Cattle handling project

Whitepeak

Member
Livestock Farmer
Probably better than trying to sort them in the race :eek:
Surely that defeats the object of a handling system if you've got to have 2 seperate set ups :scratchhead:


I'm hoping our new system will make weaning and separating calves easier, by running them through and drafting them different ways hopefully. Currently we do it in a couple of big pens and it's dangerous for us or calves getting knocked over or cows doing the splits. Would be interested how others do it though. Particularly as we have our first 6mth TB test in November, so calves will still be suckling.
 

Gulli

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Somerset
Surely that defeats the object of a handling system if you've got to have 2 seperate set ups :scratchhead:


I'm hoping our new system will make weaning and separating calves easier, by running them through and drafting them different ways hopefully. Currently we do it in a couple of big pens and it's dangerous for us or calves getting knocked over or cows doing the splits. Would be interested how others do it though. Particularly as we have our first 6mth TB test in November, so calves will still be suckling.
Weaning here we just do in the yards, shed cows through a gate into a different yard.
Like your way better though as it could be done by one person instead of 3 people having a constant argument:whistle:

Tb testing we don't bother to split them off, young calves just go through with the cows. Older ones we tend to do a few cows and then a few calves however they come. Easier to split as they get older
 

Whitepeak

Member
Livestock Farmer
Sorry for the lack of posts, can't do much from a Turkish beach :cool:

The roof is finally finished
20181015_173755.jpg


We've got most of the post holes pecked out, and have made a start on setting up the race. Now to get it done before bonfire night
20181019_155931.jpg
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
We're going to be putting our new system in shortly. What is the collective's view on setting it up: concrete and then hole saw out the post holes, set up first and concrete after, or set boxes, concrete and then set up in the holes?
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
We're going to be putting our new system in shortly. What is the collective's view on setting it up: concrete and then hole saw out the post holes, set up first and concrete after, or set boxes, concrete and then set up in the holes?
second be stronger.
I set the posts in semi dry concrete then concrete the floor around them to hold them, im moving to the bolt box idea though, be easier to set height and position etc.
 

tr250

Member
Location
Northants
Tidy job, we put up a similar Rancher system last year. Having some quite large cattle it is 150mm taller. Being a short guy we put on a walk way which really works.

Problems 700mm not wide enough for some pregnant cows and bulls and too wide for wee calves. Sepa lady didnt like it being outside despite it being cleaned after every handling. Scotpen have stopped making them!

It revolutionises handling cattle so much so I do most of it by my self. We still shed calves though to make life easier and crushing less likely. Phase 2 is still to do where we update the loading bank and use it as a circular holding pen.

Great set up. We have 100 cows and on paper its not easy to justify things like this but any time off work due to injury fairly helps justify it.
Everything is a compromise size wise with a suckler herd
 

Whitepeak

Member
Livestock Farmer
We're going to be putting our new system in shortly. What is the collective's view on setting it up: concrete and then hole saw out the post holes, set up first and concrete after, or set boxes, concrete and then set up in the holes?
We spoke about this with a contractor who came to do a little job on ours. Basically his answer was which ever way round you want- pouring the concrete first makes it a lot simpler getting the slab down and the levels right on that, however you end up cutting the concrete, the other way its a lot simpler to put the race up before the concrete as your measurements don't have to be spot on, but then you end up having a tricky slab of concrete to pour, setting boxes would mean you either being very accurate with your post centres or allowing for a big margin of error. When I see new builds on Facebook/Twitter most pour the concrete last. With ours it was an existing concrete floor so we had to cut the concrete, we thought we were quite accurate marking out but several holes needed to be extended as just one post being slightly out (because of a couple of degree warp on a curved panel) is exaggerrated as you go down the length of the race.
A couple of bits of advice: the contractor recommended putting a bit of concrete in the base of post holes to help set levels, we had a mix of soft clay and bedrock so having a consistant base depth would have made life easier. He also recommended bending the bolts when fixing curved panels as they are rarely square to the ends and so the bolts don't thread through very well. And one slightly stranger idea I saw on Twitter, set it all up upside down in situ so that you can find precise post centres (didn't see that one until we'd started though). These tips will help particularly with curved sections as the galvanising often warps the panels slightly throwing them slightly off the technical drawings.
I'll try and upload some photos tomorrow of ours now its completed.
 

beltbreaker

Member
Location
Ross-shire
We put up our set up in sockets on site then concreted the sockets and disassembled it before laying the slab. We never put a fall in it which has proven a blessing in disguise as it minimises pollution and SEPA are quite happy with it. If it was on a slope they would not have been happy....
 

Ian1890

Member
We're going to be putting our new system in shortly. What is the collective's view on setting it up: concrete and then hole saw out the post holes, set up first and concrete after, or set boxes, concrete and then set up in the holes?

We put all ours in sockets, so set the sockets in place, then disassembled, and concreted the slab. Worked really well.
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
We put all ours in sockets, so set the sockets in place, then disassembled, and concreted the slab. Worked really well.
When you say sockets do you mean wooden boxes or steel box that the gates slot into. Maybe a pic would help.a
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
We put up our set up in sockets on site then concreted the sockets and disassembled it before laying the slab. We never put a fall in it which has proven a blessing in disguise as it minimises pollution and SEPA are quite happy with it. If it was on a slope they would not have been happy....
Our building will be grant aided under catchment sensitive farming so we can't have anything running out!
 

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
We spoke about this with a contractor who came to do a little job on ours. Basically his answer was which ever way round you want- pouring the concrete first makes it a lot simpler getting the slab down and the levels right on that, however you end up cutting the concrete, the other way its a lot simpler to put the race up before the concrete as your measurements don't have to be spot on, but then you end up having a tricky slab of concrete to pour, setting boxes would mean you either being very accurate with your post centres or allowing for a big margin of error. When I see new builds on Facebook/Twitter most pour the concrete last. With ours it was an existing concrete floor so we had to cut the concrete, we thought we were quite accurate marking out but several holes needed to be extended as just one post being slightly out (because of a couple of degree warp on a curved panel) is exaggerrated as you go down the length of the race.
A couple of bits of advice: the contractor recommended putting a bit of concrete in the base of post holes to help set levels, we had a mix of soft clay and bedrock so having a consistant base depth would have made life easier. He also recommended bending the bolts when fixing curved panels as they are rarely square to the ends and so the bolts don't thread through very well. And one slightly stranger idea I saw on Twitter, set it all up upside down in situ so that you can find precise post centres (didn't see that one until we'd started though). These tips will help particularly with curved sections as the galvanising often warps the panels slightly throwing them slightly off the technical drawings.
I'll try and upload some photos tomorrow of ours now its completed.
If the posts are to be concreted in and you fancy doing the slab first you could dig the holes and concrete some 10/12" plastic twin wall in and cut of to correct level then concrete slab and erect handling set up and pack it level then fill in around posts inside the plastic pipe
 

mo!

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
York
If the posts are to be concreted in and you fancy doing the slab first you could dig the holes and concrete some 10/12" plastic twin wall in and cut of to correct level then concrete slab and erect handling set up and pack it level then fill in around posts inside the plastic pipe
Polystyrene void former would be better. @RWGContracts where would you get them. Or just buy some holes off @Cab Over Pete...
 

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