Recent content by Zetor

I’ve had this before on a Perkins powered massy it also had loud chattering gear noise over 1500 rpm it eventually turned out to be the front pulley it had some sort of balancer in it that had failed, probably different on the Deere but the symptoms were the same

No it’s fine, I was hoping they was an easier way Thanks anyway

is there an easy way to change the arm on this rake ? thanks

I have a Cummins 6bt with a wagon gearbox attached, easy attach a pto stub and select your own speed £700

Keep an eye on your final drive oil on those 101’s parts are becoming obsolete

If it’s not a common rail one it will be the same. Water pumps let go at about 8-10,000hrs and that’s the only time you’ll ever put a spanner on them.

Case all day long for grading the jcb is almost as good but not quite as reliable, as for the Volvo I’ll sell you mine but it won’t be available for a couple of months (140b)

I disagree, the running costs of older 13ton machines is small, I have 5 of them in work of various makes for example 2 new track motors for a cx130 was £1800 each, not worth repairing the old ones that’s probably the biggest cost I’ve had in years and I’ve only had 1 pump let go about 8 years...

At that budget I would go pre 2008 the all analog engine is bomb proof, early common rail can suffer overheating causing head problems

Wow what age is that? I can’t get anywhere near that figure with any of mine

What he says 👆 Had a dump trailer with these Agri brakes we could almost knock a set of shoes out in a day, we ended up building the cams up with weld to stop them going over centre this kept it going until I could afford one with commercial axles which are in a different league.

Looks like Gardner engine starters, there’s a FB page you could ask there

Don’t even consider anything cheap they don’t work I wear the t shirt!! You’ll waste a heap of money and time. your cheapest source of renewable electricity is solar, is it possible to utilise the freezers as a battery by making them work hard enough during the day so they can be switched off at...

The stop solenoid has a “pull” and a “hold” coil the hold coil holds it in run position and needs a + feed from the ignition. The pull coil only gets power for about a second or two when the key is in start this is just enough to move the solenoid into “run” position. If the hold coil has failed...

Think it’s the bottom left if the cab is at the top of the picture, hand brake has a sensor that activates 4wd, it needs power to the solenoid disengage