Class Rollant 46

Trying to sort out a problem and need a bit of help. When I pressurise the back door of the baler, she does not hold the pressure on the door. The pressure gauge drops almost to zero. This happened towards the end of baling last year, but if you kept pressing the valve lever, as you made the first bale, it eventually locked and worked normally. I've checked the rams which seem OK, and took the spring out of the check valve on the side of the baler, again this seems to be OK. Anyone experience this problem before ,and how was it sorted? Thanks . Tha Ulsterscot.
 

Goweresque

Member
Location
North Wilts
Does the 46 actually have a lock on it, or is it like the 44 which relies on the oil pressure to hold the door shut all the time? Had the same problem on our old 44 back in the day, had the rams resealed which helped (they can still be leaking even if they seem to operate the back door OK without obvious dropping). The valve blocks are notorious for leaking, regrinding the seal can help apparently, and I seem to remember there was a guy advertising a replacement system using off the shelf hydraulic fittings - the purpose of the valve block should be replicable using standard parts - its all just a case of non return valves and pressure reliefs etc. Buying a new one from Claas is a no go, about £1k I think.

Edit: there's a useful thread over on the 'Other Place' here:

http://farmingforum.co.uk/forums/sh...Rollant-46-Baler-Pressure-Problem-Help-Please
 
Location
Devon
Trying to sort out a problem and need a bit of help. When I pressurise the back door of the baler, she does not hold the pressure on the door. The pressure gauge drops almost to zero. This happened towards the end of baling last year, but if you kept pressing the valve lever, as you made the first bale, it eventually locked and worked normally. I've checked the rams which seem OK, and took the spring out of the check valve on the side of the baler, again this seems to be OK. Anyone experience this problem before ,and how was it sorted? Thanks . Tha Ulsterscot.

Yep I have always had this problem with the two class 46's I have owned, it will be the valve block that is faulty, as said above they are 1K + from a dealer, I just drove around it, the door will stay shut, all you need to do is give the lever a press now and again, I wouldn't worry to much about it, I must have baled 80k bales with this problem and if you do the above it should be okay.
 
Location
Devon
@Tha Ulsterscot how many bales an hour off haylage and what size swarths do you pick up after ?


Behind a decent rake and decent size fields should be possible to do 50 an hour, I would work on a average of 45, if a haybob then half those rates...

Local chap to me had a 255, reckon he could do 75 average/ hour... couldn't work it out until I bought some wrapped ones he had baled.... he was starting the net when the bale was only 2/3rds full!!
 
Four years on and the problem has returned.
Last time I had to put a new valve kit inside the relief valve. Think it cost over 300 quid, so will try some other solutions this time. I even tried using another DA valve on the tractor but that made no difference.:scratchhead::scratchhead:
 
Location
Devon
Four years on and the problem has returned.
Last time I had to put a new valve kit inside the relief valve. Think it cost over 300 quid, so will try some other solutions this time. I even tried using another DA valve on the tractor but that made no difference.:scratchhead::scratchhead:


Problem will be on the baler and not the tractor!

I have the same problem with mine now, have swapped the valve block with one off the old baler and it wasn't that, the light on the control box comes on most of the time but not always, so its either an electrical problem or im losing oil pressure somewhere, doesn't affect the bale density/ size so I just drive on, its like looking for a needle in a haystack.
 
Could be ram seals losing pressure. Make sure they are genuine class seals if they are replaced,they are a lot tougher material than normal. There are several o rings in the valve block that can be replaced for a few pence. I was lucky to have an independent fitter who cut his teeth on early class kit and would fix instead of replacing the unit. Get Rams checked first.
 
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