wilt434
Member
- Location
- North Wales
Can anyone tell me what's the advantage of having a sliding headstock?
Project X
- Thread starter spindle
- Start date
During the course of a match your plough will need to sit in several different locations on the cross shaft.
Some people prefer to use fewer locations, favouring winding the cross shift with the furrow width adjuster, others quite a few. It is far easier just to wind a handle than slacken clamp bolts and knock the shaft into place manually.
I am an engineer - I like to make things easier.
As with all things - the easier it is - the more you will tend to use it!
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
He certainly does know his stuff about ploughs but he also knows his stuff about the extras like quick entry top links etc. That quick release thing for the right hand drop down bar I bought off him is a hell of tool!!
rick_vandal
Member
- Location
- Soft South
With old skool trailer ploughs, you could hitch and shift in a choice of draught lines, but when mounted, the side movement becomes limited. Chopping the frame enables the plough to move to the left along the cross-shaft so that you can take a single furrow prior to the finish (and show a double wheeling). Now, I can move my plough 12" to the right and take a single furrow whenever I fancy and have two fingers to prove it!
rick_vandal
Member
- Location
- Soft South
Please consider putting a depth wheel just behind and beside the front leg. Being right at the centre, it is less effected by pitch and tilt adjustments, nor does the wheelmark show in the Finish. I use a ride-on mower rear wheel and pneumatic tyre.
Last edited:
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
have you any pictures of this
Tonym
Member
- Location
- Shropshire
I feel that having the wheel in line with the rear share on the outside has got to be the best place for the wheel. By supporting the rear of the plough and the land side it tightens up the linkage and prevents rocking for and aft and side to side.
Why is a wheel mark on the finish a problem? Surely the rules allow for ONE wheel mark or do you get extra marks for none? Also you cannot get rid of the tractor wheel mark so as long as the plough follows that what is the problem.
Also you cannot use a marker disc which I find to be a great help on your type of wheel.
Why is a wheel mark on the finish a problem? Surely the rules allow for ONE wheel mark or do you get extra marks for none? Also you cannot get rid of the tractor wheel mark so as long as the plough follows that what is the problem.
Also you cannot use a marker disc which I find to be a great help on your type of wheel.
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
Must be tight for space if using a disc?????
rick_vandal
Member
- Location
- Soft South
Does a marker disc count as tramlining especially since there is a more distinct mark for the right hand tractor wheel? Your depth wheel has to be far off to the left and run on ploughed land for the last run. Mine gives precise depth at the critical moment and I like to think outside the box (it might be a coffin!).
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
As has been pointed out here before, a wheel in the middle of the frame acts as a pivot, Alter you're top link and the difference is doubled as each body moves different ways.
I have often thought about altering ploughs almost every way possible and always come back to one conclusion.
If whatever I am Thinking about doing was such a good idea, then it would have been thought of by others long before me, and probably done by some of the top men in the area.
There's a reason that most folks ploughs are basically the same, it's because it's an idea that works.no point trying to reinvent the wheel when hundreds of others can make it work!!!!!!!!!'
I have often thought about altering ploughs almost every way possible and always come back to one conclusion.
If whatever I am Thinking about doing was such a good idea, then it would have been thought of by others long before me, and probably done by some of the top men in the area.
There's a reason that most folks ploughs are basically the same, it's because it's an idea that works.no point trying to reinvent the wheel when hundreds of others can make it work!!!!!!!!!'
Well, my landwheels run under the plough, in line with the rear furrow, and the rocking beam pivot is just behind the headstock. the plough does not rock back and forth, the tight linkage pivots see to that, and the marker wheel does a bit too. I have no plough wheel mark in the finish, as the rocking beam is locked with the front wheel lifted, and the rear runs in the furrow bottom, just in front of the rear share.I have always arranged the single landwheels on my mounted ploughs to turn under the plough, KV style for opening and finishing. On my TS 86 the wheel could be turned in without the use of tools, the repositioning of two pins being the only work required.
It is my opinion, for what its worth, that the land wheels are a depth and surface sensor, and as such need to be sensing those in the area the plough actually is, not the area it will be in in a quarter of an hours time!
One other thing, if using a pneumatic land wheel, do remember to check the pressure every time you go out, a few pounds low, and all your notes re depth dont seem to work any more!
It is my opinion, for what its worth, that the land wheels are a depth and surface sensor, and as such need to be sensing those in the area the plough actually is, not the area it will be in in a quarter of an hours time!
One other thing, if using a pneumatic land wheel, do remember to check the pressure every time you go out, a few pounds low, and all your notes re depth dont seem to work any more!