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Much prefer the zig zag style tines, they don’t last as well but vertical tines rake up too much trash and leave lumps of it on the headland. Zig zags also help to push a bit of soil into the slot if conditions aren’t as good as they could be.

Could well have been, either that or 1 blocked and boom very low? Either way it looked like something worth avoiding.

Thanks, I had wondered whether we’d be able to get enough angle to cover the whole section and also whether the picture quality is good enough. I’ll get one I think and have a play about.

My neighbour had lovely green stripes all through his sprayed off barley volunteers last autumn where a nozzle blocked on the centre section, that’s a reduction in efficacy! I just like the idea for peace of mind really, the kits not expensive so I’m just curious to see if it works.

I’m toying with the idea of fitting a camera to the back of the sprayer so I can keep an eye on the nozzles that can’t be seen from the cab. Just wondering if anyone else has done this and if/how well it works?

Same as above, I find they bend. They’re particularly bad when cooling stuff coming off the drier, they soften up and the weight of the fan can cause the join to come apart.

Yes they work well, I’ve not had issues with it riding out, the suspension units would likely trip rather than that happening I suspect.

Yes, the whole disc unit fits into the original toolbar un-altered. We had some spare rams from the marker arms which I used as the lift/lower. I built the disc units myself using 20mm plate for the disc arms. The rubber suspension units and preformed brackets came from agri-linc. The discs...

Hi there, i basically added a toolbar which fits into the existing cultivation tine holders on the drill. It’s worth saying that one of the first things we did was to widen the drilling tine spacing out to 166mm as this makes a big difference to trash flow. Also, had we stuck with 125mm the...

Elgar 3.8, Barbados 3.95, Dk imperial 2.96. Overall that’s 3.6t/ha over the weigh bridge. Not exciting but with a low input spend and prices going the right way it will probably still be the best payer.

Spoke to agricycle today and they will still be collecting from down here for the same cost apparently.

Read the bumf on this earlier and it claims to add yield to pretty much every crop, apparently backed up by independent trials too. It makes no mention of what's actually in it though but my guess would be trace elements added to a molasses, bacteria, fungi etc, etc. Apparently a couple of...

I'm making a start today. The weather looks set to break at the weekend and another couple of weeks of mild growing weather and it could be too late for some of mine.

I think it starts from the top down so I try and communicate what we're trying to achieve, regularly check work and then discuss what I like/what could be improved. If a standard is set then it becomes a matter of pride in always achieving it, there's also more scope for people to think for...

Five quid max, but it would need to be good.

Got the same here in some wheat. It looks like herbicide damage, liberator plus pdm, but all the patches are under trees so I'm assuming it is herbicide damage but brought about by stress due to lack of moisture.

Oats are very short this year. Lots usually get grown in Scandinavia and their summer was like ours so yields suffered correspondingly. Traders I've spoken to in my area haven't seen many spring oats above 47 spec weight, most are lower, some are mid to low 30's. Hence the price difference.

Price difference this year between milling and feed is about sixty quid. It's cheaper for me to buy full spec winters and blend them with my springs than to just take the knock sending them as feed. I still lose money, just not as much.

Easy to grow, cheap, and when they're good they're really good. The downside is that in a year like this when specific weights are low you end up with a pile of near worthless rubbish. Doesn't happen often but when it does......

I reckon we're about 80-90% farm saved most years, I only buy in for new varieties or if I've had to make cropping changes and don't already grow the crop. I've never understood buying 100% new seed. It's a bit like spending ages rearing a bull that's full of all the genetic potential you desire...