Class Rollant 46

Tha Ulsterscot · May 20, 2015

Trying to sort out a problem and need a bit of help. When I pressurise the back door of the baler, she does not hold the pressure on the door. The pressure gauge drops almost to zero. This happened towards the end of baling last year, but if you kept pressing the valve lever, as you made the first bale, it eventually locked and worked normally. I've checked the rams which seem OK, and took the spring out of the check valve on the side of the baler, again this seems to be OK. Anyone experience this problem before ,and how was it sorted? Thanks . Tha Ulsterscot.

Goweresque · May 20, 2015

Does the 46 actually have a lock on it, or is it like the 44 which relies on the oil pressure to hold the door shut all the time? Had the same problem on our old 44 back in the day, had the rams resealed which helped (they can still be leaking even if they seem to operate the back door OK without obvious dropping). The valve blocks are notorious for leaking, regrinding the seal can help apparently, and I seem to remember there was a guy advertising a replacement system using off the shelf hydraulic fittings - the purpose of the valve block should be replicable using standard parts - its all just a case of non return valves and pressure reliefs etc. Buying a new one from Claas is a no go, about £1k I think.

Edit: there's a useful thread over on the 'Other Place' here:

http://farmingforum.co.uk/forums/sh...Rollant-46-Baler-Pressure-Problem-Help-Please

highland-man · May 20, 2015

That thread was my baler , its worth a read as there was 2 things wrong with my baler it turned out and even just one of them will cause your issue.

gone up the hill · May 20, 2015

Tha Ulsterscot said:
Trying to sort out a problem and need a bit of help. When I pressurise the back door of the baler, she does not hold the pressure on the door. The pressure gauge drops almost to zero. This happened towards the end of baling last year, but if you kept pressing the valve lever, as you made the first bale, it eventually locked and worked normally. I've checked the rams which seem OK, and took the spring out of the check valve on the side of the baler, again this seems to be OK. Anyone experience this problem before ,and how was it sorted? Thanks . Tha Ulsterscot.

Yep I have always had this problem with the two class 46's I have owned, it will be the valve block that is faulty, as said above they are 1K + from a dealer, I just drove around it, the door will stay shut, all you need to do is give the lever a press now and again, I wouldn't worry to much about it, I must have baled 80k bales with this problem and if you do the above it should be okay.

gone up the hill · May 20, 2015

highland-man said:
That thread was my baler , its worth a read as there was 2 things wrong with my baler it turned out and even just one of them will cause your issue.

What were the two issues??

Tha Ulsterscot · May 20, 2015

Thanks Growesque, that is exactly my problem, so I will try the remedies mentioned, and let you know the outcome.

ridger · May 20, 2015

Do you have to put bearings in the rollers often? Nothing to do with your post I realise but just wondering!

Tha Ulsterscot · May 20, 2015

ridger said:
Do you have to put bearings in the rollers often? Nothing to do with your post I realise but just wondering!

Only had to do one Roller so far, but we are usually baling very dry Haylage, hay and a bit of silage.

ridger · May 20, 2015

Tha Ulsterscot said:
Only had to do one Roller so far, but we are usually baling very dry Haylage, hay and a bit of silage.

I had 3 rollers rumbling in my baler so changed them, hopefully that does it for the year, how much do you day the haulage? I was thinking mow out flat after lunch, leave 24 hours, row up and bale. Or would it need more work?

highland-man · May 21, 2015

gone up the hill said:
What were the two issues??

A broken spring inside a valve which was inside one of the rams and the valve block needed reground with engine paste. She was perfect after that.

hillman · May 21, 2015

@Tha Ulsterscot how many bales an hour off haylage and what size swarths do you pick up after ?

gone up the hill · May 21, 2015

highland-man said:
A broken spring inside a valve which was inside one of the rams and the valve block needed reground with engine paste. She was perfect after that.

How difficult a job was it to reground with engine paste?

gone up the hill · May 21, 2015

hillman said:
@Tha Ulsterscot how many bales an hour off haylage and what size swarths do you pick up after ?

Behind a decent rake and decent size fields should be possible to do 50 an hour, I would work on a average of 45, if a haybob then half those rates...

Local chap to me had a 255, reckon he could do 75 average/ hour... couldn't work it out until I bought some wrapped ones he had baled.... he was starting the net when the bale was only 2/3rds full!!

highland-man · May 22, 2015

Our local engineer did it for me. Got it back the same day but can't comment on how easy or difficult it is. Certainly didn't take long.

Tha Ulsterscot · Jun 18, 2019

Four years on and the problem has returned.
Last time I had to put a new valve kit inside the relief valve. Think it cost over 300 quid, so will try some other solutions this time. I even tried using another DA valve on the tractor but that made no difference. :scratchhead:

Still Farming · Jun 18, 2019

Keep pressurized now and then.

gone up the hill · Jun 18, 2019

Tha Ulsterscot said:
Four years on and the problem has returned.
Last time I had to put a new valve kit inside the relief valve. Think it cost over 300 quid, so will try some other solutions this time. I even tried using another DA valve on the tractor but that made no difference.

Problem will be on the baler and not the tractor!

I have the same problem with mine now, have swapped the valve block with one off the old baler and it wasn't that, the light on the control box comes on most of the time but not always, so its either an electrical problem or im losing oil pressure somewhere, doesn't affect the bale density/ size so I just drive on, its like looking for a needle in a haystack.

Pistonbroke · Jun 19, 2019

Could be ram seals losing pressure. Make sure they are genuine class seals if they are replaced,they are a lot tougher material than normal. There are several o rings in the valve block that can be replaced for a few pence. I was lucky to have an independent fitter who cut his teeth on early class kit and would fix instead of replacing the unit. Get Rams checked first.

Pistonbroke · Jun 19, 2019

Just thought,has yours got relief valves on the Rams? Ours didn't but neighbour did and his started letting go early

Tha Ulsterscot · Jun 19, 2019

Mine has no valves on the rams. Not holding the pressure today at all.

Class Rollant 46

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