Lamborghini 105 Cylinder Water Seals

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Just when it all seemed to be going well on a bit of ploughing I noticed a few droplets of water blowing out of the engine oil breather pipe.

I have also been having to top up the cooling water on an ever more frequent basis and it doesn't seem to leaking externally from the cooling system, radiator or water pump not does head gasket seem to be blowing.

The consensus round here seems to be that the cylinder water seals have failed.

Can anybody tell me how big a job it is to replace these and what it might involve. The cylinders look like individual units sat on the block. Never had it apart before, but done a few conventional type cylinder and seal replacements years ago on a Nuffield Universal.

Would the crankshaft need to come out or could it be done from the top and with just sump removal?

Any advice appreciated thanks.
 

Mursal

Member
Disconnect the engine oil cooler first. Usually oil in coolant, but worth checking.
Consider the liners to be porous, especially if the coolant was water more than additive, down through the years?
But it might well be the O Rings.
Drain the engine oil and see if the coolant keep coming out the sump bung over night?

Ford??????????????
This thread has a mind of its own
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
The liners in those engines are on the thin side and prone to corrode through unless top quality antifreeze is used and changed every couple of years and/or an additive, as used in Ford engines, is added.

I don't recall the water-cooled 1000 series engines having separate cylinder units of the same type as used on the air-cooled versions. I can't be sure but I think that these will be very conventional with wet liners in a mono-block, but maybe with individual cylinder heads.

As said above, check the oil cooler first as these certainly are prone to leak one fluid into the other as they reach a certain age.
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
Porous sleeves or worn flat orings most probably, sump off, balencer unit off, heads off, pistons out, pull sleeves upwards with puller. Clean block spotlessly and rebuild.

Where does this 'ford' come from after the word porous?
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Many Thanks.
The coolant level has not dropped since lunchtime while working when I posted and its been working all afternnon. Seems to lose more while sat in shed when cool. Must be into oil as it isn't coming out anywhere else. The oil isn't creamy but the oil level is staying suspiciously high, but not over max. I reckon its a slow leak into the oil while sitting in shed, then it boils it off when working.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Many Thanks.
The coolant level has not dropped since lunchtime while working when I posted and its been working all afternnon. Seems to lose more while sat in shed when cool. Must be into oil as it isn't coming out anywhere else. The oil isn't creamy but the oil level is staying suspiciously high, but not over max. I reckon its a slow leak into the oil while sitting in shed, then it boils it off when working.
Take the sump plug briefly off first thing in the morning to see what's lurking in the bottom.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
have just drained out the oil. No sign of water or mayonnaise.

have left the sump plug off with an empty bucket underneath to see if any water drips down during the night.

Expansion tank level still up to mark. No sign of oil in coolant.

Breather pipe comes off a strange looking device on engine block. Any idea what that device is and if it's any connection to cooling system?
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
At a guess it is an oil separator which takes the oil mist out of the gas. The best of these are centrifugal, in that they swirl the gas around a vertical auger-type spiral so that the heavier oil hits the outer wall and flows down and back into the sump. Not usually connected to the cooling system, although some designs do deliver the gas back to the inlet manifold to be combusted. Not in your case I don't think.
 

Mur Huwcun

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
North West Wales
At the back of block? Plastic housing? Not much, just a filter housing between block and hose depending on year of tractor. Is it a Formula 105 or a Premium 1050?

Much better explanation above.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
It's a Formula 105 powerspeed.

Just curious why so many water droplets sprinkling out of breather pipe yet no water obvious in sump.

Come to think of it, the exhaust does look a bit like a steam engine on cold start in winter, but maybe that's just cold diesel smoke. dunno. Bit of mystery. Hoping I can finish this years autumn ploughing before stripping down, but maybe that's optimistic. Will be keeping an eye on levels and draining oil regularly.
 

Mursal

Member
The droplets might be condensation, but that doesn't account for the drop in coolant level.
There will be a smell of the droplets if coolant ..........
Not that you're going to start sniffing droplets ...........
 
Last edited:

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
It's a Formula 105 powerspeed.

Just curious why so many water droplets sprinkling out of breather pipe yet no water obvious in sump.

Come to think of it, the exhaust does look a bit like a steam engine on cold start in winter, but maybe that's just cold diesel smoke. dunno. Bit of mystery. Hoping I can finish this years autumn ploughing before stripping down, but maybe that's optimistic. Will be keeping an eye on levels and draining oil regularly.
Mine smokes like a steam engine on cold start in winter - and he has no probs -so i wouldnt worry about that aspect
 

The_Swede

Member
Arable Farmer
As @Bury the Trash says smoking on start up is nothing new with a liquid cooled 1000 series, think they finally did something about this through a tappet re-design only a few years ago. That said the current one here doesn't smoke at all.
 

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