2 stroke oil, what have I done wrong

[Netherfield]

When buying a Stihl machine I got thrown in the deal Stihl oil, now used up and have bought some Oregon oil, 2 Echo and 1 Stihl don't like it, smoke like hell and one even oiled the plug.

Mixed by using the old Stihl bottle which has a measuring device on it, fill the measurer to the line and it's good for 5 litres of petrol, so I can't see how it's gone wrong.

I then made up a 1 litre mix with some 'Comma' oil from the garage and they all run fine on that mix.

 

[Badshot]

The rate per litre of petrol could be very different, meaning the measure on the Stihl bottle could be completely the wrong size.

You need to work out the dilution rate.

 

[Gormers]

Stihl 50:1
Some others 40:1

 

[Pistonbroke]

Stihl is very high spec,low ash and burns clean. My son's motocross bike had some full synthetic low ash oil with it when I bought it and and even if the mix wasn't accurate it started first kick with no smoke. Used some general purpose stuff afterwards and there was oil coming out of the silencer and it's more temperamental. Use the better stuff again and it clears out

 

[milkloss]

The stihl oil is 50:1 so I don't think there's anyway the new oil could have gone in too thick. Cheap oil is nasty...... blocks spark arrestors/exhausts etc....... I'd probably try and source another bottle of stihl oil tbh.

 

[Pistonbroke]

Look for oil with jaso fd on the spec.

 

[neilo]

The stihl oil is 50:1 so I don't think there's anyway the new oil could have gone in too thick. Cheap oil is nasty...... blocks spark arrestors/exhausts etc....... I'd probably try and source another bottle of stihl oil tbh.

Oregon oil won't be cheap though.

Is the machine not needing 50:1, rather than the specific oil? I have a Stihl chainsaw that stipulates 50:1 and a cheap Screwfix saw that stipulates 40:1. Both running fine on their respective concentrations on 'cheap' oil btw, not the same oil with Stihl on the drum. I could of course be wrong in that, and Stihl do actually own a refinery....

 

[PSQ]

Castor oil based 2 stroke can smoke and foul plugs if run at part load, but can make marginally more power in the right situation.
Fully synthetic should burn clean.

 

[Dave79]

Not being constructive at all, but you could buy some pre-mixed stihl petrol, a bargain at £5/l! (If you have more money than sense, that is!) apparently our forestry service is the biggest buyer of it! Tax dollars at work!

 

[Tony1989]

Always use the green Stihl HP super or the blue Husqvarna XP oil

 

[Tarw Coch]

Always use the green Stihl HP super or the blue Husqvarna XP oil

Hmmm, that’s interesting, I have a guy who does a bit of chainsaw work for me and he is adamant the red oil is crap and only wants blue or green, just about anything I see is red.

 

[Netherfield]

I should have said, all machines require 50:1 the Oregon bottle says suitable for all engines 25:1 and 50:1.

Both clearly say 100ml per 5 litres

 

[Steevo]

Hmmm, that’s interesting, I have a guy who does a bit of chainsaw work for me and he is adamant the red oil is crap and only wants blue or green, just about anything I see is red.

I never understand why people get fixated by colour. It’s far too simplistic imo. They could dye crap oil any colour they want and good oil just the same.

If Stihl and Husqvarna dyed all their oil red would he stop using it?

 

[Tarw Coch]

I never understand why people get fixated by colour. It’s far too simplistic imo. They could dye crap oil any colour they want and good oil just the same.

If Stihl and Husqvarna dyed all their oil red would he stop using it?

I quite agree but he knows more about saws than me............which really isn’t difficult. The Stihl oil I use is allways red.
That said , sometimes I do wonder how much he really knows although he doesn’t half go on a bit about saws, he claims to have had his husky specially imported from Canada as they’re better than anything they sell here.
He’s either very knowledgeable or.........

 

[Pistonbroke]

Part of the reason for the colour difference is to stop you putting straight petrol in by mistake. Red oil colours the mix more obviously than green/blue especially at weak mix

 

[Pistonbroke]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290755921657 this is what I'm using,started in the bike but use in everything now. Start better and no smoke

 

[Steevo]

Part of the reason for the colour difference is to stop you putting straight petrol in by mistake. Red oil colours the mix more obviously than green/blue especially at weak mix

Makes sense.

I can also see sense in having a red oil for petrol, and a green oil for the bar. Can't accidently get the two mixed up so easily then - I've seen it happen.

 

[Pistonbroke]

My grandfather was cutting his garden hedge once and refuelled and it wouldn't start. Spent an hour fiddling with it until I tried changing the fuel filter and found the tank full of bar oil?

 

[Nithsdale]

Oregon oil won't be cheap though.

Is the machine not needing 50:1, rather than the specific oil? I have a Stihl chainsaw that stipulates 50:1 and a cheap Screwfix saw that stipulates 40:1. Both running fine on their respective concentrations on 'cheap' oil btw, not the same oil with Stihl on the drum. I could of course be wrong in that, and Stihl do actually own a refinery....

Ignore what the engine says it needs.

Always mix 2stroke at what the rate the manufacturer says (on the oil bottle).


Cheap 2 stroke oil used here, all mixed to 50:1 as per the oil bottle. We are running Stihl chainsaws, Dolmar/Makita chainsaws, Kawasaki (WestMac) Strimmer from the 80's and a cheap Chinese top handle chainsaw which says it needs 25:1... all run perfect and no issues

 

[midlandslubricants]

Our Red 50:1 are semi or Fully Synthetic Polymers.....The Blue is a mineral base and only 25:1
Just makes it easier to identify as they don't mix.