Ibc of trace elements

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Interested to know what others are buying for trace elements. Main element needed is manganese. Have just finished a Ibc of 15% pro leaf manganese. Have been adding copper separately as straight. Is it worth paying the extra for something that contains N?

A lot of customers I spray for use yara mancuflo which seems to be a good product if not too keen to leave tin.
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
I buy IBCs of manganese and magnesium. I've yet to find a way of getting copper cheaply other than Mancuflo which as you say, doesn't come out of the can. Headland Brock is just as bad.

What straight do you use and how easy is it to get in the hopper?
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
is copper sulphate not readily available as its so poisonous? Or am I mis remembering my chemistry? Very easily dissolved too from what I remember.
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
I buy IBCs of manganese and magnesium. I've yet to find a way of getting copper cheaply other than Mancuflo which as you say, doesn't come out of the can. Headland Brock is just as bad.

What straight do you use and how easy is it to get in the hopper?

It's chelated copper. It's blue. It's very easy to get in hopper. Runs like water.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
How do you add AN directly?

Dissolve some ammonium nitrate in the tank. Chuck it in the induction bowl.

I've also sucked in some liquid N 30 I think it was. Gives the crop a bit of a boost. No more than 3 kg per ha or you'll scorch it.

I think the crop is often crying out for N equally as much as manganese at this time of year, particularly in light sand.
 

robbie

Member
BASIS
I use ibc's of mn and 205 lt drums of mag for t1 and t2. I use opte cu and verdi zinc in 5 and 10lt cans , I'm not sure what other or cheaper options there are.

I've tried the chuck 3 kg/ha of AN in the induction bowl method with Mn and I think it works great and really perks things up, I'm planning to use some MOP disolved in the tank this year at stem extention I'm just a bit unsure what it'll be like in a tank mix.

@DrWazzock have you had any experience of tank mixing fungicides with MOP?
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
With copper I always get on a lot better with copper oxychloride, bought as a powder in 25 kg bag. It mixes well with magnesium and manganese sulphate. Cuprokylt or something.

I always add the ammonium nitrate to the spray water first and it hasn't blown up yet, though it does warm up a bit, adding copper next then mag and manganese sulphate. And some activator 90 last. Each is about 3 kg per ha in 200 litres.

I have had loads of trouble with copper oxide (red liquid). Always seems to drop out and block up.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
I've never tried MOP. Somebody once told me it protects against blight to some extent. I never thought I'd get enough on as a spray without burning it. But I've never actually tried so can't say.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Yes, MOP is muriate of potash or potassium chloride. I would imagine it would burn the foliage like salt (sodium chloride) does.

Somebody who knows a lot more than I do once told me that very small doses of foliar MOP sprayed onto potatoes helped protect from blight, but would burn them if the dose was too high. I think they were trialling it in Israel.

I have sprayed foliar K (potash) onto beet, but it didn't make any difference. I think you just can't enough K on the leaves to do any good, whereas just a small amount of foliar nitrogen gives the plant a live saving boost at this time of year. We aren't allowed to apply N at this time of year though. I wouldn't want to put any solid on, but can't see the harm in a foliar spray that amounts to maybe a Kg N per ha. Really does green the barley up nicely, I'd put some on ..... if I could travel without making a mess. Not much rain, but never dries up on top here. Constant drizzle and fog.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Sodium chlorate is a very good non selective herbicide! It also goes bang if you know how to prepare it...

It certainly isn't a plant nutrient anyway.

I've never been a fan of nutrients in IBCs. I can get as much water as I need out of the tap.

Buy nutrients as solids. Get more for your money. Just need to find a mixing sequence that doesn't precipitate out, and stick to it.

For copper, I get Cuprokylt (IIRC) in a bag, marketed as a fungicide. It also comes in a 5 l can. The bag is more money up front but lasts a long time for the small amounts needed. Mixes well, and you notice the colour change to clear when the manganese sulphate goes in.

Ammonium nitrate in first as its a also a useful acid ire, then copper in then magnesium, then manganese, both as solid sulphate, then activator 90, if you are not adding fungicides or something, plenty of agitation and recirc while adding the solids and bobs your uncle,

About 3kg ammonium nitrate , 1 kg per ha of the Cuprokylt powder, 2.5 kg magnesium sulphate, 5 kg manganese sulphate if it's bad, wetter as per label.

This isn't a recommendation. Just what I've found by trial and error.
 

robbie

Member
BASIS
I remember a simular thread where people were debating tissue analysis and the subject of foliar applied potash came up, someone said they were predisolving MOP and adding it to the tank. Perhaps @static can help.
 

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