Steel frame spec for house

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
Floor slab could be interesting. Decent slab that could have insulation and screed on top. But what about internal drainage when you don’t know where it would be going. I suppose you could just cut slab where any would go. There wouldn’t be many in the ground floor any way.
 

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Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
Don’t worry about the drains they can be core drilled and cut in at the time of conversion , the main thing is having a floor slab 200 mm thick and reinforced to take the liner load of any internal walls , Make sure there is adequate bracing in the building as if it’s insufficient at the time of planning ( part Q) you will struggle and structural elements can’t be added , consider a portal brace in side elevation if diagonal braces will impede any future doors or Windows
 
Don’t worry about the drains they can be core drilled and cut in at the time of conversion , the main thing is having a floor slab 200 mm thick and reinforced to take the liner load of any internal walls , Make sure there is adequate bracing in the building as if it’s insufficient at the time of planning ( part Q) you will struggle and structural elements can’t be added , consider a portal brace in side elevation if diagonal braces will impede any future doors or Windows
Does the frame need overspeccing? I have a small 30x20 to put up and can’t decide if to just have it all made out of 10x6 for the size it is. Same on eaves ties like yours with girders. Would make a small lovely bungalow or holiday let in years to come.

8mm mesh on 200mm conc be enough?
 
Does the frame need overspeccing? I have a small 30x20 to put up and can’t decide if to just have it all made out of 10x6 for the size it is. Same on eaves ties like yours with girders. Would make a small lovely bungalow or holiday let in years to come.

8mm mesh on 200mm conc be enough?
The thing to be aware of with footings or floor slabs you might build off later is not only the construction of them but what they are sat on. Whatever you do take plenty pics during construction as they may help avoid having to dig test holes later.
 

Old apprentice

Member
Arable Farmer
Do the steel work well as other essential have said and photo foundation for steel uprights make bigger than required and keep measurements. But iwould not put a deep reinforced floor in just gravel or 75 to 100 mm of concreat if you require concrete floor . The idea is that you could put ground forse floor heating under like a fridge in reverse and sola panels to run all the heating and light extra plus a battery system and no larg bills in latter life.
 

S J H

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Bedfordshire
Er, that was the question! What spec building etc

It would be a conversion, like this https://www.gilmartins.co.uk/potters-bar-barn-conversion although that is concrete frame rather than steel.

Some clear side sheets might be a good idea.
I’ll look into concrete pad size.
Roof pitch is something I haven’t thought about. Might be better slightly steeper although have planning now so would need to be changed unless I just tweaked it a few degrees.
its 20’ to eaves so plenty of height to get floor levels right in the future.
Thanks for the input
I don't know for your area but for bedford borough, you don't need to submit drawings for permitted planning, only state eaves and ridge height so they might not notice a higher roof pitch, will make all the difference for a house though, and I'd allow some overhang on the eaves and gables
 

Mark C

Member
Location
Bedfordshire
Give amontillado Engineering in Gamlingay near Sandy a call. They have just put up a very ‘barn style ‘ ag building for a friend that’s ripe for conversion into a dwelling. Nice pitch , roof overhangs etc
 

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
Does the frame need overspeccing? I have a small 30x20 to put up and can’t decide if to just have it all made out of 10x6 for the size it is. Same on eaves ties like yours with girders. Would make a small lovely bungalow or holiday let in years to come.

8mm mesh on 200mm conc be enough?
254x146 posts , rafters 178x102 12mm end plates 89D wind braces and ties adequate to get you through structural calcs 15 mm base plates and M24 holding down bolts x4 per base Everything needs minimum 2X M 20! bolt connections,The eaves ties and wall restraints on ours are 152x152 x 30 to allow 150x 48 timber studs to be notched in to them they have a drain hole drilled in the bottom to allow any condensation to drain into cavity and cavity tray although this is very unlikely also each timber is sat on 8mm galvanised shim plate with a square of DPM on again for the same reason and the vertical cavity is open at the top to airflow within the roof space,
 

Still Farming

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
South Wales UK
I have planning for 80’ x 40’ steel frame Storage shed. Happens to be located where it would be a great place to have a house in a few(10) years time. It may never happen but if it does would be useful if there are any features that could be included in the build in the first instance that would be useful for its potential second use. Any recommendations? Simple things really as it’s not worth spending a lot more at this stage.
House grade floor with thick dpc and insulation and steel possibly??
Foot thick spec.
They will make you rip up if not atleast 6 inch insulation ,1200 dpc and 4 inch concrete and 2 inch finished floor possibly?
 
Last edited:
254x146 posts , rafters 178x102 12mm end plates 89D wind braces and ties adequate to get you through structural calcs 15 mm base plates and M24 holding down bolts x4 per base Everything needs minimum 2X M 20! bolt connections,The eaves ties and wall restraints on ours are 152x152 x 30 to allow 150x 48 timber studs to be notched in to them they have a drain hole drilled in the bottom to allow any condensation to drain into cavity and cavity tray although this is very unlikely also each timber is sat on 8mm galvanised shim plate with a square of DPM on again for the same reason and the vertical cavity is open at the top to airflow within the roof space,
Thankyou very much.
 
254x146 posts , rafters 178x102 12mm end plates 89D wind braces and ties adequate to get you through structural calcs 15 mm base plates and M24 holding down bolts x4 per base Everything needs minimum 2X M 20! bolt connections,The eaves ties and wall restraints on ours are 152x152 x 30 to allow 150x 48 timber studs to be notched in to them they have a drain hole drilled in the bottom to allow any condensation to drain into cavity and cavity tray although this is very unlikely also each timber is sat on 8mm galvanised shim plate with a square of DPM on again for the same reason and the vertical cavity is open at the top to airflow within the roof space,
I’m looking at 22.5 pitch too to make it look better
 

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