Steevo
Member
- Location
- Gloucestershire
What model and year
CX8060 2007
What model and year
What jump lead points do you have then? My CX has a + and -, it reads 12v across them... so if I have jump leads on am i connected to both batteries?My cr has 2 batteries with 3 charging terminals the decal on the battery tray explains how to charge them up
I believe on a 24 volt system that the alternator charges one up first then once that is full it charges the second so if you do a number of starts but only run it for a short time one battery gets low and it does not have enough to charge to start it especially if it has got cold ( under 10 c )
Maybe you have a drain somewhere? But would have thought if the isolator is working correctly it'd be fine. Started my CX 6080 up the other day, expected the batteries to be flat/low but she spun over fine, no issue. You'd have never of known she had sat there for three months not used.Thank you, I appreciate that. Where are you "based"?
It's interesting to hear I'm not the only one who has battery issues with NH combines.
Have sent you a PM.@Steevo if you need any help call me.
Couple of batteries may only cost £200 max. I know it seems a waste but sometimes easiest to treat as expendable on a combine given their lifestyle. Buy two before harvest and they should last 3-4 years at worst.
Get yourselves a 24V CTEK charger and avoid all this grief.
I may be wrong, as I am working from a few years back.
do these combines use Fiat engines?
if so, they used to use a system which switch the polarity round on one battery during starting to give 24 volts. This has a huge advantage as the Starters motors and wiring required is far smaller, all round for this heavy load.
obviously this 24 volts can only travel in a dedicated circuit as it would blow anything designed for 12 volts to pieces.
so during startting the power for the rest of the system comes off one battery, charging and everything else is 12 volt.
Not sure it's quite that simple.
It's not a 24v system like a lorry would be - it's a mix and match of 12v and 24v.
Separate them and get two CTEK chargers.
Are you sure you mean the isolater? They need a continuous feed to the electrics, or you will have endless problems there.Afternoon, thought I’d seen a thread about it somewhere, has anyone got a photo of the correct way to wire up the battery isolator? Pretty sure mines wrong as it’s drained 2 new batteries since January.. cheers
You need 24 volt at the starter when you turn the key, it would appear the changeover switch is not workingI’ve got power and the relays click when I turn the key.. full 12v but won’t even attempt to start , any idea ?