Impact driver for tek screws

Steevo · Apr 17, 2017

Got an 18v Makita impact driver with Tek mode here. Upgraded from a cordless drill to get more power. As above still find it hard getting started (needs a hammer start mode!) so sometimes end up drilling a small hole first. Easier on roof sheets than verticals too as you can put more force behind it.

ewald · Apr 17, 2017

Thanks for the replies - I want to avoid a centre punch as working off a ladder most of the time (I run out of pockets!). Prefer cordless - don't like extension cables everywhere.
Looks as though best bet is a small hex drive impact driver

v8willy · Apr 17, 2017

I use a cordless drill always have done.....was doing some recently off a very straight ladder due to being very close to existing shed & couldn't get any pressure on drill to go through sheet, but new drill has hammer action so tried it & it worked a treat

Paddington · Apr 17, 2017

How about using a 3mm drill to drill pilot holes ? Bit of a faff swopping bits over but cheaper than an impact driver.

suffolksmallholder · Apr 17, 2017

You've two sorts of tek screws, One type for 'into wood' & the self drilling stitchers, the coloured caps, the centre punch (if you want) & the driver or in your case the drill with the 8mm or star head driving bit.
Fiddle diddle in whichever pockets. Consider this utility belt which I regard as an indespensable part of my roofing kit....https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Power-Ha...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K588N6876QWH1QMWRQFG £10 plus a bit of postage. I use the metal rings for hooking my driver to and in your case you can hook the drill if it has a hook. No more running up & down the ladder & everything to hand. Job goes quickly then

SS

MickMoor · Apr 18, 2017

simon-0116 said:
Or a tek screw gun [emoji1]

What a waste of money!

MickMoor · Apr 18, 2017

In the bad old days when I worked off a ladder, I used to drill all the holes at 5mm in the stack. It happens to look nice and neat with them all in a straight line. You do have to work it out first. Even stitchers, which really do line up from almost any angle.

Steevo · Apr 18, 2017

MickMoor said:
In the bad old days when I worked off a ladder, I used to drill all the holes at 5mm in the stack. It happens to look nice and neat with them all in a straight line. You do have to work it out first. Even stitchers, which really do line up from almost any angle.

Fixing in a straight line, and all the same distance apart always looks smart. Shows someone who takes pride in their job.

dannewhouse · Apr 18, 2017

RWG Contracts said:
I just use a drill, battery doesn't last as long on an impacted and due to my level of laziness I can't be bothered changing them.

If you put your screw against the sheet, start the drill and give your drive a light tap on the the back they get started faster (yes I know it's rough)

I always find our impact driver (just the 1/4 inch type) out lasts the drill by a fare way on any screw/fixings type work?
mines Hitachi 5ah batteries

I feel anyone's pain with metal sheets! far too many fixings but if its says you got to put them in I suppose you should!

I found the best way was impact driver ideally in a position where you can apply a fare bit of pressure with the 1 hand while other holds fixing straight. absolute pain in the arse if working off a ladder especially if too straight or near the top. my stitching screws had the drill type end like for Z purlins but the normal just had a slit, the stitching screws were easier but on the whole the slit type were faster if you could apply pressure if you couldn't pain in the arse! as said screws dropping and you hitting the sheet with driver etc.

joe soapy · Aug 24, 2018

MickMoor said:
In the bad old days when I worked off a ladder, I used to drill all the holes at 5mm in the stack. It happens to look nice and neat with them all in a straight line. You do have to work it out first. Even stitchers, which really do line up from almost any angle.

ha, back in 1980 when i did the sheep shed, we got an army building made out of 3 inch pipe purlins and all, took 2 days and much questioning of parantage to get first 3 sheets up.
called a halt,to that. then dad went off on holiday, i had a fresh look with out allthe shouting, made sure the last sheet was more or less right and brought it back down
and lait it on top of the 32 sheets for the first pitch and drilled the lot with the black and decker we got from dads coupons from kensitas fags, job went like clockwork
was first time we used the dormer drills with the silver band on them

joe soapy · Aug 25, 2018

think that drill started my tool addiction. think they was £6 to buy back then,
yesterday i got a new hammer drill with 1/2 chuck instead of 5/16 cost £19.99 ex vat

