Haybob design variations?

Dry Rot · Nov 6, 2018

I picked up a haybob yesterday described as a PZ Haybob Mk II and found a manual for a similar machine on line.

One thing, there is no centre board or what the manual calls a "levelling board" on mine nor can I find one like it on Google images either. I've looked carefully and the only fixing points (if that's what they are) are a couple of holes near the head stock, one blanked off with a bolt and nut that doesn't seem to have any other function. Maybe the manufacturers didn't think it needed one.

Comparing this model with others, the rotors do seem to be closer together and the tines will probably clash occasionally until I can get around to adjusting them.

Any thoughts?

Chuckie · Nov 6, 2018

Could it be a lely hayzip?

Fivedoors · Nov 6, 2018

That’s a lely hayzip mk 2 ten tines on each rotor the lely haymaid had 8 tines per rotor

Tim G · Nov 6, 2018

The nut and bolt on the headstock are holding the pin in.

Sharpy · Nov 6, 2018

As above, it's not a Haybob.

NasherXL · Nov 6, 2018

Lely hayzip as mentioned for sure. Bought one a few years ago thinking I was saving a packet over a proper pz but was a nasty wee thing-shook and clattered up and down the field so was glad to get it away in place of a pz300.

renewablejohn · Nov 6, 2018

Definetely a Hayzip. Keep an eye on the rotor the mounts come unwelded and break off. Unless I can find another rotor mine will be going to the scrap man.

Dry Rot · Nov 6, 2018

renewablejohn said:
Definetely a Hayzip. Keep an eye on the rotor the mounts come unwelded and break off. Unless I can find another rotor mine will be going to the scrap man.

I'm guessing the rotor design is similar to te Lely Stabilo tedder in which case there are two bearings inside which can fail. I recently replaced two in my Stabilo. Once they go, I imagine the rotor would soon follow. But oterwise, the zip appears to be well constructed.

But I'm still wonderimg about the missing "levelling board"!

renewablejohn · Nov 7, 2018

Dry Rot said:
I'm guessing the rotor design is similar to te Lely Stabilo tedder in which case there are two bearings inside which can fail. I recently replaced two in my Stabilo. Once they go, I imagine the rotor would soon follow. But oterwise, the zip appears to be well constructed.

But I'm still wonderimg about the missing "levelling board"!

If you cant use it without the levelling board I will take it off your hands as spares for mine.

renewablejohn · Nov 7, 2018

Just a question for the experts. Are the tines the right way up in Dry Rot picture with the longest prong nearest the grass or does it not matter.

case 5140 · Nov 7, 2018

Dry Rot said:
I picked up a haybob yesterday described as a PZ Haybob Mk II and found a manual for a similar machine on line.

One thing, there is no centre board or what the manual calls a "levelling board" on mine nor can I find one like it on Google images either. I've looked carefully and the only fixing points (if that's what they are) are a couple of holes near the head stock, one blanked off with a bolt and nut that doesn't seem to have any other function. Maybe the manufacturers didn't think it needed one.

Comparing this model with others, the rotors do seem to be closer together and the tines will probably clash occasionally until I can get around to adjusting them.

Any thoughts?

View attachment 735776 View attachment 735778

Its a Lely haymax ,and they dont have a leveling board

Still Farming · Nov 7, 2018

Pz made lots of different varieties.

Jumbo rake with ram on it.
4 small hoop one that could turn big area ,make 1 big row or turn middle section to make 2 rows .
Others also

335d · Nov 7, 2018

renewablejohn said:
Just a question for the experts. Are the tines the right way up in Dry Rot picture with the longest prong nearest the grass or does it not matter.

Yes, longest side with a slight crank is closest to the ground.
I suggest changing all the springs in the tine holders to pull them up to the right position when it’s stopped, or else you’ll bend the tines and break them. There is a knack to it. If you have the knack it’s easy, if not it will take a long time and lots of swearing.

renewablejohn · Nov 7, 2018

335d said:
Yes, longest side with a slight crank is closest to the ground.
I suggest changing all the springs in the tine holders to pull them up to the right position when it’s stopped, or else you’ll bend the tines and break them. There is a knack to it. If you have the knack it’s easy, if not it will take a long time and lots of swearing.

Pleased I asked. Mine has always been the other way up. Has not stopped it working but maybe it could have worked better.

335d · Nov 7, 2018

And of course wide and narrow tines alternatively. Doesn’t look like this one, maybe lely is different

http://www.kuhn.co.uk/internet/pros...EC1257EEE0045FB74/$File/Kuhn_Haybob E07GB.pdf

yellowbelly · Nov 7, 2018

335d said:
I suggest changing all the springs in the tine holders to pull them up to the right position when it’s stopped, or else you’ll bend the tines and break them. There is a knack to it. If you have the knack it’s easy, if not it will take a long time and lots of swearing.

There you go.............

Boohoo · Nov 7, 2018

yellowbelly said:
There you go.............

That's the difficult way, I find the PZ way easier.

Of course the OP has a Lely Hayzip and the springs and method of changing then could be completely different

Haybob design variations?

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