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Assuming that working depth and speed is the same the fuel usage should be similar; I have found that a more powerful tractor throttled back can use less fuel than a smaller one working at full stick but if you are working at PTO revs then they will most likely be similar.

Assuming that you have a tyre size that was an original fitment I'd look in the instruction book or label on the door slam area.

Had three tankers in last 25 years. I take the slurry from a local pig farm and my average round trip is six miles and all have carried a boom of 12m or 16m and had filler arms. First was a Major 2600 gallon single axle, a good simple tanker but the single axle wasn't best suited to the amount...

Fear not: https://www.fentechagri.com/products/cultivators/ Fentech now produces the Tilso gear.

We covered a similar area here, interesting that no-till land went just fine, even in the odd bits with water standing in the wheelings. Decided to prioritise N over Polysulphate and did grass, winter barley and hungriest looking wheat. On my walk today one field of wheat that looked fine mid...

If you are using a tree shear you are presumably coppicing and that is ok until the end of March. Go figure.

I have recently changed to a front tank drill and on my Valtra T175 there is no front free flow return and seemingly no factory solution. In the end I ran a 3/4" hose to the back of the tractor and teed it in just in front of the rear 3/4" coupling so that the oil is filtered as it goes into the...

Been very pleased with my Wile 78, comes calibrated for a lot of crops. If I needed a new moisture meter I would be unlikely to buy anything else.

I looked into buying a Panda 4x4 last year as a family "pool" car. When I looked on Autotrader and started checking out MOT histories the suspension is clearly barely up to the job - rear shock absorber bushes every other year and front lower suspension arms every three years seemed pretty...

Depends on your tenancy agreement. I'm pretty sure ours says pest control is the tenant's responsibility. But if they are a good tenant it may be £70 well spent?

Normally I roll although I have learned that I can roll when I shouldn't; basically it needs to be dry enough to roll behind a drill in a tillage situation if I am going to roll.

I was told the other day that Land Cruisers are currently unavailable until the new model arrives; certainly not listed on NFU discounts.

4m Simtech.

My experience is with a tine drill. Generally 2nd wheat drilled with the tine drill establish better than min-tilled 2nd wheat although ultimately no yield difference one way or the other. My feeling is that the seed goes into clean soil with all the straw left on the surface. Pictures drilled...

The Welgar 830 is very wide, this is ours on the back of an 828. A 730 is the same baler with a narrower pickup.

My old 155-65 only does a few odd light. Earlier this year I used it one day and it was fine; started it a week later and the low transmission oil pressure warning light came on. Oil level seems fine. I suppose I ought to change the transmission oil filter as cheap and simple although it hasn't...

I find it pulls strongly enough and although I don't tow often I never find it insufficient. It is a very torquey relatively low revving engine with maximum power coming at 3,400 rpm. I have a cousin whose 17 plate icon manual is past 180,000 miles without any dramas.

I have had a 4m Simtech for 5 years and I have a 6m on order although it looks like it won't get here in time for autumn drilling. I am using it in an arable situation on heavy clay soil that works so nicely that it was planted to trees in the 19th century. The trees were removed in WW2 to lay...

I have Feeris here on heavy land, drilled 20/9/22, and 80% has bent over at the top node in the 25mm rain we had on Tuesday evening. Hopefully it will be in the shed by the close of play today.

One of my daughters friends has a Peugeot 107, might be 106 but the Aygo/C1 twin, with an auto and apparently it fine.