Andrew · Aug 25, 2018

ewald said:
Thanks for the replies - I want to avoid a centre punch as working off a ladder most of the time (I run out of pockets!). Prefer cordless - don't like extension cables everywhere.
Looks as though best bet is a small hex drive impact driver

Get a set of these, use mine a lot on smaller stuff.

https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/p...&ved=0ahUKEwiL976n8ofdAhXBcsAKHf9IDpgQgjYIxQQ

dannewhouse · Aug 25, 2018

Andrew said:
Get a set of these, use mine a lot on smaller stuff.

https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/p...&ved=0ahUKEwiL976n8ofdAhXBcsAKHf9IDpgQgjYIxQQ

I sheared 1 of them off, twas undoing 12mm rusty bolts mind …
the 8mm? ready made ones are best for tek screws rather than having a socket on end but they are good if you don't know what size/ don't work with same size all time.

v8willy · Aug 25, 2018

dannewhouse said:
I sheared 1 of them off, twas undoing 12mm rusty bolts mind …
the 8mm? ready made ones are best for tek screws rather than having a socket on end but they are good if you don't know what size/ don't work with same size all time.

Or you can use a bolt with an allen type head, can't mind the size tho.

Andrew · Aug 25, 2018

dannewhouse said:
I sheared 1 of them off, twas undoing 12mm rusty bolts mind …
the 8mm? ready made ones are best for tek screws rather than having a socket on end but they are good if you don't know what size/ don't work with same size all time.

Definitely the tek srew ones are best, I meant just to get more use with the tool after the roofing job was finished. Find they’re really good for things like in cab work, trim, steering columns etc.

michael N123 · Aug 25, 2018

suffolksmallholder said:
I have the metal spike from a plastic electric fence post, sharpened to a nice point that I use to spike a hole, like using a centre punch. One tap, done. I found that this is far more effective than 'going-for-it' with the driver where slips & misses result in damage to the plastisol coating the tek screw sliding off the roof. This works well for the stitching screws as well.
SS

Well done you’ve made a 6inch nail

joe soapy · Aug 25, 2018

dannewhouse said:
I sheared 1 of them off, twas undoing 12mm rusty bolts mind …
the 8mm? ready made ones are best for tek screws rather than having a socket on end but they are good if you don't know what size/ don't work with same size all time.

thats crap, get an allen screw, the right size, local machine shop gave me 3 out of the scrap bin, course i usually dont wear collar and tie when shopping,
they usually charge what the market will bear, especialy if you drive up in the merc.
had to laugh, bloke turned up in a porsch, paid £50 for 5" special" bolts, i seen him pull they out the scrap bin to

joe soapy · Aug 25, 2018

michael N123 said:
Well done you’ve made a 6inch nail

hell, they all coming out this morning

dannewhouse · Aug 25, 2018

joe soapy said:
thats crap, get an allen screw, the right size, local machine shop gave me 3 out of the scrap bin, course i usually dont wear collar and tie when shopping,
they usually charge what the market will bear, especialy if you drive up in the merc.
had to laugh, bloke turned up in a porsch, paid £50 for 5" special" bolts, i seen him pull they out the scrap bin to

cant put them in impact drivers as don't have a chuck, they just have 1/4 hex drive

ACEngineering · Aug 26, 2018

ewald said:
I have a roofing job coming up, using steel sheets onto wooden purlins with wood teks. Previously I have used a standard cordless drill - does the job, but initial hole through the tin is difficult. Would an impact driver be better? There seem to be two types - 6mm hex drive or 1/2 inch socket drive - which do I need? Assuming the socket drive is better suited for workshop use (but it would be more useful afterwards). The small hex drive wouldn't get used for any other job.

I have a milwaukee 6mm hex impact. Its an old style one now but i think its great. Really good on all screws. Bought it with a drill in a pack. I also have a 1/4 and 3/8 drive adaptor for it so i can use small sockets on it ideal for taking panels off machines etc the newer versions are way better having more torque and 4 torque settings.

Impact driver for tek screws

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