By looking at the line on the boards the front furrow is ploughing much deeper than the back. Is the top link too short ? If the furrow bottom is ragged you are cultivating, not ploughing. It should be fairly clean and smooth. Stand to the side of the plough and see if the frame is level or downhill at the front, it should be very slightly tail down if anything. The angle on the boards looks a bit suspect but not necessarily because the twists are different. Use the inclinometer on the back end and across the front. This should give a clue. They are fairly crude devices but will be accurate enough for what we are trying to achieve.
genuine YL 's ???
- Thread starter tomlad
- Start date
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
Okay
I'll do some measuring when the inclomometer comes
I'll do some measuring when the inclomometer comes
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
inclinometer not come yet
got my yl 61 's
been doing some tests ..
if the frame is level both ways ,in the workshop ,on concrete , with spirit level.
both legs about plumb, should the land slides be 90 ' up plumb ? there no were near ,
I think the frame has a slight twist , if perfect level at cross shaft end , as you go rear wards the bubble starts to drift , how accurate were they made tho? , not a massive amount out , but its there .
I'm currently concentrating on the frogs , I have 3 .
they were quite rusty / flaking when I bought it , has some metal been lost from the lands for the land slides ? sockets for points are a nice fit so there profile is about right ????
I presume the frogs cant get distorted through wear and tear , do they bend or snap ?
still confused
regards
got my yl 61 's
been doing some tests ..
if the frame is level both ways ,in the workshop ,on concrete , with spirit level.
both legs about plumb, should the land slides be 90 ' up plumb ? there no were near ,
I think the frame has a slight twist , if perfect level at cross shaft end , as you go rear wards the bubble starts to drift , how accurate were they made tho? , not a massive amount out , but its there .
I'm currently concentrating on the frogs , I have 3 .
they were quite rusty / flaking when I bought it , has some metal been lost from the lands for the land slides ? sockets for points are a nice fit so there profile is about right ????
I presume the frogs cant get distorted through wear and tear , do they bend or snap ?
still confused
regards
mike.l
Member
- Location
- london ontario
Hi have been following this thread and it is very interesting to me i plow in the antique class with a petrol nuffield and a david brown 2 furrow plow and have been having the same issues as you - not sure of what to measure and what to determine after i measure only comment i could add is what about the tractor tire if its a bit wide you will crush the last furrow and that will show up the same. mike.
Standard tyres on a Nuffield are 12.4/11-36 which should be OK on 10" furrows but are your wheels set correctly ? They should be 48" centres at the front and 52" at the back. This should give you near enough 41" inside at front and 40" back (You could give the back another inch on a Nuffield with sliding axles). Then make sure you are ploughing 10" wide on the front and adjust the cross shaft accordingly. It goes without saying that with this set up you will spoil the work if you drive away from the furrow wall. This is why I use 10-28 tyres on my International.
You need the open furrow to be only just wide enough to get your tyre in. The furrow width has no bearing on this as it is arrived at by the amount of "push" given by the mouldboard. For example, My KV works at 12", but the open furrow is just over ten and a half, with the boards in their natural( stays removed) position, This is ok as it allows me to push them out slightly, which takes up any free play in the stays. Tyre size should be no more than 11x36.and of crossply construction. Radials flex too much, and so leave a wider footprint
mike.l
Member
- Location
- london ontario
Thanks for your replies up untill last year i plowed with 13.6 tires and plow set for 12" the width between tires set to 44 next year different tractor 40" between tires and plow changed to 11" but still going with 13.6 tires and set the boards to push a little more
mike and merry christmas from canada to you all and hi to harry
mike and merry christmas from canada to you all and hi to harry
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
Thanks for input sirs
rear tyres on my 65 are 12 X 32 (12.4) ?
Hopefully the 12 inch is okay with the 10 inch furrow
Plough s not be touched for a while . not had chance
I do think that there may be issues with front disc . Set wide . but that's were the soil turned best. With it a bit wide.
All a bit odd
I will update when I get chance to be back in the field
if it ever dries up
all the best
rear tyres on my 65 are 12 X 32 (12.4) ?
Hopefully the 12 inch is okay with the 10 inch furrow
Plough s not be touched for a while . not had chance
I do think that there may be issues with front disc . Set wide . but that's were the soil turned best. With it a bit wide.
