MF 35

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Recently purchased a late 35 with optional diff lock. Few jobs to do and looking for some advice. Can I remove the rear trumpet housings with half shafts intact as need to replace lower link pins. I believe you only need to remove the left hand side to do this but diff lock shaft seized so right hand will be coming off as well. TIA David
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
thinking of doing one side at a time so other half shaft should support diff?? Just need a bit of reassurance about r/h side now that nothing related to diff lock will fall out.
 

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
Would be wise to do one side at a time, if nothing else keep the tractor safer and easier to jack
I made the mistake of not changing the pins when mine was apart , so I just built them up with welder
 
Take left hand trumpet off just simply unbolts
Then remove diff that just lifts out then you can get to the right hand side pin with out remvoing right hand trumpet
 
thinking of doing one side at a time so other half shaft should support diff?? Just need a bit of reassurance about r/h side now that nothing related to diff lock will fall out.
Diff lock just stays on the half shaft with splines it should just sit there as you take diff out.
 
He needs to remove the rhs to free the diff lock shaft..........
Oh yes missed that duh hahahah

Even so straight forward job nothing to worry about really other than 1st i would check the outer wheel bearings for play when the wheels are still on, and remove a shim if there is
play
Other than that clean up well where gaskets go and jobs a good un.
Have fun we are here to help
 

Mursal

Member
Would a small bit of heat be worthwhile on the casing before taking the RH side off to free the diff lock?
Think there are 4 bolts to take off the diff lock pedal casing/assembly and then you can see the shaft that works the lock.
A bit of heat where it runs through the casing might be worthwhile, a prize bar will help you work the shaft while heating.
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Would a small bit of heat be worthwhile on the casing before taking the RH side off to free the diff lock?
Think there are 4 bolts to take off the diff lock pedal casing/assembly and then you can see the shaft that works the lock.
A bit of heat where it runs through the casing might be worthwhile, a prize bar will help you work the shaft while heating.
Was reading somewhere else and someone said not to heat as would damage a seal. Haven't studied it in any detail just got loader frame safety frame and mudguards off ready to start.
 

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
One last question when re-assembling can I just use the sealant we used to use for sticking case mx's back together for sealing trumpets? Think off the top of my head was maybe loctite 515!
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
David,
there is a gasket on each side of the trumpet housing, if you only take one side off you will need 1 new gasket to keep the pre load on the half shaft bearings, how ever, if you check for end float before taking the half shaft out,, yes i know its hard to do, but try your best, now if there is no end play you could take a shim out the same sort of thickness as the gasket, this way it will still have the same pre load on bearings, when i do them even if there is no sign of play, i like to take out a very thin shim, as if it is old it will have worn a little bit, but the original bearing will be Timkin, and they dont make them now like it was when they were made, remember that bearing is greased and does not run in backend oil, so clean and renew the grease, best to do both sides

john
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
David,
there is a gasket on each side of the trumpet housing, if you only take one side off you will need 1 new gasket to keep the pre load on the half shaft bearings, how ever, if you check for end float before taking the half shaft out,, yes i know its hard to do, but try your best, now if there is no end play you could take a shim out the same sort of thickness as the gasket, this way it will still have the same pre load on bearings, when i do them even if there is no sign of play, i like to take out a very thin shim, as if it is old it will have worn a little bit, but the original bearing will be Timkin, and they dont make them now like it was when they were made, remember that bearing is greased and does not run in backend oil, so clean and renew the grease, best to do both sides

john


edit, no gasket will affect the pre load on the diff as well,
 

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