Sanderson Teleporter - trailer brakes

Harvested

New Member
I’m trying to source a trailer braking kit for my Teleporter. Some models were factory fitted with them but sadly not mine. Does anyone know where I might be able to purchase a kit?
 

deere66

Member
Location
York
I might be wrong but I think the Ford engined models used the power steering pump from a tractor to work the trailer brakes. Driven off the timing cover, should be easy enough to rig up. Not sure about Perkins
 

ACEngineering

Member
Location
Oxon
I might be wrong but I think the Ford engined models used the power steering pump from a tractor to work the trailer brakes. Driven off the timing cover, should be easy enough to rig up. Not sure about Perkins

could be right on that? although I would think you could take the feed off the steering priority valve on either ford or perkins?

Personally I just wouldn't though, sanderson would be 20years at its youngest possibly 30 plus depending on model! they weren't a lot of cop for towing when new let alone 20 plus years on!
 

Harvested

New Member
Thanks for your replies. It’s a Perkins engine 725c 1995. I was hoping to pull a 4 tonne trailer a couple of miles on the road between two pieces of our land. Sounds like I might be wasting my time? New to the world of handlers and towing so learning as I go along.
 

ACEngineering

Member
Location
Oxon
@deere66 - the steering on mine feels light. I note that it does tend to understeer on the road when in 2 wheel steer mode.

Understeer? What as in wander around and not go in striaght line?

Probably worn track rods/steering ram bearings/ steering ram seals leaking and worn king pins. There bad for all that on them models.

I doubt towing 4 ton is worth fitting trailer brakes imo?

You would have to tee in to the pipe feeding steering orbital unit and use that as a supply to trailer brake valve. This is how its done on old manitous so i assume it will work on sanderson.

There isnt another easy way i can think of.
One problem could be sanderson use dot4 brake fluid and i think most if not all trailer brake valves are mineral fluid?
You could always flush system out well and use mineral brake fluid instead i guess to over come that problem.
 

ACEngineering

Member
Location
Oxon
@ACEngineering at slower speeds on tight turns it just seems to push on a bit - might just be a bad driver!

Sorry i dont think i understand?

Firstly 2wheel steer is useless. Forget it and keep it in 4ws.

If you mean it wants to keep going straight when in 2ws instead of turning then you probably got too much weight on pick up/ trailer hitch.
Or limited slip diff might be siezed up probably due to wrong oil spec or desprate for an oil change.

They are very light on front when empty! And dont corner right handed too fast/hard or hit a pot hole or be on a slope when turning right because they like to roll over easy
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
I'll second Ace's comments. They are particulary unstable with weight on the trailer hitch, with boom up, turning and a little uneven ground. For a short distance, and, I if the terrain is fairly flat, you should be ok towing 4 ton of trailer/ load. Have you got a tipping pipe outlet? Often fitted in conjunction with the PUH with a manual diverter valve. You could fit a male connector or adapted to the trailer brake an manually use the PUH spool.
Always use our old 725 in 4ws and 4wd. As long as you centre up the steering regularly I don't seem to get any wind up.
 

MF-ANDY

Member
Location
s.e cambs
Understeer? What as in wander around and not go in striaght line?

Probably worn track rods/steering ram bearings/ steering ram seals leaking and worn king pins. There bad for all that on them models.

I doubt towing 4 ton is worth fitting trailer brakes imo?

You would have to tee in to the pipe feeding steering orbital unit and use that as a supply to trailer brake valve. This is how its done on old manitous so i assume it will work on sanderson.

There isnt another easy way i can think of.
One problem could be sanderson use dot4 brake fluid and i think most if not all trailer brake valves are mineral fluid?
You could always flush system out well and use mineral brake fluid instead i guess to over come that problem.
Understeer? What as in wander around and not go in striaght line?

Probably worn track rods/steering ram bearings/ steering ram seals leaking and worn king pins. There bad for all that on them models.

I doubt towing 4 ton is worth fitting trailer brakes imo?

You would have to tee in to the pipe feeding steering orbital unit and use that as a supply to trailer brake valve. This is how its done on old manitous so i assume it will work on sanderson.

There isnt another easy way i can think of.
One problem could be sanderson use dot4 brake fluid and i think most if not all trailer brake valves are mineral fluid?
You could always flush system out well and use mineral brake fluid instead i guess to over come that problem.
iirc the 725c has a danfoss pilot operated priority valve so there wouldn't be any pressure until you steered.
 

Harvested

New Member
I'll second Ace's comments. They are particulary unstable with weight on the trailer hitch, with boom up, turning and a little uneven ground. For a short distance, and, I if the terrain is fairly flat, you should be ok towing 4 ton of trailer/ load. Have you got a tipping pipe outlet? Often fitted in conjunction with the PUH with a manual diverter valve. You could fit a male connector or adapted to the trailer brake an manually use the PUH spool.
Always use our old 725 in 4ws and 4wd. As long as you centre up the steering regularly I don't seem to get any wind up.

Currently fitting a pick up hitch. Planning to take a feed from the hoses for the front services via T port valves as unlikely I’ll ever use the front services.

Would prefer to add an additional ‘slice’ to the spool valves but can’t seem to find a supplier for them.

Think I’ll forget a trailer braking point and just use our current tractor and trailer set up. It was just to save running round with two machines.
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
Currently fitting a pick up hitch. Planning to take a feed from the hoses for the front services via T port valves as unlikely I’ll ever use the front services.

Would prefer to add an additional ‘slice’ to the spool valves but can’t seem to find a supplier for them.

Think I’ll forget a trailer braking point and just use our current tractor and trailer set up. It was just to save running round with two machines.
The puh on our Sanderson shares the same service as a tipping pipe. The hitch is powered up and down. There is a switch over valve at the rear which dumps the oil in the tipping valve back to the tank (effectively). I have used a trailer brake manually on the tipping/hitch service which worked ok. YOu could run pipes from you third service back along the chassis and have a switch over valve to retain the 3rd service just in case.
 

deere66

Member
Location
York
Slightly off topic, has anyone fitted the flywheel driven hyd pump off a Ford tractor to a Sanderson to supply the steering then do away with the priority valve? Sledgehammer to a nut?:banghead:
 

Mr Happy

Member
Location
Norwich
Currently fitting a pick up hitch. Planning to take a feed from the hoses for the front services via T port valves as unlikely I’ll ever use the front services.

Would prefer to add an additional ‘slice’ to the spool valves but can’t seem to find a supplier for them.

Think I’ll forget a trailer braking point and just use our current tractor and trailer set up. It was just to save running round with two machines.
What make of spool valve is fitted to your machine. If it's a Danfoss PVG32 I will be able to help you with the parts required.
 

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