135, where do I start

[Splitpin]

Looking for some advise on what is the best way to start getting this back into shape. All the tinwork is knackered so that will be new. No sand blasting equipment so will be wire brush in the grinder. Is it best to get it into as many bits as possible for a clean up and paint. Engine sound so not touching that. All i have done is all the front axle bushes, brakes and rear linkage. cheers

 

[multi power]

What do you want to achieve? Something that looks shiny or something as it left the factory?

 

[Splitpin]

Just shiny will be fine

 

[Ley253]

Forget the wire brush and grinder, rust will be back in a couple of years if you go down that route. Get a man in to blast clean and prime it, paint will have a chance of staying on then.

 

[Splitpin]

I'd have to find a man and take it to them wouldn't I, or do people travel for that type of job

 

[Ley253]

They come to you, just need an area to work in, flat bit of yard or field will do.

 

[Splitpin]

Will look into it thanks. Do i need to strip it down any more

 

[Ley253]

Take the tank off, and anything that makes it hard to access places. Small items are best treated with Chemicals, Bilt Hamber de ox c, is extremely good, and bio degradable when finished with, its best used as a dip/soaking bath, so get the crystals not the gel version.
You will need to blank of any oil filler/ pipe line ends rad hose connections etc.

 

[Splitpin]

Reason I'm half trying to pull my finger out is we have the national vintage road run a stone's throw from here in march, can't see it happening but will try

 

[Ley253]

Where are you? Having it blast cleaned will save about a months hand cleaning time, painting can be done in couple of days, but beware of condensation, that ruined the paint on my 253, it looks ok, but has micro blister due to getting so wet a few days after painting.
When you get around to painting, get everything from the same manufacturer. You may get away with mixing manufactures products, but if there is a problem its very hard to sort out.A full strip and respray probably being required.I have used Vapomatic products for the last two paint jobs I have done, and am quite satisfied, I am not a painter, but managed a good finish without runs!

 

[rich8100]

Some come out to you. But a quick google search will bring any close to you up.

A 135 was my college machinery practical coursework. Complete strip and re build. Every thing got the treatment. There's not.much tin work that needs to be done at least. If you have a good compressor a needle gun will be able to tackle the axles. And heavy parts. Plus its cheaper.

 

[Splitpin]

Where are you? Having it blast cleaned will save about a months hand cleaning time, painting can be done in couple of days, but beware of condensation, that ruined the paint on my 253, it looks ok, but has micro blister due to getting so wet a few days after painting

Near honiton. Took mine to bits last winter so I'll be glad when it's done. Most of it fell off due to being on the scraper for 30years.

 

[John 1594]

Prepare for replacing every gasket and seal on it after you have shot blasted it

Shotblasting anything other than sheet metal or rough castings ought to be banned imo

firing high pressure sand at anything whats not metal is a sure fire way of ruining a previously oil tight tractor

myself, id strip the ancillaries off such as the starter, dash etc, then hire an industrial steam cleaner and clean it with that, get the chassis hot, then spray it all with neat TFR before washing it again, repeat until clean

 

[Boohoo]

Another 135 with good tinwork might be a good investment. I've never heard anything good about new, reproduction tinwork unless anyone can recommend a supplier?

 

[John 1594]

Another 135 with good tinwork might be a good investment. I've never heard anything good about new, reproduction tinwork unless anyone can recommend a supplier?

Hit and miss, some parts fit, some dont

either way, the gauge of steel used in replacement tinwork is half that of the original, and in most instances it simply doesnt look right even when its done, however good you may think you are with a spray gun

 

[devonshire farmer]

Near honiton. Took mine to bits last winter so I'll be glad when it's done. Most of it fell off due to being on the scraper for 30years.

Take the wheels and small bits to ics in cullompton and get them acid dipped and shot blasted and primer painted, very cheap!
Of course you will still need to do the main skid but may not be so bad with grinder and needle gun

 

[devonshire farmer]

http://www.industrialcoatingsupplies.co.uk/

 

[Mur Huwcun]

As said strip things like the front axle beam, stays, trackrods, footplates etc and take them to be shotblasted. Then degrease and steam clean the rest

 

[Splitpin]

Tractor is original to the farm so dont really want to go looking for another even if financially i may be better off. So what about the tinwork then, where would be the best place. What is vapormatic stuff like? Thanks for replies

 

[Timo@hattonfarms]

Tractor is original to the farm so dont really want to go looking for another even if financially i may be better off. So what about the tinwork then, where would be the best place. What is vapormatic stuff like? Thanks for replies

Agriline's stuff is mostly 2nd's, you'd be better of going to someone like old 20 parts or keep your eye on EBay quite a lot of original tin work gets on there