Yes the liners will put out, you may have to make a puller to do the job.
IF you are very lucky and using a piece of hard wood, you can knock them out from below if not too tight.
Once the liners are out check the groove where the o rings sit for damage to the engine block.
Why not just replace like for like ? Do you actually need the extra flow ?
IF you fit the high speed gear to an earlier tractor you will get more hydraulic noise, also if your tractor hasn't had a new transfer pump recently it would be a very good idea to fit one IF you go down the high speed...
That would
That would make sense, I always worked on IH/CaseIH kit personally
Anyway we sold quite a few MXM 155s and others, I was certainly not impressed by the build quality.
Loads of problems with switches and sensors, leaking pipes, the range shift potentiometers which invariably lead to...
Another shout for Shiremoor compressors, they've been around a very long time now and will give you good advice.
https://www.shiremoorcompressors.co.uk/
Yes, small gauze filters on the banjos that go into the bottom of the tanks.
Also make sure the breather tubes are kinked or blocked, they come off the top of the tanks.
If you want cut the banjo filters off and fit an inline filter that's easier to change.
If you are continuing to struggle let me know, I'll have electrical diagrams somewhere in my training manuals.
You say the orange lamp doesn't come on ? Have you checked the bulb or to see if there 12 volt going to the bulb ?
Pete
I found an old 84 series service engineers hand book.
This page has the information I was on about.
Height of lift arm pin centers.
It's also giving the length of the linkages for position and draft.
Basically set the linkage length, lift arms fully up on position lever, draft lever fully...
Exactly that Pete 👍
I mean don't get me wrong, there's a proper way to set them up by the book but I can't remember off the top of my head and I don't have a manual.
However that lift on the link arm ends is near enough, a safety margin.
You must not have the hitch rods attached though.
I'd disconnect the hitch rods first, lift the arm right up using the position control lever ( not the draft lever )
Having done this you should have roughly 1.5 inch lift at the link arm ends.
It could be a fault in the unloader valve or it could be general wear in the linkage and needing adjustment.
Has the problem just happened suddenly 🤔
This is the insides of the unloader valve.
Green is the piston and it has an orifice in it which can block.
Red is the piston seat and they can...
Hi
Yes, use original o rings and you'll be fine, some of these boxes of spurious o rings are truly awful quality unfortunately as well as probably not being the correct size.
The valve in question is called the unloader valve.
Very possible, although having fixed them ( IH and Claas dealer trained ) I found that 75% plus of Markant knotter faults were needle related, setting them is critical, the rest usually tucker finger adjustment or blunt/worn knotter knives.
However I don't think they are any worse than other...
Why not have a look at local schools/colleges to see if they do a basic auto electrical course ?
It would make life much easier once you get to grips with how to test voltage, ohms ( resistance ) and what to look for such as voltage drop etc.
Probably take you through relays and switches as...
I knew 1 customer who was very bad for leaving his combine in a field over winter.
Also he would almost always phone us at best the day before he wanted to cut asking if we could give it a quick once over service, I have taken calls from him saying he's starting cutting in the afternoon, can we...
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