Dts set up

I have just been reading the fg and the chap in there is running the front disk on the most aggressive setting, does the drill need tilting back when like this to keep presser on the rear wheels? I have found that too much weight on the shoulder can make it compact the ground. How do others have this disk set?
 

Shutesy

Moderator
Arable Farmer
I have just been reading the fg and the chap in there is running the front disk on the most aggressive setting, does the drill need tilting back when like this to keep presser on the rear wheels? I have found that too much weight on the shoulder can make it compact the ground. How do others have this disk set?
I have my front disc at its most aggressive setting, it improved its trash handling abilities by being able to chop straw or cover crop residue etc better. I also have taken the shoulder off my discs to help with the above. I don't think the shoulder on the disc is that vital for depth control, though having said that I took my shoulders off the day after I got the drill so never really used it with them on. I have the drill level when looking from the side when in work, definitely dont tip it back, press wheels dont want to much pressure on them IMO.
 

AG Tim

Member
Put it also on most aggressive (deepest hole). More to get the angle of the seed boot parallel to the ground, as we often had problems with loosing seeds into the loosening strip, when the seed boot created a kind of a v shape.

I would like to have the shoulders on both sides of the disc and Maybe a little bit wider, as i think it would press soil and straw before the seed boot and makes it more even. It also could improve the drills work in loose conditions, which the shoulders now are simply not wide enough and cave in. Thought about it because we have Seen it on a köckerling ultima some years ago with great succes.
 
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I have my front disc at its most aggressive setting, it improved its trash handling abilities by being able to chop straw or cover crop residue etc better. I also have taken the shoulder off my discs to help with the above. I don't think the shoulder on the disc is that vital for depth control, though having said that I took my shoulders off the day after I got the drill so never really used it with them on. I have the drill level when looking from the side when in work, definitely dont tip it back, press wheels dont want to much pressure on them IMO.
So your running the disk deeper than where the shoulder would be? I haven't had a problem with it not cutting through trash and cover but everyone's soil is different
 
Put it also on most aggressive (deepest hole). More to get the angle of the seed boot parallel to the ground, as we often had problems with loosing seeds into the loosening strip, when the seed boot created a kind of a v shape.

I would like to have the shoulders on both sides of the disc and Maybe a little bit wider, as i think it would press soil and straw before the seed boot and makes it more even. It also could improve the drills work in loose conditions, which the shoulders now are simply not wide enough and cave in. Thought about it because we have Seen it on a köckerling ultima some years ago with great succes.
Will give this a try, haven't seen seed running to the middle but have noticed the sides of the boot aren't as deep as the middle. Do u have any problems with it bitting into hard dry soil with it tipped back?

How much pressure is anyone running the drill at? Like to have ours at 22bar to get good ground following but often end up at 30bar to keep the front leg in the ground! But then the drill is up on the stops and not following contours v well!! Keep thinking it needs some biger rams on the front leg.
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
Will give this a try, haven't seen seed running to the middle but have noticed the sides of the boot aren't as deep as the middle. Do u have any problems with it bitting into hard dry soil with it tipped back?

How much pressure is anyone running the drill at? Like to have ours at 22bar to get good ground following but often end up at 30bar to keep the front leg in the ground! But then the drill is up on the stops and not following contours v well!! Keep thinking it needs some biger rams on the front leg.
Surely if you make the discs more aggressive they will take more weight off the tine? I run ours level with the discs in the middle hole and the shoulders on, I think the shoulders will help keep the disc turning. Keep the scrapers adjusted as well. On uneven ground I do find too many seeds not covered, theonly solution is to put it in deeper. :-( Too much pressure makes it rigid and then you might as well buy a Claydon!
 

AG Tim

Member
We where told the Optimum is about 8bar. In the first time we went up to 20-30bar, but the drill becomes rigid as Mo! described.

Now we only seldom get to 15 bar (frost drilling) but try to avoid it, as it is also hard for the drill and Wearing parts. Sometimes on stiff ground the seeding boots Start plowing - so the seed Band is not closed. But even with frost we haven't big problems getting the seed boot in, as the leading tine breaks the surface in front very well. The seed boot seems to work a bit shallow every time, but seeds are in the most cases a little bit to deep, so we know our Optimum now, but you should be aware that look compared to a disc drill is different.

On soft/loose ground (trioed or plowed land for example) we have to press and/or lower the pressure to 0. That is the point where i would like to have bigger shoulders on the discs and i think its also a point that causes blocking with loose trash in the most cases without tillage on stubble.
 
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AG Tim

Member
Than you also have no real individual depth control, as the disc will dive to deep into the ground. Maybe it works in no till, but than nearly the whole contour following relies on the packer wheels at the end.

We tried also the first time to keep the scrapers on the shoulders tight, but they are not strong enough and will brake or bend.
 
We where told the Optimum is about 8bar. In the first time we went up to 20-30bar, but the drill becomes rigid as Mo! described.

Now we only seldom get to 15 bar (frost drilling) but try to avoid it, as it is also hard for the drill and Wearing parts. Sometimes on stiff ground the seeding boots Start plowing - so the seed Band is not closed. But even with frost we haven't big problems getting the seed boot in, as the leading tine breaks the surface in front very well. The seed boot seems to work a bit shallow every time, but seeds are in the most cases a little bit to deep, so we know our Optimum now, but you should be aware that look compared to a disc drill is different.

On soft/loose ground (trioed or plowed land for example) we have to press and/or lower the pressure to 0. That is the point where i would like to have bigger shoulders on the discs and i think its also a point that causes blocking with loose trash in the most cases without tillage on stubble.
8bar? This seemes odd as the book says 30bar is standard +/-5bar depending on depth. I would say on our dts3 25 is max to get good ground following, but then the leading tine will only stay in the ground on shallowest setting on our heavy clay
 

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