Shed roof truss and pillars ?

massey 6480 · Apr 25, 2018

Right lads need to put a roof over a yard here at home so dont have to be dealing with soiled water . Have shed`s either side of it that i plan to graft pillars on to . Only issue been pillars of both shed`s are`t in line . Well some are and some not . See the drawing below for what i mean .

Is there any reason why i cant have some of the roof trusses running at an angle . Want to keep costs down on this build .
Next question one shed is straight forward to graft to but the other has an overhanging roof truss . Suggestion`s / ideas on how to graft to it . Pic below of what i`m trying to describe

All steel work on existing shed`s is ipe 200 . New shed roof truss would be roughly 6.5 m long With a 12 degree pitch to match existing sheds . New roof needs to sit 500 mm higher on the stanchion in the pic above .
All opinions welcome Cheer`s Sean .

RWG Contracts · Apr 26, 2018

You want your new roof 500mm higher than the roof with the over hang?

massey 6480 · Apr 26, 2018

Thats it . That roof is only 3.2 m high at that side . Low side of the new roof will be connected to the side with the overhang

RWG Contracts said:
You want your new roof 500mm higher than the roof with the over hang?

RWG Contracts · Apr 26, 2018

Does it need to be 500mm higher on other side or is that side the right height?

massey 6480 · Apr 26, 2018

Other side is going to have to be added to has well its only 2.8 m high . But thats straight forward to add to i reckon

RWG Contracts said:
Does it need to be 500mm higher on other side or is that side the right height?

simmy_bull · Apr 26, 2018

Would you be better with a carrying beam in between the posts like they do when you want to miss a leg out on a shed? That way you could keep all the rafters running square rather than on an angle?

nonemouse · Apr 26, 2018

have you considered using sky hooks to support the trusses

massey 6480 · Apr 26, 2018

simmy_bull said:
Would you be better with a carrying beam in between the posts like they do when you want to miss a leg out on a shed? That way you could keep all the rafters running square rather than on an angle?

Trying to keep the costs down so trying to avoid having to fit a carrying beam .

nonemouse said:
have you considered using sky hooks to support the trusses

There surprisingly expensive to buy bit like striped paint

Putting in new pillars for this roof is not an option see the pic below of the yard to be covered

Sparkymark · Apr 26, 2018

If the left side is higher than the right side i would have a flat roof gently sloping to the right and put one valley gutter to the right. Join on steels to the overhang on the left. You will need a channel iron wall plate on the right to fix the new rafters to.
Does this make any sense?

RWG Contracts · Apr 26, 2018

To get round your gutter do this

dannewhouse · Apr 26, 2018

would it be easier to run a steel horizontal in a position similar to an eaves beam?
you could then put rafters to this wherever you wanted ie match the opposite side?

is it the left side that needs to be higher? looks to me to be the right that want to be higher?
would height matter if done like this: as it would be as high as the building either side?
peak doesn't have to be exactly central ie each side doesn't need to be same height it wont cost any more?

RWG Contracts · Apr 26, 2018

dannewhouse said:
would it be easier to run a steel horizontal in a position similar to an eaves beam?
you could then put rafters to this wherever you wanted ie match the opposite side?

is it the left side that needs to be higher? looks to me to be the right that want to be higher?
would height matter if done like this: as it would be as high as the building either side?
peak doesn't have to be exactly central ie each side doesn't need to be same height it wont cost any more?
View attachment 664212

I was going to suggest same until he said he wanted to do it cheap

dannewhouse · Apr 26, 2018

RWG Contracts said:
I was going to suggest same until he said he wanted to do it cheap

would it cost more though?
I agree more steel but a heck of a lot less time cutting up and welding? and I think its getting to stage where mans time is dearer than materials?

the debate is which columns to follow? I would follow the 4.8m centres but it might not make sense to if he wants to bring it right to front, its 6 frames either way?

as for running stealwork diagonally, yes it can be done ... heck of a lot of measuring and messing about though?

RWG Contracts · Apr 26, 2018

dannewhouse said:
would it cost more though?
I agree more steel but a heck of a lot less time cutting up and welding? and I think its getting to stage where mans time is dearer than materials?

the debate is which columns to follow? I would follow the 4.8m centres but it might not make sense to if he wants to bring it right to front, its 6 frames either way?

as for running stealwork diagonally, yes it can be done ... heck of a lot of measuring and messing about though?

I wouldn’t be putting steels up on an angle. Would look a bodge I think. And so much measuring and drawing to do

dannewhouse · Apr 26, 2018

RWG Contracts said:
I wouldn’t be putting steels up on an angle. Would look a bodge I think. And so much measuring and drawing to do

I agree, do you get many corners I have seen a few with 30ft spans in an L shape that want a total 30x30 with no internal legs if you understand me I always look and think I bet that was expensive for the little it gained? if I needed that floor setup I would carry 1 shed through with a carrier beam to avoid 1 column? be cheaper surely

AJR75 · Apr 26, 2018

As been said, carrier beams the way to go- we've done quite a few in fills line this. If you want to run a pair of rafters from one column to another that doesn't line up will mean compound cuts to the ends of the rafters- to do them accurately and well takes a bit of thinking about.

massey 6480 · Apr 27, 2018

Cheer`s for all the info lads . Had another look at it there this evening in day light . Bit more info for ye plan is to put a slatted tank into the shed on the right . Orignal idea was to dig out tank with roof still intack. But having thought about it again thinking now towards removing the roof off the shed . And turning the removed roof so it faces in the opposite direction .See pic below to explain it a bit better old roof position in red new position in green

.
Will make digging out the tank considerably easier and add little cost just our own time to remove the roof and refit it . Will still need the same amount of steel to for the new roof . And kind of agreeing with ye on the carrier beam it`s only going to be 1 45` lenght of ipe200 that would be needed . Will see what the rest here think of the idea .

tw15 · Apr 27, 2018

From your drawing it only shows 3 maybe 4 posts out of line why not put in extra uprights to match so you can just do a simple roof cutting and doing angles would cost a lot of time .

massey 6480 · Apr 27, 2018

Extra uprights can't be added as there's a feeding trough on one side and a cattle chute / race on the other . Neither of which I want to go changing.

tw15 · Apr 27, 2018

massey 6480 said:
Extra uprights can't be added as there's a feeding trough on one side and a cattle chute / race on the other . Neither of which I want to go changing.

I would look to make brackets to come of the original out of line up rights if they are not to far out just make shore they are well braced with gussets . Also lightweight roof

Shed roof truss and pillars ?

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