2t Tow car longevity

JP1

Member
Livestock Farmer
Estate cars that mean a longer rear overhang are not the best for towing, more liable to sway and lift the front more if the load isnt correctly positioned.

Trailer at 85% of the car weight is considered to be the max, though not written in law.

Both points are not really valid - but that's just my 2p

If it says 2000kg you can easily tow 2000kg if you know what you're doing

That 85% nonsense comes from the caravan clique. They'd be safer
looking after their caravan nose weights in my book
 

Drillman

Member
Mixed Farmer
The thing to remember is cars are ok for pulling the tin tent now and again or doing the tip run with a little trailer. However sustained use on or near the max towing limit especially with livestock that have no respect of max noseweights etc will in time knacker suspension transmissions and probably crack of weaken subframes. I’ve seen it and know of a few reps who’s car boots wouldn’t open when a loaded trailer was hitched up in the past!

Cars are just not designed for sustained heavy towing. The ops manual will probably confirm this. Our Subaru one certainly does.

At end of the day you can’t beat having something where towing was a primary part of the design brief.
 

Lincsman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Both points are not really valid - but that's just my 2p

If it says 2000kg you can easily tow 2000kg if you know what you're doing

That 85% nonsense comes from the caravan clique. They'd be safer
looking after their caravan nose weights in my book

I dont deny it will tow it (Ford use a figure of something like setting off on a 10% hill at sea level to get the figure) its more how it handles, think long drawbars and pickup hitches., along with 10t trailers on grey fergies in tractor terms.

It can be done, but there is better ways.

Nearly every towbar i have seen the max is 100kg on the ball, how you keep that right with stock I dont know.
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
I dont deny it will tow it (Ford use a figure of something like setting off on a 10% hill at sea level to get the figure) its more how it handles, think long drawbars and pickup hitches., along with 10t trailers on grey fergies in tractor terms.

It can be done, but there is better ways.

Nearly every towbar i have seen the max is 100kg on the ball, how you keep that right with stock I dont know.

You don't and can't.

I had a towbar on my previous Honda and used it only once in 60,000 miles, and then with a new unladen 14ft dropside Ifor Williams for 35 miles. Enough for me to know that the clutch had a really hard time starting off uphill with just the 900kg unladen trailer behind. Forget it with cars that don't have a low range at anywhere near 2000kgs if hills and stopping and re-starting on hills is envisaged.
I have not fitted a hitch on my current Honda CRV or the XC90, thinking at the time that the Ford Ranger would be backed up with my Land Cruiser. Unfortunately the LC packed up soon after I got the Volvo and I haven't got round to fixing it yet. It may be that I never will.
 
Last edited:
You don't and can't.

I had a towbar on my previous Honda and used it only once in 60,000 miles, and then with a new unladen 14ft dropside Ifor Williams for 35 miles. Enough for me to know that the clutch had a really hard time starting off uphill with just the 900kg unladen trailer behind. Forget it with cars that don't have a low range at anywhere near 2000kgs if hills and stopping and re-starting on hills is envisaged.
I have not fitted a hitch on my current Honda CRV or the XC90, thinking at the time that the Ford Ranger would be backed up with my Land Cruiser. Unfortunately the LC packed up soon after I got the Volvo and I haven't got round to fixing it yet. It may be that I never will.

However, surely the vast majority of this weight bracket towing (I’m thinking of the caravaning community) is done with vehicles with no low box?

TSS
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
However, surely the vast majority of this weight bracket towing (I’m thinking of the caravaning community) is done with vehicles with no low box?

TSS
Yes, but they tend to be larger SUV’s or larger/heavier cars. Or automatics, which have the significant advantage of no clutch but with a torque converter.

Avoid DSG [dual clutch robotised manual] and CVT transmissions for towing, like the plague. That rules out almost all currently manufactured Subaru.
 
Yes, but they tend to be larger SUV’s or larger/heavier cars. Or automatics, which have the significant advantage of no clutch but with a torque converter.

Avoid DSG [dual clutch robotised manual] and CVT transmissions for towing, like the plague. That rules out almost all currently manufactured Subaru.

I think I have already ruled out Subaru based on their reportedly unreliable Diesel engine.

