Cast welding question.

RagnarHairybreeks · Aug 23, 2017

It doesn't flake off. And if you're worried about it looking slightly white then there's nothing to stop you painting it for cosmetics (although that won't improve your corrosion resistance). Trust me on this. The likes of Shell and Exxon rely on it to protect pipelines and oil rigs against corrosion and those boys know a bit

Ukjay · Aug 23, 2017

I can honestly say that this process was a real eye opener when we first used it in the late 80's. It gave us so many new opportunities, which we were then able to repair more items without having to rely solely on brazing, welding etc.

We even used it for repairing crankshaft journals before we ground them back.

I would honestly look for a local company with this technology to get you back up and running, as it would probably cost you more to weld it, grind it yourself. Take the offer to get put in contact with one of Ragnars customers - you may be surprised.

Dave W · Aug 23, 2017

Brokenoutofhate said:
I need to build up ~1mm of metal ~3.8mm wide on a cast part, the wear groove is 30mm long but I don't need to fill it all to get out off trouble.
Current suggestion is to heat until about 60-80 degrees then tack with mig and leave them in sand to cool slowly.
Is that the best option?

Just a thought going on the information provided. A 1mm deep groove 3.5mm wide is little more than a scratch so presumably it's not under any real load or the damage would be much worse in cast?? Also presumably it's not 2 parts that rub or pivot together or there'd be a bearing or bush in there.
Would something like bodyfiller do a job or chemical metal?

Ukjay · Aug 23, 2017

Could we see a picture of what you are talking about, as then we may have alternative ideas?

If you ars struggling with uploading a picture, let us know where it fails then we can help with that too (hopefully)?

Brokenoutofhate · Aug 23, 2017

It is two parts that pivot together.
Incorrect previous use made the knock each other and wear.
I will be getting in contact with somebody Ragnar has given me the number of to find out costing.

Brokenoutofhate · Aug 23, 2017

I tired last night but failed. I can link to another forum I asked on and got a picture up.

Ukjay · Aug 23, 2017

How are you trying to upload it, are you using the upload button on the bottom of the text bix?

Brokenoutofhate · Aug 23, 2017

I was.

Brokenoutofhate · Aug 23, 2017

trying again.

Dave W · Aug 23, 2017

Brokenoutofhate said:
trying again.

I get it. Looks like it clamps onto a square shaft to rotate it.
Think I'd be more inclined to machine it back to a flat face and slide something in to pack the space up

Mursal · Aug 23, 2017

Yes, absolutely flash it flat, its to shallow to fill properly.
Best to keep the stick welder away .........

Ukjay · Aug 23, 2017

Agree with Dave,

I would get the faces milled back to flat, then add small packers (shims), to locate the shaft it fits onto. Very quick and cheap repair for a small engineering company if you do not have a milling machine, but you need to ensure you know how much you take off each face to be able to center it back up.

Brokenoutofhate · Aug 23, 2017

Just to give more info that may affect suggestions. parts are available but I cannot keep spending on it. a bodge would suffice for the time being as long as it doesn't damage the shaft.
sorry I am not the best at explaining things.

Ukjay · Aug 23, 2017

Brokenoutofhate said:
Just to give more info that may affect suggestions. parts are available but I cannot keep spending on it. a bodge would suffice for the time being as long as it doesn't damage the shaft.
sorry I am not the best at explaining things.

I appreciate you may think the bodge would get you by maybe financial reasons I do not know, but what is the impact if the bodge goes boobs up?

Dave W · Aug 23, 2017

Not sure what the terminology is but that doesn't look like old fashioned cast iron (grey) to me.
You're not actually wanting to join anything together and once assembled it should hold any filler of whatever sort in place even if it hasn't taken properly.
Another option is a rest run. heat etc and blob some weld on another bit of the part then when cold try and chisel it off. It'll either pop off with first strike or it'll be sound.

Personally I'd be looking at stainless rods

Jack Daw · Aug 23, 2017

I agree with Dave W I don't think it's cast, looks like its drop forged steel to me.

Mursal · Aug 23, 2017

Brokenoutofhate said:
Just to give more info that may affect suggestions. parts are available but I cannot keep spending on it. a bodge would suffice for the time being as long as it doesn't damage the shaft.
sorry I am not the best at explaining things.

Ok then so, a mild steel shim/washer between the two surfaces.
If mild steel is to hard against the casting use copper or brass.
Shimming steel sheets are available on E-Bay (more money) or a bean tin if light washers are outside the budget ..........
Obviously if you use mild steel and cant lubricate the surface it will cut a deeper track in the casting, but it is a budget fix.

To shallow to weld ............

RFR · Aug 23, 2017

looks like the depth wheel adjuster of a JD 750a drill

TripleSix · Aug 28, 2017

Brokenoutofhate said:
Just to clarify I was after a cheap quick fix as the parts to replace are beyond what I can spend atm. The damage was cause by improper use by previous owner, which allowed the parts to impact each other instead of being under a constant amount of pressure.

Go at it with the MIG.

Plenty of amps.

Cast welding question.

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