will alter dependant on the ground the plough is in, I E hard/ soft, but it will only vary, not reverse. This is of course how draught control can operate, the load change being used to lift or lower the plough, and its also the reason why you dont use it for match work, you dont want the plough jumping out of the ground at every tramline, and burying itself between them. Kverneland used a rear wheel on their commercial ploughs but the match version always used the forward position, Indeed many continental ploughmen plough with the wheel turned in, and facing forward.
For the Plough to rock, the top link, must move forwards and back, as the plough will pivot on the lower links.If the top link is sensitive, I think the problem is likely to be wear in the top link ball joints/ pins/ draught control spring/linkage, shares or the pitch adjustment on the plough bodies. I have removed the ball joints from the top link, and locked up the draught control. The ball joints on the top arms are ok at the moment, but will also be replaced when they begin to slacken off. These also need to be slop free, or your levelling box is going to be next to useless.
By the way, the rear wheel on my plough, as in the avatar, is mainly somewhere to put the marker disk, the depth wheels are on a rocking beam, the front one being well in front, and the rear in line with the front body, they are under the plough frame, and the beam pivot is directly behind the headstock
 
Last edited:

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Having thought long and hard re plough rocking back and forth, I have to say that if all is set up correctly, and all the slop is removed from the linkage, this cannot happen. As soon as the tractor moves forward, with the plough in the ground, the top link is in compression, and will remain in this condition until the tractor stops. The amount of load on the link will alter dependant on the ground the plough is in, I E hard/ soft, but it will only vary, not reverse. This is of course how draught control can operate, the load change being used to lift or lower the plough, and its also the reason why you dont use it for match work, you dont want the plough jumping out of the ground at every tramline, and burying itself between them. Kverneland used a rear wheel on their commercial ploughs but the match version always used the forward position, Indeed many continental ploughmen plough with the wheel turned in, and facing forward.
For the Plough to rock, the top link, must move forwards and back, as the plough will pivot on the lower links.If the top link is sensitive, I think the problem is likely to be wear in the top link ball joints/ pins/ draught control spring/linkage, shares or the pitch adjustment on the plough bodies. I have removed the ball joints from the top link, and locked up the draught control. The ball joints on the top arms are ok at the moment, but will also be replaced when they begin to slacken off. These also need to be slop free, or your levelling box is going to be next to useless.
By the way, the rear wheel on my plough, as in the avatar, is mainly somewhere to put the marker disk, the depth wheels are on a rocking beam, the front one being well in front, and the rear in line with the front body, they are under the plough frame, and the beam pivot is directly behind the headstock
Your set up is not allowed in vintage/classic classes.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Your set up is not allowed in vintage/classic classes.
What part would be illegal? Replacing ball joints with yokes cant be, as some tractors have balls, some yokes, on the linkage upper arms at least. The number of land wheels could be a sticking point, but I dont know if they are limited or not, as they are a frame mod, not body I doubt it.Regarding the classic class, the ts 86 original land wheel can be used outside or in, under the plough.
One thing is certain though, too many vintage and classic ploughmen dont realise that their tractor is in effect, part of the plough, and must be in the same condition regarding wearing parts, wheel settings, for example .Even a snatching brake can play havoc when your trying to position the kit on a downhill plot entry!
 

Tonym

Member
Location
Shropshire
What is not allowed in the classic or vintage classes. You do not have to have draught control and quote "extended wheel axels are allowed".
It does not state wether they can be moved only in and out or forwards and backwards.
Also there is nothing in the rule book to say you can't have two wheels on a rocking axle.
 

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
I was referring to the two wheel arrangement and was convinced that more than one wheel was not allowed. I confess that I can find nothing in the rules about this so I must be wrong. I agree with you about the condition of the tractor and its importance to the set up, right down to tyre pressures. This is the main difference between trailer and mounted ploughing and makes every component inter active. Each single adjustment impacts on the effect of other settings.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
On most vintage ploughs, under beam clearance would be a problem with my set up, now I have had to fit shorter legs, I have had to alter things with the kverneland. The tractor condition is one reason many trailer ploughmen trip up when changing to mounted. My preferred style of work is whole furrow, I used to use a w4 and a 15 rsld with rnd119 boards, qualified for the national with that, but had to have a world style plough to compete there.( Crosby on Eden, 1982 I think) Been in that class ever since.
 
Can anybody work out what sort of skimmer this is? As you can see it is similar to a Ford Ransomes PM skimmer but it isn't. On the back of the skimmer it has "F8963" instead of "WT 10". Also as you can tell the drop down arm ins't like the Ransomes.

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arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
Why are you worrying about it Pete ? It must be Ford as it looks as though it belongs to the rest, which is well worth salvaging. As for the skimmer, use it for a garden ornament !
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
the 3rd furrow frame in the back ground is better to use, it has more cross braces to hold it straight, and it is narrow, so more cross shaft travel, in classic put legs on out side, in vintage back leg on inside, front on outside with a spacer to get 10"
 

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