- Location
- Bury St Edmunds
That’s very impressive then.
Triton direct seed drill
- Thread starter R J H
- Start date
That’s very impressive then.
from experience last year there is a limit but its really quite high, we drilled in conditions when we probably should not have
key is the narrow point to create as little disturbance as possible of the wet soil leaving as much stubble rather than soil for the packer to potential pick up
im sure the Triton can go even wetter without a packer but should we really drill into mud ? and at that point how much damage is the tractor doing ?
warksfarmer
Member
warksfarmer
Member
Today started wheat. 300kg/ha. Light loam soil. Into a cover crop due to swapping fields around. Lots of soil movement due to wet soil.
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Really useful pictures, thank you. Hadn't realised the deflector on the back of seeding tines ran level with the ground, but it makes sense when you see it. A picture saves a lot of words!
warksfarmer
Member
I’d lifted it slightly when taking the pic as I was checking air flow but they should run about an inch under the surface.
- Location
- south norfolk
Are you carrying the weight on the tractor as wheels seem clear of the ground.
nick...
nick...
warksfarmer
Member
I generally always run the wheels up to be honest as the Harrow then does a better job. The depth is held on the tail of the seeding blades so the tractor is in float.
warksfarmer
Member
Without doubt yes. That’s why I bought one. Without the closing blades then it’s the same as any other tine drill on the market.
Covering the seed and closing the slot has always been our issue on high Magnesium soils. The Triton does this with ease.
So in effect a very heavy duty set of following times,I presume they hit upon the idea by seeing that the front row of coulters always had the seed covered by the second row
When you say the ‘tail of the blades’, do you mean the extension that the seed drops on to?
warksfarmer
Member
They are blades rather than a tine as on any other drill. One covering blade sits between two seeding tines.
The front seeding tine does a decent job on its own if you can keep forward speed up. However at this time of year when traction can be an issue speed can be a problem so the rear blades come into their own. As I’ve said before it’s a very clever idea not done by anybody else as far as I’m aware.
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warksfarmer
Member
Yes, although you can get long extensions for the rear covering blades as well. There’s a picture floating around on Twitter but I can’t seem to find it unfortunately.
I guess having a hopper on the drill would be too much weight to float like this?
warksfarmer
Member
I always run the hopper on the drill as it only take a minute to drop it off. I’m not keen on front hoppers but we have the option to do it if needed.
warksfarmer
Member
Chopped straw and long stubble is no problem - see attached of chopped straw. It kind of rakes it around to be honest so does a good job.
Cover crops on the green will be it’s limitation and no different to a Horsch or any tine drill. I’m looking to front mount a 3m topper and go direct into mustard next spring as I think that will be the only way it’ll flow. Really though you need a disc drill and not tines.
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from last year very little as long as tractor was not sinking in, if tractor stayed on top no damage was dun. i ran big tiers and the low weight of dill with front tank . this year soil was still friable after drilling in the very wet of last year didn't need flat lifting, only on last years potato land to remedy the damage by potato harvester. was very surprised after harvest not having to flat lift every thing.
Have you drilled any beans with the Triton? I usually use a Claydon to good effect , would assume that the Triton will have similar results - if not better with the narrower spacing.