The oil lubricates the hub bearing though, I wouldn't risk it that far, it will be easier to trailer it home.
Every time you press the foot brake it will activate 4wd and snatch the drive shaft, that could do even more damage.
No need for the axle to come off, but you need to split the UJ in situ to do it that way.
The one I did destroyed the prop so bought a new one and ended up cutting the old one off. Not a bad job, just replace everything, I spent too long trying to save as much as I could before biting the...
Auto pto is not too bad to setup, there used to be all the how to guides on YouTube but I can't find them on my phone, here's one in German it gives you a rough idea
How much! Jesus I can't believe it's gone that expensive, I bought the bits to do my front hopper minus the motor I already had and that was £1700 ish.
Cheapest way would be to convert it to RDS Artemis or similar, all the gubbins on the front hopper then and you only need a cable going back for the tramline valves.
There will be an error code stored in the system, you either need to go through the HH menu or plug a laptop in to see what it is.
You could try and calibrate it but I imagine there's an intermittent sensor fault that likely won't pop up stood still.
You know the manufacturers aren't trying when @Colliedog made a better setup in his farm workshop than all the R&D dept at CNH could put together 😂.
I've even improved the front suspension just by tweaking the pressures, that alone transforms the tractor.
That should never happen 😆 it's either not made right or the wrong ferrule was used. I've seen some belters like that and it's always down to the guy making them, funny enough its the same guy that made the last few that went pop.
If your putting in tramlines especially when starting out, on the tramline pass back right up to the hedge/fence and drive right up on the opposite side. That way if you've ever cocked up or managed to loose the sequence you can look back and work it out to double check.
Also if your leaving...
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