J B
Member
- Location
- Shrops/Staffs/Cheshire borders
Not quite
Most things are zero rated and several things you can reclaim (but only in one 'hit') once the project is completed!!
https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/overview
Building a dwelling house on the farm ...
- Thread starter Happy at it
- Start date
Not quite
Most things are zero rated and several things you can reclaim (but only in one 'hit') once the project is completed!!
https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/overview
24/7 farming
Member
- Location
- Donegal
Started our new build last August, 2500sqft, was hell bent on self build but ran into a local builder at a building expo and ended up with him running the build. On reflection we would be nowhere near where we are now without his experience of the trades, sourcing of materials, organising deliveries, programming work, etc, not a hope I could have done it as efficiently while trying to keep farm ticking over and with a full time job!!
Electricians back next week to hook power up and get heating up n running!
9 months in....
Electricians back next week to hook power up and get heating up n running!
9 months in....
When you do all the building yourself, you need the Completion certificate to be sent in with, the once and for all VAT reclaim (I am reputable
).2wheels
Member
- Location
- aberdeenshire
not me, someone close though. they paid builder at finish, everything looked good but building control said a couple of things not right. cost them about 1k to rectify and a lot of hassle as original builder went bust. all good now.
It will come down to a few factors.
Builders on a price will try to keep there profit intact, at your expense, but will shop around to make your money stretch, if they are any good.
Even if you have time for nothing more you could buy the materials, which if you put some effort in can bring a lot of savings but will force you to claim the vat back yourself. If your builder hasn't got an account with the supplier you do the deal with.
I will give you just one example, I needed £2500 worth of catnik lintels that was the price via my builder for my house, after ringing around I got them for £1800.
A builder often just uses there builders account they get discounts but so did I, but only by ringing around can you make large savings.
It was the same for every large ticket item,
If the design is simple using standard materials then any good bricklayer can get your shell up.
Then come the tricky part first, second fix, and finishes.
If your time is valuable then put it out to trades either one main contractor or builder to do the job or use the trades.
If you have time for nothing else shopping around for the big ticket items is worth it.
Next is be onsite as often as possible the one thing any builder will do is doing it there way.... if no one is on hand to ask, this is often the quickest way, often not how you would have done it......
Half your problems can be headed off with good drawings that include electrical outlets tv points, wired Lan (which I recommend)
You can get 16 way tv boosters which makes changing your mind late in the day on layouts far less painful. They can with a single wire deliver tv and satellite and radio signals, http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-tv-fm-2-satellite-quadruplex-grid-module-white/31768
Wired LAN Cat 6 is also a good time investment, and can run your internet tv and sky boxes. Without crippling your wifi. I did all my own it's not hard.
Finally time, if you want it done quick then main contractor or builder that will run the site is often the quickest way, but you may end up compromising more often than you like and things like the air tightness test will be a struggle to pass with anything better than just a just pass....
If your not in a rush you can save your self a lot of money and take your time at critical moments like just before plaster to be happy you have everything right all the sockets in the right place.
Builders on a price will try to keep there profit intact, at your expense, but will shop around to make your money stretch, if they are any good.
Even if you have time for nothing more you could buy the materials, which if you put some effort in can bring a lot of savings but will force you to claim the vat back yourself. If your builder hasn't got an account with the supplier you do the deal with.
I will give you just one example, I needed £2500 worth of catnik lintels that was the price via my builder for my house, after ringing around I got them for £1800.
A builder often just uses there builders account they get discounts but so did I, but only by ringing around can you make large savings.
It was the same for every large ticket item,
If the design is simple using standard materials then any good bricklayer can get your shell up.
Then come the tricky part first, second fix, and finishes.
If your time is valuable then put it out to trades either one main contractor or builder to do the job or use the trades.
If you have time for nothing else shopping around for the big ticket items is worth it.
Next is be onsite as often as possible the one thing any builder will do is doing it there way.... if no one is on hand to ask, this is often the quickest way, often not how you would have done it......
Half your problems can be headed off with good drawings that include electrical outlets tv points, wired Lan (which I recommend)
You can get 16 way tv boosters which makes changing your mind late in the day on layouts far less painful. They can with a single wire deliver tv and satellite and radio signals, http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-tv-fm-2-satellite-quadruplex-grid-module-white/31768
Wired LAN Cat 6 is also a good time investment, and can run your internet tv and sky boxes. Without crippling your wifi. I did all my own it's not hard.
Finally time, if you want it done quick then main contractor or builder that will run the site is often the quickest way, but you may end up compromising more often than you like and things like the air tightness test will be a struggle to pass with anything better than just a just pass....
If your not in a rush you can save your self a lot of money and take your time at critical moments like just before plaster to be happy you have everything right all the sockets in the right place.
