Completely agree but it looks to me as though this is how the tractor came out of the factory! Unless there has been additional work done since that I’m not noticing
I was thinking of doing that alright. Still seems odd that this is how it was sent out of the factory with such a high draw on 1 fuse? New LED lamps sometime look out of place on an older machine too but better than having a fire!
Hi,
The 4 top front work lamps and 2 top rear cab work lamps are all coming back through 1 fuse. From what I can see in the schematic this seems correct but I have melted a couple of 25 amp fuses. That’s 6 x 55w bulbs which equates to roughly 25 amps. Seems like a lot of current to be sending...
One other thing to note is that if I start the tractor with the hand throttle pushed forward it will rev up ok. I can vary the revs as normal until I bring the throttle back below the 1100 mark or so where it is limping at. Then the symptoms described above return.
Hi all, my MC135 revs to around 1100 when you touch the throttle and then sticks at this rev. When you move the throttle then the management warning light comes on the dash and then goes off when you release the throttle. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks
One other thing is that the fuel stop fuse was blown. Not sure how this fits into the whole picture. It seems I had a bit of an issue previously and now it won’t start at all but if the fuse was blown this long time then it wouldn’t start at any stage I would have thought? Does this mean...
Hi again lads, since I last posted nothing much changed. My MC135 has been hard to start regularly as though air is getting into the system somehow. It would turn and turn and then some white smoke, then it would fire. No issue then for the rest of the day for example. The problem is that...
Had to grind down a socket to allow me grab enough of the nut to remove it. Swapped the valve and solenoid and seems to have eliminated the problem. Thanks for the help and suggestions
Sorry, was having a bit of a blonde moment. My socket had too much of a chamfer on it so wasn’t catching the nut. I’ve a feeling the coil is ok because it is creating a sufficient magnetic field to hold a safety pin to the end of the solenoid valve. I’ll try swapping the 2 solenoids tomorrow...
Apologies for the amateur questions but I don’t seem to have enough of the holding nut clear to take off the solenoid, is that normal?
Just checked and there is 14 volts at the solenoid when the tractor is switched to 2wd. Staying in 4wd mechanically however. Just another note is that the...
The back story to this is I left my MC135 to get some work done on the hitch which involved welding the back end and now that I have it back it is stuck in 4wd. The 4wd light is coming on as normal with the switch / when the brake pedal is pressed but it seems to be stuck in 4wd all the time...
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