Pist'n Broke.

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 21, 2018

• #1

The original 1980 build 4-236 in my old MF 565 workshop shunter. Had hoped it was just a duff injector...
Because parts prices are low, and the oil pressure is excellent, it's worth having the original cast liners machined out, then treat it to new engine kit.....

 

A

agrimax

Member

Location

Co Down

• Feb 21, 2018

• #2

Unless the liners have been replaced before and locktite has been used, you can either break them out.....carefully.... or get a liner dolly made and pull them out with a piece of threaded bar. I replaced the liners in my 3cx by hammering a piece of good hardwood up against them. When they lifted up out of the block enough, a pry bar brought them on out. The new ones just hammered down in again with a piece of wood on top.

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 21, 2018

• #3

agrimax said:

Unless the liners have been replaced before and locktite has been used, you can either break them out.....carefully.... or get a liner dolly made and pull them out with a piece of threaded bar. I replaced the liners in my 3cx by hammering a piece of good hardwood up against them. When they lifted up out of the block enough, a pry bar brought them on out. The new ones just hammered down in again with a piece of wood on top.

Click to expand...

That seems a good plan, might give it a go, but the original cast liners have been in there 38 years so will take some moving. Other Perkins engines, I understand, have a much thinner [bean can] type liner that can break out more easily.

 

REStracTORATION

Member

• Feb 21, 2018

• #4

Campbell said:

That seems a good plan, might give it a go, but the original cast liners have been in there 38 years so will take some moving. Other Perkins engines, I understand, have a much thinner [bean can] type liner that can break out more easily.

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Yes the liners in your engine are thicker they will chip out but it's hard going
The thinner lined is in the 3cyl engines
They a bit thin you freeze the liner and heat the block they slip in then got to be quick though.

Yours should pull out They will be tight to get started and tight to go back in
Did you get the injector out??

 

Mursal

Member

• Feb 21, 2018

• #5

What caused the piston damage?
Wait, I'll reread it again, I must have missed a bit .....

 

Mursal

Member

• Feb 21, 2018

• #6

No I cant see it ............
Wonder what caused the piston to "melt" like that ?

Edit:
I'd leave the bottom oil scraper off the next time, if the new pistons have two.
Those dry liners can be tight ...........

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 22, 2018

• #7

Mursal said:

No I cant see it ............
Wonder what caused the piston to "melt" like that ?

Edit:
I'd leave the bottom oil scraper off the next time, if the new pistons have two.
Those dry liners can be tight ...........

Click to expand...

My guess is the top ring failed and caused the damage rather than any melting, the liner is also severely scored.

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 22, 2018

• #8

REStracTORATION said:

Did you get the injector out??

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Yea but no..!!! The nozzle screw caps bust off on two of them, so have the main bodies and the nozzles, just need to dig out the rusted caps.

 

C

Celtic Driver

Member

• Feb 24, 2018

• #9

What were the symptoms before the piston went we have a 565 here which smokes blue a lot but does not use oil .

 

Mursal

Member

• Feb 24, 2018

• #10

Not getting hard enough work?
Also check the sump vent isn't a bit blocked, unlikely

 

S

spanners and hammers

Member

Location

cambridgeshire

• Feb 24, 2018

• #11

shrink them with beads of weld down them and they will pull up easy

 

Mursal

Member

• Feb 24, 2018

• #12

Works very well with outer bearing shells, does it work as well with the old liners, never tried?

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 25, 2018

• #13

Celtic Driver said:

What were the symptoms before the piston went we have a 565 here which smokes blue a lot but does not use oil .

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Started chuffing and blue smoke at cold starting, oil consumption was not excessive, but it is only used around the yard moving stuff.

 

C

Celtic Driver

Member

• Feb 25, 2018

• #14

Thanks for that do you know how many hours it has done .

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 25, 2018

• #15

Celtic Driver said:

Thanks for that do you know how many hours it has done .

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Clock stopped at 3600, but engine is original.

 

C

Celtic Driver

Member

• Feb 25, 2018

• #16

The engine kits for these are cheap enough a company called engine fix uk are the cheapest £225 for the kit on ebay they also advertise in classic tractor etc i have had a word with them on the phone they seem to be good people .

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 25, 2018

• #17

Celtic Driver said:

The engine kits for these are cheap enough a company called engine fix uk are the cheapest £225 for the kit on ebay they also advertise in classic tractor etc i have had a word with them on the phone they seem to be good people .

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Was looking at Vapormatic, as you say plenty of choice.

 

S

startinghandle

Member

• Feb 25, 2018

• #18

when you have rebuilt engine check cooling system is working ok and fit new thermostat, perhaps thermostat has been removed causing engine not reaching full working temperature

 

Mursal

Member

• Feb 25, 2018

• #19

And don't go rebuilding a good engine, just because the Spurious Parts or cheap. For the sake of perhaps, a set of valve stem oil seals.

 

Campbell

Member

Location

Herefordshire

• Feb 25, 2018

• #20

Mursal said:

And don't go rebuilding a good engine, just because the Spurious Parts or cheap. For the sake of perhaps, a set of valve stem oil seals.

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You been talking to my Mrs..?