Removing stuck bolt
- Thread starter KennyO
- Start date
I'd guess that if the bolt wasn't properly tightened it's also been bent slightly as well which won't help matters. Personally I'd probably sacrifice a part of the top and bottom bracket which will allow you access to the bolt directly where it goes through the plough beam and also let you heat the area surrounding the bolt more effectively. Depending on how badly worn the hole is in the bracket, butt weld the plate back onto the bracket or if you're feeling really flash get another couple of pieces laser profiled to match what you've cut off?
If still tight after heating, I have in the past welded a couple of pieces of round bar into a T section effectively forming a handle and punch- get someone else to hold the handle (make it long enough so they're well away from the sledge) leaving you free to swing the sledge as hard as you dare. It's surprising what you'll shift doing this!
If still tight after heating, I have in the past welded a couple of pieces of round bar into a T section effectively forming a handle and punch- get someone else to hold the handle (make it long enough so they're well away from the sledge) leaving you free to swing the sledge as hard as you dare. It's surprising what you'll shift doing this!
I am thinking it is more of an alignment problem than a seized bolt, as the plough pivots on this bolt it has worn the centre part forming a lip which allows the centre (beam) to twist slightly from the top & bottom brackets. In which case heat will not help & it can only be driven out if it is aligned up.
bravheart
Member
- Location
- scottish borders
Hi Kenny, been there got that T-Shirt but different colour plough. Turned out the plough frame had a sleeve welded through it and the bolt was waisted and siezed in the sleeve and would never have come out through vari bracket hole.
Managed to jack the plough up to get enough room to cut the bolt and washer through with a hacksaw(blade only), turned plough over and did same again, slip bracket off and welt the bolt as hard as possible, was a two man job with a made up punch c/w handle, ended up cracking sleeve welds and knocking whole lot through.
I could see no easy way but a mag drill with a rotabroach face type milling drill thing would be my go to the next time.
Remember safety goggles etc. if hitting a punch!
Good luck.
towbar
Member
- Location
- Louth, Ireland
Exact same issue here cut the bolt with very fine disc under the bracket each side still couldn't get bolt out so gave up and welded the bracket each side. Will have to revisit some day but it's 5 years now.
towbar
Member
- Location
- Louth, Ireland
do you expect to adjust it frequently? Line it up a 1 inch weld on each side - easy to cut again if needed and less expense as otherwise your also going to have to sort out the bracket now too.
Jetemp
Member
- Location
- North Yorkshire
how long is the part of the bolt that's left in the plough? how steady/how much can you melt away with a gas torch?
- Location
- Darlington
They're a nightmare, easing oil, a good drift and a big hammer, I eoiwo be tempted to keep giving it a sqhrt for 3 or 4 days before trying again. Might also be tempted to knock It back the other way. Ours is just welded solid now, got sick of the bloody things snapping.
towbar
Member
- Location
- Louth, Ireland
We tried soaking for a week with WD40 plough turned each way - made a drift with a long arm and tried standing on top of plough and really going at it with sledge to no avail. We did move it but reckon there was a bend in the bolt even driving it one way and cutting a bit off then driving the other way wouldn't work. I think you do more harm to frame cutting and rewelding bush.
It doesn't take much weld to hold it in place and you can do it where it is easy to cut if needed.
It doesn't take much weld to hold it in place and you can do it where it is easy to cut if needed.
Mursal
Member
If you make a gig to locate the new bolt / bush, using a large enough drill can you drill out the bush with a mg drill? Hire shop will have them. Old weld will drill, slow and steady with coolant. You only have to drill the depth of the beam from both ends, that's if you have the room? New bush and bolt, run of weld, sorted. Well not as easy as that, but you get the idea.
Pretty sure its a full depth bush
Presumably you can cut bush top and bottom , then put bigger bush and pin in ?
Was sitting looking at it tonight thinking i might just weld the bugger up. As noted the holes in the brackets are buggered and was planning on repairing them. @towbar @Renaultman i'm glad you have done it successfully.
Front big bolts have a bit of play too so probably best option. Would have been left at 16" anyway.
Front big bolts have a bit of play too so probably best option. Would have been left at 16" anyway.
- Location
- Lincs / Cambs border
I had the same problem on an old Besson plough , with the gas I carefully cut a 2” square hole in the beam so I could heat the bush all the way though . Once it was well hot it came out with a few good whacks with a big hammer . Welded a good plate over the hole job done .
towbar
Member
- Location
- Louth, Ireland
Bear in mind the bolt is not seized with rust it did move initially about 25mm. In my view the bolt is bent at each end in the bush and will not push through. I don’t think heat will help.