Can you fit a Ripvator type forklift to a MF35?

glasshouse

Member
Location
lothians
Thank you, it has one pipe to one ram.

Am I right in thinking the diverter valve has two positions, one position allows only the arms to operate and the other only the ram. If so it will be what I’m after.
You need to be able to use arms at same time to vary the tilt of the mast, do diverter needs to be a lever
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
a proper MF one has positions,
center position is arms and tipping pipe, will work the easiest option,
move to the left, and will lock arms, (but due to leaks will drop) and works tipping pipe,
move to the right, and it will keep correcting the leaky arms and keep to the top every time you lift hyd lever, and raise the fork lift, on lowering the leaver it will drop the fork lift, but not the arms, (leaks will let them down)
 
I bought a second hand Ripvator forklift back in the late seventies. It came with a double acting top link, for tilting and a single acting lifting ram, both fed from a twin spool valve on the machine. It only required a flow and return from the tractor. The wheels will take the weight, but you will need stabiliser bars to hold the link arms steady.

I welded an Accord triangle on mine to make hitching on and off easier. That was after I dispensed with the spool block and used the spools on the tractor. That meant that the hydraulic top link stayed on the tractor and was therefore available for other uses. That was the first hydraulic top link that I had, the first of several.

The forklift handled hundreds of tons of fertilizer on pallets until I bought a JCB Loadall.
 
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Kidds

Member
Horticulture
a proper MF one has positions,
center position is arms and tipping pipe, will work the easiest option,
move to the left, and will lock arms, (but due to leaks will drop) and works tipping pipe,
move to the right, and it will keep correcting the leaky arms and keep to the top every time you lift hyd lever, and raise the fork lift, on lowering the leaver it will drop the fork lift, but not the arms, (leaks will let them down)
If that’s how they work then that will do and I can cope.
I’m very used to using one so know what to expect
Thanks
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
If that’s how they work then that will do and I can cope.
I’m very used to using one so know what to expect
Thanks
That is how they work,
And as for using it like the above, it would be best to use the draft control lever for operation of the hydraulic lift and the forks, I will explain,
On the draft control lever quadrant about 1/4 way down from the top there should be 2 lines across the band width, stamped in to the plate steel,
Now position the draft lever or round knob lever between the marks, and the position square lever in the raised position at the top, you can use the draft side as a sort of spool as it were,
if you place the lever between the marks that will be the hold position,
If you move the lever forward an inch, or just so it's outside the marks it will drop the hydraulics, back to between the marks to hold, and move it backwards an inch just outside the marks will lift the hydraulics, once lifted to were you want to be , move back to between the marks for hold position,
You would have to move the dirvertor valve to select arms or tipping pipe as needed, and internal leaks could be a problem with dropping,

All of the above works like this ONLY if the hydraulic system is set up correctly,
Wear on the internal linkage and leaks may work like a bag of shite
So be wary of this
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
if you place the lever between the marks that will be the hold position,
If you move the lever forward an inch, or just so it's outside the marks it will drop the hydraulics, back to between the marks to hold, and move it backwards an inch just outside the marks will lift the hydraulics, once lifted to were you want to be , move back to between the marks for hold position,
You would have to move the dirvertor valve to select arms or tipping pipe as needed, and internal leaks could be a problem with dropping,

All of the above works like this ONLY if the hydraulic system is set up correctly,
Wear on the internal linkage and leaks may work like a bag of shite
So be wary of this
Be very careful with this. What you say is entirely correct but any load on the top link may vary the hydraulic flow dependant on draft lever neutral position.
Also the MF diverter valve, bolted to the top cover below your left leg, allows the links to rise when the hydraulics are pressurised, at least in one of its two diverting positions.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Be very careful with this. What you say is entirely correct but any load on the top link will vary the hydraulic flow.
Also the MF diverter valve, bolted to the top cover below your left leg, allows the links to rise when the hydraulics are pressurised, at least in one of its two diverting positions.
really speaking its a no gower from the offset, and is highly dangerous to put a forklift of this type on a 35,
I was only trying to help the op, in the best way possible to lesson the danger, as I can see he will do it anyway, it is something I would not attempt doing, any anyone that does has no regard for there own safety never mind the safety of others
 

Kidds

Member
Horticulture
So, after all that is it a yes or no?
All I am trying to do is lift a bulk bin that weighs about 250kg and move it in a straight line on concrete about 10 yards onto the bin tipper, a height of 2’ max.
It sounds like if I’m careful it will be ok but if I’m off down the field with it it’s not safe. There will not be anybody else anywhere near.
I’m trying to find a solution to the above, this was one option I was considering, another was one of those manual lifts but they are no safer and I don’t think it works in this situation. I will keep thinking.
 

7610 super q

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
Could just buy a Tomlin type 3 point linkage set of forks, with a hydraulic top link to level the bin to put onto the bin tipper ( use a single acting ram, and use the trailer tipping pipe ). TBH, I can't see anyone coming to any harm moving 250 kg with the Ripvator as long as it still has its weight transfer wheels.
 

Wellytrack

Member
I'll be honest I know nothing about the internal function of draft control on a 35 but I would have thought the safest and best way would be through a spool block valve with free flow return, won't be expensive and should be secure.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
Could just buy a Tomlin type 3 point linkage set of forks, with a hydraulic top link to level the bin to put onto the bin tipper ( use a single acting ram, and use the trailer tipping pipe ). TBH, I can't see anyone coming to any harm moving 250 kg with the Ripvator as long as it still has its weight transfer wheels.
This would require a selector[diverter] valve to be used every time the control was changed from links to spool and vice-versa. Plus the draft control raised to provide external oil. It's a complete faff on these tractor models through to 100 series and even basic 200 series unless it is a multi-power with working auxiliary pump, which is unlikely.
 
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