stevemoore
New Member
Thanks very much, I’ll be on my way now to check out everything you’ve told me thanks very much.
Hello everybody, I’ve got a small Manitou problem
- Thread starter stevemoore
- Start date
- Location
- South Wales UK
Let us know how you get on maybe.
stevemoore
New Member
Don’t you worry I’ll keep you posted. Throttle cable a bit sticky, sometimes opens pump fully and sometimes not so we’ll attend to that first.
RCW Farm Services
Member
...So while we're fixing manitou's (appologys for the thread hijack) any idea why my crowd ram on a 634 needs 1500 rpm to get it to work ?? No leaks from the ram externally can the check valves be serviced?
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Lock out valve.
On it you will find a adjuster bolt 10mm head and a 13mm spanner to undo the lock nut. Loosen it off to speed up the valve opening. Set it with hot oil if you speed it up to much it with judder. There will be a slight delay when cold oil.
Or are all things slow untill 1500rpm? Could need a ecu re calibration or new pot switch and calibration. Below 1200rpm pump is derated by 40% flow on the 120hp
Edit.
Oh and no you cant service the lock out valves. There is a kit but you need a special test bench to reset them which no dealer in uk will have as its too expensive. New valve be about £350ish at a guess.
stevemoore
New Member
I now have a definite 2500rpm but still no 5th gear, whilst checking around I did find pressure pipe to boost diaphragm was actually loose on the pump end. Do I need more revs still?
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Nooo, 2500 is actually slightly more than book spec. probably just a inaccurate counter they not 100% accurate
if its still not going in 5th at all then you need to find that trailer disconnect switch, although some early models didn't have it.
if you turn the ignition on do you get an error code or an E on the LED display? there is a way to enter the mode to check for errors, may well have several issues going on other than just the throttle cable etc just got to work through them.
and yes you want to nip the little pipe up to the boost diaphragm.
how handy are you with a multi meter or test light???
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Ignore the highlighted 5th gear in this attached chart.
although your machine is a 5 speed it is in fact the exact same transmission as the later 6speed machines but with a different ECU program!
Early machines skipped 5th and jumped straight to 6th which was a stupid idea!
also attached is a drawing showing you the solenoids.
R = reverse
FL is forward low
FH is forward High
then there are 1, 2 and 3 highlighted in red
use the table to id which combo of solenoids are powered for each gear.
So your lack of 5th gear which is actually 6th, uses FH and 3 solenoids, now you already know FH is working as its used in other gears but 3 is only used in forward 6th so that will be were you need to look, problem is you cant lay underneath it to check for power at the plug while trying to travel flat out down the road to kick in the speed sensor
so will just have to make sure the connection is good for starters then possibly have to rig up a wire to a remote test light so you can drive it while watching the test light from the seat
Before you go to this trouble made dam sure it not just the trailer switch blocking top gear or you will be wasting your time.
although your machine is a 5 speed it is in fact the exact same transmission as the later 6speed machines but with a different ECU program!
Early machines skipped 5th and jumped straight to 6th which was a stupid idea!
also attached is a drawing showing you the solenoids.
R = reverse
FL is forward low
FH is forward High
then there are 1, 2 and 3 highlighted in red
use the table to id which combo of solenoids are powered for each gear.
So your lack of 5th gear which is actually 6th, uses FH and 3 solenoids, now you already know FH is working as its used in other gears but 3 is only used in forward 6th so that will be were you need to look, problem is you cant lay underneath it to check for power at the plug while trying to travel flat out down the road to kick in the speed sensor
so will just have to make sure the connection is good for starters then possibly have to rig up a wire to a remote test light so you can drive it while watching the test light from the seatBefore you go to this trouble made dam sure it not just the trailer switch blocking top gear or you will be wasting your time.
Attachments
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
if you have E3 error on the display then that means fault with power too, solenoid 3 or the solenoid is failed.
Nothing else left for me to say really
Have fun
Nothing else left for me to say really
Have fun
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
may just this! will find it next to the cab heater controls.
stevemoore
New Member
I appreciate the time that you’re wasting on me!! Switch on with kickdown button pressed and I get P 0 5 8 . Without kickdown switch I get 8. Then n
stevemoore
New Member
And I definitely don’t have a trailer switch that I can find.
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Switch it on as normal in neutral and see what you get. No errors will just got to N but if error it should show it for 2 seconds.
stevemoore
New Member
That’s when it shows 8 for a couple of seconds then goes to n
stevemoore
New Member
Will video tomorrow
stevemoore
New Member
Videos sent via email to Andrew.
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Yep got them. Still thinking about it. That code is a new one on me.
stevemoore
New Member
Think the code means “in future don’t buy machines at auction”.
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Wondering if that p is really a d, Maybe typo in manual or something, that would tie in with a fault on solenoid 3 for your 5th gear, fault code 5 is solenoid 2 which is used in 4th and 3rd gear.
You got to pull that plug apart on solenoid 3 and see if its terminals and wiring is corroded away. in fact I would just pull the lot off and do them all cause its very common for them to get water in and corrode, new plugs are about £3 to £4 each from manitou and they are a better version now, I new trans loom is out of the question as that's near £500! could make one of them if needed but it wont be that bad.
Also look closely at the wiring on the ECU plug, lift boom up remove the panel under the boom over the trany, tucked in under the cab is a big ECU for trany, had vermin nibble the wires off the plug before.
I have also had faulty LED displays in the past! but you get a number 8 which indicates all the bars that make up the display are working! and the Dot is at the bottom so its not been put in dash upside down