Thanks

TSS
 

JohnBoy

Member
I'm on my third 2T towing vehicle, had bigger yokes beforehand but never have livestock so it wasnt worth it for the one or two times a year I'd decide to buy something I shouldnt (also buy less stupid stuff if you've no way of dragging it home)

Had a Mk3 Rav4 which was a gutsy little thing, followed by a mk2 Xtrail which was only ok at towing, lacked torque which you could drive around, had very soft rear suspension and the brakes were the same as a 1.5 quashqai. I ran uprated boy racer brakes in my soccer mom SUV to counter their inadequate size. Now driving a current model Outlander which is very much tuned for low revs so loves the trailer, has much better rear suspension so more stable and has no braking issues. More economical too, I measured on a run of 60 miles with a tonne behind, mix of hilly and flat doing 60 on the motorway (shhhhh) it did 30mpg which I think is ok for a car with a twin axle trailer out back.
 

Highland Mule

Member
Livestock Farmer
I'm on my third 2T towing vehicle, had bigger yokes beforehand but never have livestock so it wasnt worth it for the one or two times a year I'd decide to buy something I shouldnt (also buy less stupid stuff if you've no way of dragging it home)

Had a Mk3 Rav4 which was a gutsy little thing, followed by a mk2 Xtrail which was only ok at towing, lacked torque which you could drive around, had very soft rear suspension and the brakes were the same as a 1.5 quashqai. I ran uprated boy racer brakes in my soccer mom SUV to counter their inadequate size. Now driving a current model Outlander which is very much tuned for low revs so loves the trailer, has much better rear suspension so more stable and has no braking issues. More economical too, I measured on a run of 60 miles with a tonne behind, mix of hilly and flat doing 60 on the motorway (shhhhh) it did 30mpg which I think is ok for a car with a twin axle trailer out back.

How do you find the Outlander otherwise? Quite like the idea of the electric one, which might also give it a bit more torque for starting off with a trailer behind me.
 

JohnBoy

Member
How do you find the Outlander otherwise? Quite like the idea of the electric one, which might also give it a bit more torque for starting off with a trailer behind me.

it's grand, I'd prefer the Xtrail from a utility point of view, it has a massive rectangular arse on it, which means the boot is more useful than the Outlander, and more cubbies and cupholders and the like.

But the outlander is more refined, more economical, much nicer interior.

As said above the phev isnt really aimed at towing, it'll drink like a fish when it's doing it too as it's a 2.4 na petrol.


A couple of people mentioned automatics, unfortunately a lot of the options in this class the autos are undersized and will be rated lower than the manual, the main exception I'm aware of is the bmw x3 which has an auto often paired to big six cylinder engines. if you're going for an estate the mondeo is the same, auto is rated for a couple of hundred kilos more than the manual.

Unless something has changed in recent years volvos arent going to do it, on paper at least their tow ratings used to be quite low, but I assume that's volvo being safety concious and they're probably 100% competent right at their weight.
 

Robt

Member
Location
Suffolk
I had one for 48 hours, on petrol only it did 32-38mpg.
Have you driven one?
Edit, I don’t work for Mitsubishi, I just thought it an ideal farmers car as 28 mile range on electric would be good for most around the farm
 

Highland Mule

Member
Livestock Farmer
it's grand, I'd prefer the Xtrail from a utility point of view, it has a massive rectangular arse on it, which means the boot is more useful than the Outlander, and more cubbies and cupholders and the like.

But the outlander is more refined, more economical, much nicer interior.

As said above the phev isnt really aimed at towing, it'll drink like a fish when it's doing it too as it's a 2.4 na petrol.


A couple of people mentioned automatics, unfortunately a lot of the options in this class the autos are undersized and will be rated lower than the manual, the main exception I'm aware of is the bmw x3 which has an auto often paired to big six cylinder engines. if you're going for an estate the mondeo is the same, auto is rated for a couple of hundred kilos more than the manual.

Unless something has changed in recent years volvos arent going to do it, on paper at least their tow ratings used to be quite low, but I assume that's volvo being safety concious and they're probably 100% competent right at their weight.

Got an xtrail mk2 just now. Coming up to 100k miles and most done by me. Should probably just stick with it a bit longer. Not sure about the economy part though - manage 40+mpg in it, and am happy enough with that. Drive like I stole it too - sits happy at 80+ mph.
 
I spoke to someone recently who regularly tows with an Outlander PHEV.

1 When the petrol engine had to kick in it is thirsty.

2 The petrol tank is only about 30 litres so on a long tow journey petrol stops are a frequent occurrence.

On a different tack - a Mondeo estate is rated to tow over 2t. Personally never fancied a Ford, but maybe worth looking into.

TSS
 

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