Hold down bolts question

fermerboy

Member
Location
Banffshire
Last ones done here they hammered in a couple of bits of rebar to the right level. Made for easy filling of the hole, till the bar ends were level with crate. Didnt have to faff with level when the mixer was here. And and then they set the plywood on top of them, still used the strings and cross though.
 

BredRedHfd

Member
BASIS
Location
NE Derbyshire
View attachment 725228 This is what happens when tight arsed farmers say they can do it to save a few quid

Iyf8wqG.jpg
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
anyone have the cones move ever so slightly when shaking the bolt box into the concrete?
latest set I have just used the hole saw to cut a gripping ring in for the edge of the cone, digging the shed Monday so conc tues or wed weather depending.
the stations are 14" but the bolts are on 200mm centres, seem small to me?
a 60ft span and the holes are to be 1.2x1.2x1.2 as appose to 1m? seems overkill?
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
And / or a wooden board with holes drilled in to match the plates on the bottom of the uprights.
Make sure the square washers are welded onto the heads of the bolts and you will be able to push them into the bases.
A mate didn't weld the washers on and had to abandon bolts and use resin anchor instead. Eeeek!
they're normally a square hole in washer and a square under the head of the bolt to drive it?
could have used mole grips and managed surely?
 

Nearly

Member
Location
North of York
they're normally a square hole in washer and a square under the head of the bolt to drive it?
could have used mole grips and managed surely?
Yes but can't push 4 of them into stiff mix concrete. If they're welded together you have a better chance of pushing them in sideways. A wetter mix would have helped. I was just dumper driver on that one.
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
Yes but can't push 4 of them into stiff mix concrete. If they're welded together you have a better chance of pushing them in sideways. A wetter mix would have helped. I was just dumper driver on that one.
don't you do as above and fasten all 4 to a plywood creating a bolt box?
I have experienced stiffer conc as you say, (got mixer a bit stuck and by time we had got it out and got round last couple were a bit stiff to shove in)
 

BobGreen

Member
Location
Lancs
Don’t have concrete too stiff Most important is getting string lines set out and checked. Have profiles level so that strings lines are level. This will make check diagonals more accurate. We use tight knots on lines to mark centres also have used crocodile clips as well and a plumb bob down to cross on plywood
Measure first knot from profile and then knot to knot with steel tape. A long tape has too much sag I find
We used to set concrete to a level but now find it easier and more accurate to pour concrete, set bolts and take levels below FFL and then make stanchions to fit. Easier cutting steel to the mm then settling concrete
Finally before concrete sets check all measurements again
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
Don’t have concrete too stiff Most important is getting string lines set out and checked. Have profiles level so that strings lines are level. This will make check diagonals more accurate. We use tight knots on lines to mark centres also have used crocodile clips as well and a plumb bob down to cross on plywood
Measure first knot from profile and then knot to knot with steel tape. A long tape has too much sag I find
We used to set concrete to a level but now find it easier and more accurate to pour concrete, set bolts and take levels below FFL and then make stanchions to fit. Easier cutting steel to the mm then settling concrete
Finally before concrete sets check all measurements again
don't you just get them pretty near and then add an odd piece of steel under baseplate?
 

Fergieman

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Northumberland
Don’t have concrete too stiff Most important is getting string lines set out and checked. Have profiles level so that strings lines are level. This will make check diagonals more accurate. We use tight knots on lines to mark centres also have used crocodile clips as well and a plumb bob down to cross on plywood
Measure first knot from profile and then knot to knot with steel tape. A long tape has too much sag I find
We used to set concrete to a level but now find it easier and more accurate to pour concrete, set bolts and take levels below FFL and then make stanchions to fit. Easier cutting steel to the mm then settling concrete
Finally before concrete sets check all measurements again

That how our shed builder does it, makes stanchions to suit.
 

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
anyone have the cones move ever so slightly when shaking the bolt box into the concrete?
latest set I have just used the hole saw to cut a gripping ring in for the edge of the cone, digging the shed Monday so conc tues or wed weather depending.
the stations are 14" but the bolts are on 200mm centres, seem small to me?
a 60ft span and the holes are to be 1.2x1.2x1.2 as appose to 1m? seems overkill?
We stopped using those waxed cones years ago as they tend to collapse when pushed into the concrete and do not want to stay where you put them, We use 40 mm wast pipe cut to length and assembled on the template they are really strong and do not want to float should the concrete come a bit on the wet side,We have templates folded from 3mm plate with a pin welded on for centres these can be reused time after time and are much better to remove than ply
Screen Shot 2018-10-13 at 15.45.01.png
 

Farm buy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Got a shed going up and going to bolt it down.
What's the best thing to use to keep the bolts in the right place when pouring the pads?
We pour the pads and bolt down the stanchions with M20 through bolts .there is always about a ft of concrete over the pads again.
 

Container man

Member
Mixed Farmer
Hi to all.
just wanted to know. Has anyone put up a building using. Chemfix anchors. Or threw bolts.
As I was going. To pour a large concrete slab raft First, with ring beam foundation Then use the anchors to fix the Stutions. Down. ?
building is. 40 feet. By 25 feet. 12 feet to the eves ,Hot rooled. Rsj frame. 7inc x4 inc.
Will be used as a tractor shed /work shop
 

Sharpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Hi to all.
just wanted to know. Has anyone put up a building using. Chemfix anchors. Or threw bolts.
As I was going. To pour a large concrete slab raft First, with ring beam foundation Then use the anchors to fix the Stutions. Down. ?
building is. 40 feet. By 25 feet. 12 feet to the eves ,Hot rooled. Rsj frame. 7inc x4 inc.
Will be used as a tractor shed /work shop
I have used through bolts, fairly speeds up the base job, really slows down stanchion fitting. I would not use chemical anchors as they need time to set to usable strength. You must concrete over whatever fixing you use though.
 

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Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

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quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

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