New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Very much so, and I'm glad you mentioned it, but I nevertheless hope it isn't the case on mine as it sounds nasty to fix!
David Brown 885
- Thread starter New Puritan
- Start date
Very much so, and I'm glad you mentioned it, but I nevertheless hope it isn't the case on mine as it sounds nasty to fix!
- Location
- Ardrossan Ayrshire
Nearly certain the cure is to put a tap in the drain bung, so not that big a deal.
Boohoo
Member
- Location
- Newtownabbey
I'm more familiar with the 4 cylinder models so if I'm wrong someone please correct me. If the engine is running rough I'd clean the filter in the lift pump and the filter on the end of the pipe going into the injector pump and replace the 2 cartridge filters, my preference is for Delphi filters. The state of these filters should give you a clue as to how clean or dirty the tank is.
If clean filters don't cure your problems I'd look at the lift pump and its drive pin. If there is a problem with either of these rough running or cutting out is more likely when the diesel tank is less than half full.
If clean filters don't cure your problems I'd look at the lift pump and its drive pin. If there is a problem with either of these rough running or cutting out is more likely when the diesel tank is less than half full.
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Thank you once again to everyone who provided help & encouragement on this. I am pleased to say the tractor is now running again, and I've already used it to good effect pushing up the compost heap (which I used to have to do by hand - that's the sort of thing that informed my choice of username).
I drained the fuel system, gave everything I could a good clean, and replaced the two cartridge filters. They were both really grotty, to the extent I'm fairly amazed it was running at all before.
There's a joke about Triumph motorbikes turning motorcyclists into mechanics - is the same true of farmers and DBs? I'm not fond of having to take the bonnet off to get at the injectors to bleed the system. For a horrible moment I thought the cab was going to need to come off to get the bonnet off, but luckily there is a little panel that can be removed that provides enough wriggle room.
I still need to do the engine and hydraulic oil systems, and the air filters. I haven't got round to getting the oil yet being my main excuse. But I went all over it with the grease gun, and cleaned various things and so on and it feels a bit more familiar. I can even get in and out of it without hurting myself now.
I drained the fuel system, gave everything I could a good clean, and replaced the two cartridge filters. They were both really grotty, to the extent I'm fairly amazed it was running at all before.
There's a joke about Triumph motorbikes turning motorcyclists into mechanics - is the same true of farmers and DBs? I'm not fond of having to take the bonnet off to get at the injectors to bleed the system. For a horrible moment I thought the cab was going to need to come off to get the bonnet off, but luckily there is a little panel that can be removed that provides enough wriggle room.
I still need to do the engine and hydraulic oil systems, and the air filters. I haven't got round to getting the oil yet being my main excuse. But I went all over it with the grease gun, and cleaned various things and so on and it feels a bit more familiar. I can even get in and out of it without hurting myself now.
Mursal
Member
Good to hear ..............
Some of the "cowboys" used to mount from the back, did you try that approach yet?
And don't be taking that bonnet on and off, loosen the injector pipes as they come off the injector pump
But tell no one about it .....................
And that's only if it stops on you, if you stop the engine no need to bleed injectors even after a filter change. But make sure its fully bled to the little bleed screw on the roundy bit of the pump
Some of the "cowboys" used to mount from the back, did you try that approach yet?
And don't be taking that bonnet on and off, loosen the injector pipes as they come off the injector pump
But tell no one about it .....................
And that's only if it stops on you, if you stop the engine no need to bleed injectors even after a filter change. But make sure its fully bled to the little bleed screw on the roundy bit of the pump
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Netherfield
Member
- Location
- West Yorkshire
That little panel you removed, when it was new it would have had wing nuts fitted, I dare bet they aren't there now.
Keep a good check on the bolts holding the loader to the tractor, need to be kept tight.
Keep a good check on the bolts holding the loader to the tractor, need to be kept tight.
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
3 out of 4 of them are still there! Plus one ropey old screw with a round head. An annoying feature was that the loader has a strengthening bar across the bonnet right in front of the windscreen which made it hard to get the two higher bolts out.
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Selectamatic
Member
- Location
- North Wales
Those cabs were terrible. Not David Brown's finest hour.
You don't have to put that little panel back, we had a piece of foam wedged between the cab and bonnet for many years, did fine, and easier to remove!
Netherfield
Member
- Location
- West Yorkshire
You'd find most only had two bolts fitted because of that.
https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr53667ar1286655
Item no 32 is a breather on the reductions, make sure this kept clear, a thin bit of wire poked through now and then.
https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr53667ar1286655
Item no 32 is a breather on the reductions, make sure this kept clear, a thin bit of wire poked through now and then.
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Ha - I did have to put it back as I never did manage to get one of the two upper bolts out, but there was enough slack in it with the remaining bolt loose and the other 3 removed that I could wriggle the bonnet out from under it. I don't want it flapping around when I'm driving it, so I bolted them all back up again.
Great little tractor. Had one with a loader doing nearly the same work as we're doing now with as case mx and loader
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
@Selectamatic (or anyone else who might know) - from an earlier post, is it 20/30 oil I need? The manual says 20/20, but is 20/30 better for those in the know? And is that for the engine or hydraulics? The manual seems to make it more confusing that it ought to be (to me, anyway...)
TIA!
TIA!
Selectamatic
Member
- Location
- North Wales
Yep, 20/30W is what I use.
It used to be the old Agricastrol Multi Use (back then it was not to be confused with Agricastrol Multi Purpose)
As modern oil goes, it's crappy old low detergent, low spec oil. But who cares, mine seem to do well on it, and you change it every 100 hours anyway! It was what they recommended, back then.
20/20 would probably be fine too. We put some 15/40 in ours many years ago, leaks, heavy breathing and oil consumption got much worse.
Cleanliness is important, but I've already preached on about that!!
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Thanks @Selectamatic , that's really helpful. So is it that stuff for everything - engine & hydraulics?
Courier
Member
- Location
- M62 - M1 - M18 triangle
Small tip, - If you are using the loader seriously then please make a counterbalance weight which hangs out as far beyond the back axle as is practical so that it takes some of the stress off the front axle.
New Puritan
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Yes! I have a concrete lump that was on my landlord's old MF35 loader tractor which is going to be put to just that purpose. Thanks though, it's good advice.
Exfarmer
Member
- Location
- Bury St Edmunds
You need EP 90 in the redutions on the back axle. Dont forget them as at this age there is a good chance they have leaked a bit. There is also an important nipple togrease there as well I think it is a 1,000 hour greaser but a very little more often does not hurt. It lubricates the seal.
Selectamatic
Member
- Location
- North Wales
Yes.
Engine and Transmission use the same oil.
Transmission and hydraulics share oil from the same place.
Reductions will need some EP 90
Otherwise, that's it.
Did I mention cleanliness...?
Selectamatic
Member
- Location
- North Wales
Not too much though, a few pumps of the grease gun, no more, otherwise it could blow the seal out.