Virtual Ploughing Tuition

wuddy

wuddy

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Fergie Ploughman said:
More accepted in classic than vintage. its yet another thing to do and forget to put back to normal when your ploughing. I think you can do a perfectly acceptable split without lifting your leg. Its also yet another mod that takes the plough away from what was originally manufactured, I’m not a great fan of it...
Click to expand...
Ransomes didn’t build ts54 and 59’s as match ploughs we are just fine tuning them!!! Yes you can do openings and crowns without lifting it, I don’t think Richard moves his at all and he is at the top of the tree most times!!! I don’t lift mine at the finish, more because I’m usually running out of time at our local matches. Their time is an hour less compared to the sop times!
 
Howard150

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
As said earlier in this post you can get too much of a good thing. In real terms the least you can get realistically is 25mm. On an 86 the least you can get by welding a slip on the top is about 52 which is far far too much to plough with. Fine for the first run to get the front body up out of the way but that's all.

The logic behind lifting legs is to keep the plough frame closer to the transverse angle of the frame during normal ploughing whilst ploughing two different depth furrows. The mechanics of this means that the boards maintain a similar pressure on the furrows throughout the plot. The big thing to remember here is that there are two adjustments on a mounted plough that control the relative depth of the front and back furrows. The levelling box and the top link. These both still come into play even more so if you lift the leg. What this means is that most folk simply use the levelling box to control the differing depth the two bodies plough at. Having lifted the front leg /lowered the back leg, when ploughing shallow the body ploughing deepest will dominate. You are already ploughing down wing and any attempt to deepen the front body with the levelling box will result in (worst case scenario)the plough riding out and running off to land.

I still think the best finishes are got when you can lift the front leg by the prescribed amount. It allows for more meat in the sole furrow. Again it can be problematic, mainly in that the back mouldboard can be fighting unploughed ground which was underneath the front furrow.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Tonym

Tonym

Member
Location
Shropshire
⁹
Cordiale said:
Any pictures that you can show us please, Tonym?
Click to expand...
20200510_105210.jpg
Sorry picture is a bit dark. The slots lift the leg 75mm for the first run and using the lower hole gives a 25mm lift. The main advantage is it gives a straight lift without affecting the width of the furrow slice. using 5he lifting box to get a 25mm lift will also considerably alter the width as well so you have to compensate for this as well.

20200510_105210.jpg
 
C

Cordiale

Member
Tonym said:
⁹
View attachment 877369
Sorry picture is a bit dark. The slots lift the leg 75mm for the first run and using the lower hole gives a 25mm lift. The main advantage is it gives a straight lift without affecting the width of the furrow slice. using 5he lifting box to get a 25mm lift will also considerably alter the width as well so you have to compensate for this as well.

View attachment 877369
Click to expand...
Thanks, Tonym. Much appreciated.
After studying your photos I am surprised more people haven't done the same.
 
Last edited:
arcobob

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
As we all know it is easy to have senior moments and forget to reset alterations and forgetting to drop the leg again can have some dire consequences , especially in hard ground.
 
arcobob

arcobob

Member
Location
Norfolk
As we all know it is easy to have senior moments and forget to reset alterations and forgetting to drop the leg again can have some dire consequences , especially in hard ground.
Howard150 said:
As said earlier in this post you can get too much of a good thing. In real terms the least you can get realistically is 25mm. On an 86 the least you can get by welding a slip on the top is about 52 which is far far too much to plough with. Fine for the first run to get the front body up out of the way but that's all.

The logic behind lifting legs is to keep the plough frame closer to the transverse angle of the frame during normal ploughing whilst ploughing two different depth furrows. The mechanics of this means that the boards maintain a similar pressure on the furrows throughout the plot. The big thing to remember here is that there are two adjustments on a mounted plough that control the relative depth of the front and back furrows. The levelling box and the top link. These both still come into play even more so if you lift the leg. What this means is that most folk simply use the levelling box to control the differing depth the two bodies plough at. Having lifted the front leg /lowered the back leg, when ploughing shallow the body ploughing deepest will dominate. You are already ploughing down wing and any attempt to deepen the front body with the levelling box will result in (worst case scenario)the plough riding out and running off to land.

I still think the best finishes are got when you can lift the front leg by the prescribed amount. It allows for more meat in the sole furrow. Again it can be problematic, mainly in that the back mouldboard can be fighting unploughed ground which was underneath the front furrow.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Spot on.
 
C

Cordiale

Member
arcobob said:
As we all know it is easy to have senior moments and forget to reset alterations and forgetting to drop the leg again can have some dire consequences , especially in hard ground.
Click to expand...
I too have senior moments Bob. At one match I couldn't work out why the furrows weren't matching up, I tried altering the front furrow depth/top link length all to no avail, then like someone had smacked me in the face, I realised I had not pushed the back board to its normal setting after the opening.
I now intend to make some checklists that I can go through at each stage, to make sure I have done all the adjustments at the right time!
 
Ley253

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
Cordiale said:
I too have senior moments Bob. At one match I couldn't work out why the furrows weren't matching up, I tried altering the front furrow depth/top link length all to no avail, then like someone had smacked me in the face, I realised I had not pushed the back board to its normal setting after the opening.
I now intend to make some checklists that I can go through at each stage, to make sure I have done all the adjustments at the right time!
Click to expand...
Like a pilots list! Its the only way I can be sure of doing everything, mine are laminated, and I can tick items off with a chinagraph as they are done.
 
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