Which mower conditioner?

ffukedfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
West Kent
What sort of Kuhn is that? A budget model?
I have a 3.2m John Deere, which is a green Kuhn with rigid tine conditioner. It lifts from the centre of the bed via a long arm, so the bed and conditioner is supported on both sides and lifts parallel to the ground.

FC284D. Centre pivot with metal tined conditioner. Their 3.2m version has a little ram to hold the bed firm when lifted. Mine has a chain and spring arrangement which doesn't appear to do very much.
 

Gerbert

Member
Location
Dutch biblebelt
Bit out of touch. Do people buy single mounted mowers because they're cheaper or can you not get trailed anymore?
Mounted are horrible things in my opinion, unless you have one on the other side to balance them up. Make the tractor unstable and put too much strain on one side.
I'd have a trailed centre pull swing over jobbie.(y)

Are ditches a thing overthere?
I do not want a trailed mower because you can not mow the far end close to the water. 90% of our land has ditches on some or all sides.
 
Bit out of touch. Do people buy single mounted mowers because they're cheaper or can you not get trailed anymore?
Mounted are horrible things in my opinion, unless you have one on the other side to balance them up. Make the tractor unstable and put too much strain on one side.
I'd have a trailed centre pull swing over jobbie.(y)
I put the mower on my hedgecutting tractor. Balances it all up at the end of the year :ROFLMAO:.
They are more manouerable in narrow lanes and tight gateways , are cheaper and will in the right hands do as good a job .
My last one did 20 years without mower or tractor damage.
 

njneer

Member
Bit of advice if buying a Claas
Buy the extra wear skids when ordering it .
They are an extra and are cheap at order but expensive to retrofit buying from from spare parts.
 

jd6820

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Hello All

Thanks for all the reply’s, the opinions really helped.

I bought the Krone in the end, a good bit cheaper than the Claas and delivery in a few weeks...
Don't think you will regret that decision, just bought one ourselves and it's a heavy well built bit of kit. Very happy with it and the residuals look good too. Been out mowing and it does a clean job as you would expect on a brand new machine. It was between this or Claas, both are good machines. I prefer the simple heavy metal approach krone take vs the very refined exactly engineered tolerances of the Claas.
 
Bit out of touch. Do people buy single mounted mowers because they're cheaper or can you not get trailed anymore?
Mounted are horrible things in my opinion, unless you have one on the other side to balance them up. Make the tractor unstable and put too much strain on one side.
I'd have a trailed centre pull swing over jobbie.(y)

If you have the fields and gateways, I reckon the trailed are a bit kinder to the tractor and ride a little better. Some of the mounted ones you see about, it is no accident they are on bigger tractors than the sub 150hp sort they would have had 15 years ago.

Knew a man who ran front and rear combinations on a NH 8560 and that used to be near boiling some days and on it's guts. Likewise I knew a man with a 6910 JD that ran a front mower and a trailed rear, to have both machines in work you needed pretty flat land and a steady forward speed, but both of these seemed a bit over the top compared to my friend who did a lot of work with a 6910 and a 5m kuhn alterna which was a big mower for its day. You could get it anywhere and it rode nicely in the field and on the road and didn't give the tractor too much grief.

When you compare contractor outfits today they are worlds apart. Often near double the power, on a larger framed machine and tyres to carry it all its easy to see where the workrate comes from today.
 

v8willy

Member
Mixed Farmer
If you have the fields and gateways, I reckon the trailed are a bit kinder to the tractor and ride a little better. Some of the mounted ones you see about, it is no accident they are on bigger tractors than the sub 150hp sort they would have had 15 years ago.

Knew a man who ran front and rear combinations on a NH 8560 and that used to be near boiling some days and on it's guts. Likewise I knew a man with a 6910 JD that ran a front mower and a trailed rear, to have both machines in work you needed pretty flat land and a steady forward speed, but both of these seemed a bit over the top compared to my friend who did a lot of work with a 6910 and a 5m kuhn alterna which was a big mower for its day. You could get it anywhere and it rode nicely in the field and on the road and didn't give the tractor too much grief.

When you compare contractor outfits today they are worlds apart. Often near double the power, on a larger framed machine and tyres to carry it all its easy to see where the workrate comes from today.
Front mowers have a habit of blocking the front grille & rad, which wouldn't be helping the boiling.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Knew a man who ran front and rear combinations on a NH 8560 and that used to be near boiling some days and on it's guts. Likewise I knew a man with a 6910 JD that ran a front mower and a trailed rear, to have both machines in work you needed pretty flat land and a steady forward speed, but both of these seemed a bit over the top compared to my friend who did a lot of work with a 6910 and a 5m kuhn alterna which was a big mower for its day. You could get it anywhere and it rode nicely in the field and on the road and didn't give the tractor too much grief.

When you compare contractor outfits today they are worlds apart. Often near double the power, on a larger framed machine and tyres to carry it all its easy to see where the workrate comes from today.

Tractor should not overheat unless doctored way over its original power, under any full load conditions. They are designed to work flat out under full load all day long even on the hottest days. His radiator must have been at least partially blocked. With a front mower, depending on grass condition, radiators may need to be blown out or cleared several times a day.

Plenty using 150 to 180 hp tractors on 6m combinations around here. About 33hp per metre of cut is ideal though in hilly conditions. Always has been. On the flat, at moderate speed in medium crops, 30hp per metre cut is fine. The contractor I use has a new combination of 6m working in heavy and steep conditions with only 26 engine hp per metre cut [160hp]. He runs at around 11kms/hr on the flat and may get down to 8kms/hr up hill. Still far more efficient than running a 3m machine at 13kms/hr all day with a 120hp tractor.

There are 9m butterfly combinations around here that are fitted to 240 and 260hp tractors which again gives between 26hp and 29hp/metre.
 
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Claas and McHale use the same Italian made cutterbar, with different hats and chassis obviously.
Krone have a superb safety feature for disc obstruction, where an easily replaceable roll pin shears and the disc spins up a thread, out of harm's way.
Vicon has a great cutterbar but traditionally is slightly too lightly built in the frame area.
Kuhn is exceptionally well proven and reliable but most of their mowers transport pointing backwards, which makes a very long unit.
RECO Fella is now a Massey Ferguson, or even a Fendt. Personally I'm not overly keen on its crown wheel and pinion, very deep cutterbar, but I have zero experience on which to base this opinion.

Mchale use samasz beds.
Also available with a roll pin system afaik.
Claas moved to there own bed a few years ago?
I'm where the roll pin wins is if something was to get jamed between the two disks
 

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