H.Jackson
Member
- Location
- West Sussex
This is a recurring comment, removing straw, not a problem with dd. OM building just from uldd or are you applying compost fym, or are you replacing p & k from a bag?
Carbon Choking
- Thread starter Clive
- Start date
Place small amounts of dap, no fym but leaving stubbles fairly long and chaff etc.
I think the key is to leave what is left on the surface, there's plenty of om left after removing the straw. And remember we are generally growing a winter crop after winter crop so small window not like the US where there is plenty of time for natural rotting and breakdown
All I can tell you is the results I will post some up when I go across to the office.
I think the key is to leave what is left on the surface, there's plenty of om left after removing the straw. And remember we are generally growing a winter crop after winter crop so small window not like the US where there is plenty of time for natural rotting and breakdown
All I can tell you is the results I will post some up when I go across to the office.
Baling Hay
Member
I wonder if a stripper header would result in less carbon choking similar to baling?
Think you are right. But for me baling is a useful income and gives my old cultivator driver and tractor something to do.
What ever you do keep it simple....it generally works then,and don't try to be to scientific, as we really don't understand it anyway. There no 100% right way each year is different.
SilliamWhale
Member
I bale all my straw wheat and barley. I'm lucky in that I get muck back so I'm not stripping the asset but I honestly reckon baling straw and proper no till is better than chopping and light cultivation or high disturbance drilling/strip till. There is so much going on at the interface between the soil/plant surface/air etc. that I'll always strive to keep this layer as undisturbed as possible. Baling and not disturbing soil is more of value to me than not baling and cultivating.
But I recognise if no one is going to give you any money for the straw then it is a bit galling. I suppose the way to do it then would be to sell barley straw but maybe after chopped winter wheat put beans, cover crop or a spring crop so chances of trouble are a bit less.
- Location
- Ashford, Kent
Do you apply lots of sulphur to your soils?
shakerator
Member
- Location
- LINCS
Steel
Member
- Location
- Finley, Riverina, Australia
You have ph and organic matter we only dream of in Australia.
I have ph down to 4.8 and over 1.5% OM is good.
I think the cool wet conditions are the cause of poor looking crops.
We get winter yellows when it is cooler and wetter and I put 100 kg/ha of urea to get the crops looking good.
Then another 2 lots of 100kg/ha of urea in the spring.
I incorporate all my wheat stubbles with a Kuhn multidisk over summer and try and get them chopped up in the top inch just so I can get my airseeder through them.
Averaged about 6 t/ha this year and up to 7 t/ha over my irrigated wheat this year.
I would like to know how much fertilizer you put on to get the 10 t/ha and better I hear of in the UK.
I have ph down to 4.8 and over 1.5% OM is good.
I think the cool wet conditions are the cause of poor looking crops.
We get winter yellows when it is cooler and wetter and I put 100 kg/ha of urea to get the crops looking good.
Then another 2 lots of 100kg/ha of urea in the spring.
I incorporate all my wheat stubbles with a Kuhn multidisk over summer and try and get them chopped up in the top inch just so I can get my airseeder through them.
Averaged about 6 t/ha this year and up to 7 t/ha over my irrigated wheat this year.
I would like to know how much fertilizer you put on to get the 10 t/ha and better I hear of in the UK.
To be honest we are on mainly brashly soils and so our yield tends to be limited by water supply in May and June. Our average yields are 8.5 tonnes and I apply 180-210kg/ha on n. depending on potential at the time
The high ph is a pain with phosphate lock up
The high ph is a pain with phosphate lock up
dontknowanything
Member
- Location
- Cambridge
We generally use 180kg/ha (of N), to average about 10t/ha for first wheats
mikep
Member
- Location
- Arse end of Surrey, UK
Lets have a bit of the old corporal Jones thing 'ere 'Dont panic'
With age sometimes comes wisdom and it also allows a large degree of hindsight. Firstly you wont be harvesting anything you can see now so it is purely there as a building block.
The recent spell of very mild weather has been great for aerial growth but with the high rainfall the roots may not be able to feed very well as the N will be down a bit deeper. Secondly a large amount of green can help establish a disease reservoir that may put you on the back foot all next year. You can then spend a fortune on keeping them clean to make sure you lose even more money on them.
I usually find that the best crops have tillered well and can lose most of the older leaves by now without any problem.
Too much thinking can be bad for you as you tend to invent problems.
there is no panic, more observation that I feel I need to learn from to avoid issues in the future
similar total here but gets me more like 8.5t of milling wheat, when we get over 10t we are borderline on protiens
dontknowanything
Member
- Location
- Cambridge
We are always low protein, am going to try OSR -> CC -> milling wheat next year to see if it makes any difference
Baling Hay
Member
why would it make a difference?
dontknowanything
Member
- Location
- Cambridge
Anecdotal evidence suggests it may
mikep
Member
- Location
- Arse end of Surrey, UK
May not be an issue to avoid that is my point. First rule of anything is if it ain't broke don't fix it. So is it broke? no its a bit yellow, will this effect the yeild? probably not. As long as the plant is not losing tillers then an even green winter crop is mainly vanity, a good frost and then a nice spring and problen solved at nil cost.
I think in a season where conditions conspired it could be a problem that could loose a crop ? i.e. these crops look weak right now but its been warm and a they were established in near perfect conditions, so if it had been a lot colder, wetter autumn on my less well drained soils and maybe they had not been drilled in such ideal circumstance then I could be looking at a failure .......which I would rather avoid
Its just something I think I need to watch for while my soil developed better balance, and maybe use a bit more N if it looks like I could get those conditions in the short term