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I had a VAT inspection after I had finished building our place, said ''I can see you haven't reclaimed on any thing you shouldn't have'' she was sat in a room with no carpets or curtains and little heating!Not quite
Most things are zero rated and several things you can reclaim (but only in one 'hit') once the project is completed!!
https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/overview
I will add the small stuff can also cost a lot a 2.5kg bag of galvanised 100mm nails from my builders merchants one day when the builder needed them quick to Finnish a job, £25 quid. a 25kg box from my wood supplier £50 for exactly the same product......builders suppliers earn money from people in a rush.......be organised ask the builder what he needs can often give you time to order online from screwfix and the like which can save lots of money.
Screws, nails, sealers, expanding foam, drainage pipe work, pipe insulation, can catch your builder out as they just grab them without asking a price.
Tip for anyone trying for an air tight house go tradition plaster Finnish. The cost saving in your heating bills is worth the effort for airtight.
It's quite possible to get a very well insulated house from traditional brick and block just up the cavity wall width I did 200mm with Ancon TeploTie wall ties. Then blown EPS after it was built from the inside as cavity fill. The problem with kingsman and rock wool is if it gets wet or is put in badly it's not worth anything. If it gets wet it never drys out as there is no air movement in the cavity to do so.
Screws, nails, sealers, expanding foam, drainage pipe work, pipe insulation, can catch your builder out as they just grab them without asking a price.
Tip for anyone trying for an air tight house go tradition plaster Finnish. The cost saving in your heating bills is worth the effort for airtight.
It's quite possible to get a very well insulated house from traditional brick and block just up the cavity wall width I did 200mm with Ancon TeploTie wall ties. Then blown EPS after it was built from the inside as cavity fill. The problem with kingsman and rock wool is if it gets wet or is put in badly it's not worth anything. If it gets wet it never drys out as there is no air movement in the cavity to do so.
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I built our Bungalow and further extension, started in 1987, connected the septic tank the morning I got married in1988, and still going, but very satisfying to say I built our home, I thought it was cheaper and more reliable to use contractors for work on the farm, than to employ a builder, took one look at them all hanging around with plastic coffee and their arses hanging out of their joggers in Sharp and Twisters, when they should be on a job, to think not for me I'll do it myself.
- Location
- South Wales UK
They usually double up on items,and bit on top.
Most are on £100 -£150 day labour so you could do that if free time or think your not on that type of wage yourself ?
Lots of savings out there .
Most are on £100 -£150 day labour so you could do that if free time or think your not on that type of wage yourself ?
Lots of savings out there .
Farfrae
Member
- Location
- Pontargothi, Carmarthenshire
My thoughts.
Which ever way you do it (I employed a main contractor) you can't do too much planning.
Get proper plans done and a schedule of work that nails everything down. It'll cost more upfront but can save big problems down the line. As a silly example work out exactly how many electric sockets the wife wants above the kitchen worksurfaces etc. (then add some more - they are cheap at this stage and expensive later) in advance and where the cooker feed needs to be. Think about wasted areas that can easily be converted to storeage; you can never have too much.
Changing your mind later adds to the price and stress. Every change later is an opportunity for an argument to break out over what was included in the price and what wasn't and how much extra it's going to cost.
Think about all the small things that make a difference; i.e. running ducting down walls and through floors to hide TV cables or to pull ethernet cable through to wire up the house (even if you may not need it now).
It's better to pay a tad more for somethings like (and I'm a big fan) timber windows with coated aluminium cladding so that you reduce future painting/maintaining windows! Such as
http://www.rationel.co.uk/windows-doors/timber-aluminium-windows-and-doors
If it's on the farm you need a bloody good porch/dirty area to change clothes and retain domestic harmony.
And over specify the insulation; money well spent.
Which ever way you do it (I employed a main contractor) you can't do too much planning.
Get proper plans done and a schedule of work that nails everything down. It'll cost more upfront but can save big problems down the line. As a silly example work out exactly how many electric sockets the wife wants above the kitchen worksurfaces etc. (then add some more - they are cheap at this stage and expensive later) in advance and where the cooker feed needs to be. Think about wasted areas that can easily be converted to storeage; you can never have too much.
Changing your mind later adds to the price and stress. Every change later is an opportunity for an argument to break out over what was included in the price and what wasn't and how much extra it's going to cost.
Think about all the small things that make a difference; i.e. running ducting down walls and through floors to hide TV cables or to pull ethernet cable through to wire up the house (even if you may not need it now).
It's better to pay a tad more for somethings like (and I'm a big fan) timber windows with coated aluminium cladding so that you reduce future painting/maintaining windows! Such as
http://www.rationel.co.uk/windows-doors/timber-aluminium-windows-and-doors
If it's on the farm you need a bloody good porch/dirty area to change clothes and retain domestic harmony.
And over specify the insulation; money well spent.
suffolksmallholder
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
Some nitty gritty points.
Big + on the porch area, think how many coats do you have? Allow for a wet coat area perhaps with a rad under. Airing cupboard upstairs. Check out the water pressure so an early decision can be made for either tank or mains pressure system. Gravity is more reliable but sizing the pipework for good flows is important. If you have a very long run to a hot tap consider a loop with a pump for instant hot rather than waiting & running off unnecessary amounts of water before it gets hot.
A good sized utility room.