All a bit odd
I will update when I get chance to be back in the field
if it ever dries up
all the best
Set the rear disc to cut about 3/4" wide, just enough to leave a clean furrow wall without too much evidence of an overcut or step. Then set the front disc the same. That way both furrows of the same width and depth should move the same amount of soil. If your front disc is too narrow you will see soil bubbling round the front mouldboard and into the path of the rear skimmer.
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
I had that bubbling as you describe bob
so I kept cranking the disc till it stopped
The front disc setting hasn't been changed so I'll photo when I get chance.
looking at it in shop it looks to wide to me
but that setting seemed necessary ???
All good fun eh.
so I kept cranking the disc till it stopped
The front disc setting hasn't been changed so I'll photo when I get chance.
looking at it in shop it looks to wide to me
but that setting seemed necessary ???
All good fun eh.
Roy Stokes
Member
- Location
- East Shropshire
If you are ploughing with the cross shaft cranked off the 6-12 o'clock positions on the pin ends your disc setting will be wider/narrower to compensate for the plough crabbing slightly, set the pins to 6/12 o'clock, measure front furrow width the push the cross shaft through it's holes in the direction needed to correct the width, then use the width(pratting) handle to compensate for slopes/ground changes
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
I'll look at this when I can get back in the field
it's all a bit wet at the moment
do we think 1/2" adjustments on the cross shaft may make all the difference. ?
it's all a bit wet at the moment
do we think 1/2" adjustments on the cross shaft may make all the difference. ?
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
My aim had been to match the furrows ie get a start datem for my plough then try to make threaded cross shaft ect
but get it working nicely first.
but get it working nicely first.
Half inch variations in front furrow width are the absolute maximum in most soils that will not show obvious pairing. When making almost any adjustment on a plough it will impact on other settings. For instance cranking the cross shaft pins out of the vertical will also lay the plough frame to the left and thus lift the front furrow slightly and lower the rear thus altering relative furrow depth as well as front furrow width. This may seem insignificant but a small movement of the pins is muliplied by a factor of two. As one (left) goes back it also goes up and the reverse with the right. The plough will indeed crab, at least until it has pulled into a straight behind position , so cranking the cross shaft is only a temporary measure in order to alter furrow width while in motion by fairly small amounts. Put simply the plough should always run in "harmony" for best results and not contorted in any way. Running top links way out of line is another cause of problems. Trailer ploughmen have almost all the standard adjustments that keep a plough running in harmony. Most adjustments on standard mounted ploughs are a compromise to make for manufacturing simplicity coupled with moderately effective results. Therefore the first modification to produce good match ploughing is to make the drawbar (cross shaft) easily adjustable from side to side in easily visible increments.
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
thank you as always sirs
I think I,ve been trying to adjust to much with the cranking winder , when I should have been concentrating on sliding the cross shaft .
i'll look into this .
a 'standard setting ' of crosshaft is particular to each plough /tractor combo ??
I think I,ve been trying to adjust to much with the cranking winder , when I should have been concentrating on sliding the cross shaft .
i'll look into this .
a 'standard setting ' of crosshaft is particular to each plough /tractor combo ??
The only two occasions when I put the winder to extreme use is when I make my first run on the neighbours side and when I want the plough to run very narrow on the chip. Neither of these runs are judged but both have an important impact on what follows. Incidentally, I think the quality of the chip can make or break the crown and is the most underrated part of the whole process.
- Location
- Norfolk
I Have a ferguson single furrow deep digger plough with disc coulter and the furrow press for sale £250 07901821025
Roy Stokes
Member
- Location
- East Shropshire
tomlad
Member
- Location
- nr. preston
combines been busy so I have some stubble !!
time to boss my plough me thinks.
the bodies have been off since winter , is there a correct technique to re assembly other than getter done ?
or the words of advice already given ?
planning to drill out the riveted kidney spacer to try and pin it so the bolt knips it square .
regards
time to boss my plough me thinks.
the bodies have been off since winter , is there a correct technique to re assembly other than getter done ?
or the words of advice already given ?
planning to drill out the riveted kidney spacer to try and pin it so the bolt knips it square .
regards