Massy 365 no charge

Green grower

Member
Horticulture
Location
Gosberton
Having problems with charging checked cables to altornator
Feed connection was frayed recrimped new connector
Wire goes into a black plastic piece another wire goes onto frame of altonator and male pin on other end does not have circuit through from male pin to feed but 350ohm to earth is this faulty?
 

Mursal

Member
Not sure to be honest?

Below is connections for Lucas alternator like in the picture fitted to most Massey's of that vintage? ?

Only two connections necessary.
Large wire coming from alternator goes to battery connection on starter
Small wire from warning light in the dash (rub it off clean metal to light the bulb) goes to the small push on on the back of the alternator. A light rev of the throttle light should go out and battery voltage will be on the rise.

Wire going to frame is an earth only necessary if the alternator is mounted on rubber mounts.



jcb-right-hand-lucas-acr-alternator-100-120-[3]-10125-p.jpg
 

Mursal

Member
Can you get a picture?
As I'm not up to speed on the pin outs of the Marelli alternator didn't even know they were fitted to 365
 

Tech12

New Member
Hi: With your battery disconnected, use your multimeter set to ohms and check between the frame of the alternator & a good clean spot on the engine metalwork. You should have a very low resistance reading, ideally less than 1 ohm. If the reading is high, reconnect the battery and connect a jump lead between the metal alternator frame and a good earth on the engine, start the tractor & see if it charges.
If you have 2 wires on the alternator then normally the thick charge wire will go to the battery and the smaller wire would either go to the charge indicator or an external voltage regulator.
A picture of the alternator may help.
 

Tech12

New Member
Not been able to find a schematic for the 365. From what I found though, if the system hasn't been modified then the thick cable does go to the solenoid & the thin cable goes to an external regulator.


Hope that helps some: Andy
 

Tech12

New Member
Hi : Thanks for the picture, the small board needs to be insulated. Looks like it's shorting to ground, the W terminal and small earth terminal are for a tachometer takeoff.
The 3 wires you need to look at are on the black plug.
 

Green grower

Member
Horticulture
Location
Gosberton
Hi: With your battery disconnected, use your multimeter set to ohms and check between the frame of the alternator & a good clean spot on the engine metalwork. You should have a very low resistance reading, ideally less than 1 ohm. If the reading is high, reconnect the battery and connect a jump lead between the metal alternator frame and a good earth on the engine, start the tractor & see if it charges.
If you have 2 wires on the alternator then normally the thick charge wire will go to the battery and the smaller wire would either go to the charge indicator or an external voltage regulator.
A picture of the alternator may help.
Is the battery light on the dash working?
Dash batt light on at switch on out on starting
 

Tech12

New Member
If you mean the connections to W & ground from the small PCB then don't worry about them for now. They shouldn't have any effect on charging. Check that the alternator case is well earthed first, with the Big black plug disconnected the 2 big brown wires should be live all the time.
I normally use a normal 12v test light for checking this sort of thing, a multimeter can pick up ghost voltages.
 

Green grower

Member
Horticulture
Location
Gosberton
Hi : Thanks for the picture, the small board needs to be insulated. Looks like it's shorting to ground, the W terminal and small earth terminal are for a tachometer takeoff.
The 3 wires you need to look at are on the black plug.
If you mean the connections to W & ground from the small PCB then don't worry about them for now. They shouldn't have any effect on charging. Check that the alternator case is well earthed first, with the Big black plug disconnected the 2 big brown wires should be live all the time.
I normally use a normal 12v test light for checking this sort of thing, a multimeter can pick up ghost voltages.
If you mean the connections to W & ground from the small PCB then don't worry about them for now. They shouldn't have any effect on charging. Check that the alternator case is well earthed first, with the Big black plug disconnected the 2 big brown wires should be live all the time.
I normally use a normal 12v test light for checking this sort of thing, a multimeter can pick up ghost voltages.
If you mean the connections to W & ground from the small PCB then don't worry about them for now. They shouldn't have any effect on charging. Check that the alternator case is well earthed first, with the Big black plug disconnected the 2 big brown wires should be live all the time.
I normally use a normal 12v test light for checking this sort of thing, a multimeter can pick up ghost voltages.
 

Tech12

New Member
Sorry I'm going to bow out now as your not actually answering the questions your asked, your just re-posting the questions.

Good luck finding the answer to your problem.
 

Mursal

Member
You have an alternator with built in regulator so only need two wires.

Disconnect that PCB and hand it up somewhere ............

The large wires seem to be going to the battery (unless you have a bad connection)
Small warning light wire coming from tractor, identify it by earthing it (connect to the frame of the alternator). With the ignition on you should have control of the warning light, disconnect wire and it goes out?

Then with that identified connect to a small terminal on the back of the alternator (usually marked WL or sometimes F), if you choose the wrong one, it wont come on with the key or wont go out when running.

Keep it simple, shout if you get stuck ..............

Edit:
The above applies if the alternator is good and working properly.
 
Last edited:

Green grower

Member
Horticulture
Location
Gosberton
You have an alternator with built in regulator so only need two wires.

Disconnect that PCB and hand it up somewhere ............

The large wires seem to be going to the battery (unless you have a bad connection)
Small warning light wire coming from tractor, identify it by earthing it (connect to the frame of the alternator). With the ignition on you should have control of the warning light, disconnect wire and it goes out?

Then with that identified connect to a small terminal on the back of the alternator (usually marked WL or sometimes F), if you choose the wrong one, it wont come on with the key or wont go out when running.

Keep it simple, shout if you get stuck ..............

Edit:
The above applies if the alternator is good and working properly.
 

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