Kitchens are often too big with the cooker & sink on opposite walls requiring much walking to & fro. Good air extraction over the cooker so use an outside wall. Ducting is ok but gets full of grease.
Underfloor heating in any way shape or form & no heating upstairs, takes courage but with over-spec insulation heat rises and even in the coldest depths of winter heat will rise.
Duct two underfloor vents for the living room fire, from opposite directions, be it open or boxed then any cold air is where it needs to be & not blowing through your living space.
Solar hot water is the best & it brings the sun into the house in more ways than folk imagine, particularly in February! So house orientation on solar rather than compass North is best.
Try & build something pleasant to look at!
SS
Big + on the porch area, think how many coats do you have? Allow for a wet coat area perhaps with a rad under. Airing cupboard upstairs. Check out the water pressure so an early decision can be made for either tank or mains pressure system. Gravity is more reliable but sizing the pipework for good flows is important. If you have a very long run to a hot tap consider a loop with a pump for instant hot rather than waiting & running off unnecessary amounts of water before it gets hot.
A good sized utility room.
Kitchens are often too big with the cooker & sink on opposite walls requiring much walking to & fro. Good air extraction over the cooker so use an outside wall. Ducting is ok but gets full of grease.
Underfloor heating in any way shape or form & no heating upstairs, takes courage but with over-spec insulation heat rises and even in the coldest depths of winter heat will rise.
Duct two underfloor vents for the living room fire, from opposite directions, be it open or boxed then any cold air is where it needs to be & not blowing through your living space.
Solar hot water is the best & it brings the sun into the house in more ways than folk imagine, particularly in February! So house orientation on solar rather than compass North is best.
Try & build something pleasant to look at!
SS
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Courier
Member
- Location
- M62 - M1 - M18 triangle
Quantity surveyor cousin's wise words " Remember that the construction industry thrives on conflict and house building is no different".
ollandroverman
Member
- Location
- nr Kendal (The Lake District)
Construction/ building and the people encompassed within, are best described as a very broad church.
Just as in farming.
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Ye , you have to pay it and claim it back , so on a 200k build you get 40k back once it's finished , that's 40 k you could have spent on the house, or 40k less to borrow if a builder had been used , Also nhbc certification isn't possible if you do it yourself , which is a problem For selling as lenders no longer accept architects supervision certificatesWhen you do all the building yourself, you need the Completion certificate to be sent in with, the once and for all VAT reclaim (I am reputable
One thing I have never regretted was creating lamps circuit in 4 rooms this is a 5a ring which uses small round pin plugs outlets connected to a normal wall light switch. The plugs are small to avoid people trying to run large appliances from what is a lightings ring. They were just connected to normal wall light switches, so you can turn all the lamps in the room off in one go. It also makes sense to put a dimmer on this circuit as well, just watch your max loads if your using low energy dimmable light bulbs there is little risk. http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-5a-1-gang-round-pin-unswitched-plug-socket-white/11412
You will need to change the plugs on your lamps but once done your good to go. You can turn 4 or more lamps on or off in one go.
You will need to change the plugs on your lamps but once done your good to go. You can turn 4 or more lamps on or off in one go.
SRRC
Member
- Location
- West Somerset
Get it designed by a talented professional! Probably architect.
Do not let a builder design it! You will regret it for evermore.
Do not let a builder design it! You will regret it for evermore.
I'd agree , will cost you more to build . But will look and function better , there are sh!t architects too though
Grassman
Member
- Location
- Derbyshire
I have just nearly finished building a new bungalow after demolishing an old farmhouse.
Lots of mistakes along the way.
I did demolition and foundations. I provided materials and did all telehandler shifting and lifting throughout.
I used a local builder to do the structure. I had more tools than him!
I sorted all the other trades.
Looking back if I could afford it I would of set someone on to project manage the whole job.
While ever you are dealing with building you aren't doing other work so it's a saving and a loss at the same time.
If someone is in charge then it's their problem dealing with issues rather than yours.
And whatever you do make sure you do the air test before moving in. That was a nightmare trying to seal the bottoms of plasterboard and other gaps after fitted bathroom cabinets, kitchen cabinets, carpets were fitted!
Lots of mistakes along the way.
I did demolition and foundations. I provided materials and did all telehandler shifting and lifting throughout.
I used a local builder to do the structure. I had more tools than him!
I sorted all the other trades.
Looking back if I could afford it I would of set someone on to project manage the whole job.
While ever you are dealing with building you aren't doing other work so it's a saving and a loss at the same time.
If someone is in charge then it's their problem dealing with issues rather than yours.
And whatever you do make sure you do the air test before moving in. That was a nightmare trying to seal the bottoms of plasterboard and other gaps after fitted bathroom cabinets, kitchen cabinets, carpets were fitted!
Grassman
Member
- Location
- Derbyshire
We had a building inspector do the plans as he does them in his part time. But all we ended up with was 3 sheets of A4 printed off a computer program. Which the builder said was difficult to work with to say the least!
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
If you or builder isnt nhbc registered your architect can oversee the build and produce certificates.