590 pickup hitch draw bar

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
I fail to see the problem. The baler will, by the sound of it, have a ring end to its drawbar while the tractor has the standard clevis drawbar. A drawbar pin will fit through the large hole of the baler no problem. There will be slack, which can mostly be taken up by an easily made spacer if required.

If the baler has itself got a clevis, which is two tongues, then one tongue on either the tractor drawbar or the baler’s drawbar should be removed. I suggest removing or cutting one off the baler side if appropriate.

If the baler or other PTO driven trailed implement has previously been used on a pickup hitch hook, especially MF short underbelly design [100 and 500 series as opposed to the extended 600 series design] then the implement’s PTO shaft might be cut too short. Common sense is paramount and if that is lacking, get a contractor.
 

Maresfield

Member
Mixed Farmer
I fail to see the problem. The baler will, by the sound of it, have a ring end to its drawbar while the tractor has the standard clevis drawbar. A drawbar pin will fit through the large hole of the baler no problem. There will be slack, which can mostly be taken up by an easily made spacer if required.

If the baler has itself got a clevis, which is two tongues, then one tongue on either the tractor drawbar or the baler’s drawbar should be removed. I suggest removing or cutting one off the baler side if appropriate.

If the baler or other PTO driven trailed implement has previously been used on a pickup hitch hook, especially MF short underbelly design [100 and 500 series as opposed to the extended 600 series design] then the implement’s PTO shaft might be cut too short. Common sense is paramount and if that is lacking, get a contractor.
So the tractor has a draw bar only. I bought a pickup to use with trailers so I dont have to jack stuff up. The baler needs a draw bar, no ring on it for a puh. All sorted now thanks to the input from everyone
 

Lakes Nash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
South lakes
I fail to see the problem. The baler will, by the sound of it, have a ring end to its drawbar while the tractor has the standard clevis drawbar. A drawbar pin will fit through the large hole of the baler no problem. There will be slack, which can mostly be taken up by an easily made spacer if required.

If the baler has itself got a clevis, which is two tongues, then one tongue on either the tractor drawbar or the baler’s drawbar should be removed. I suggest removing or cutting one off the baler side if appropriate.

If the baler or other PTO driven trailed implement has previously been used on a pickup hitch hook, especially MF short underbelly design [100 and 500 series as opposed to the extended 600 series design] then the implement’s PTO shaft might be cut too short. Common sense is paramount and if that is lacking, get a contractor.
thats all a bit harsh!
 
Has anybody got any pictures of the lever that releases the pickup hitch in order to lower it down? Mine hasn't got any lever or anything to release the spring loaded clamps that hold the hitch up. Thank you.
 

mobileweld

Member
Arable Farmer
Not my photo. Taken from google. But that’s the lever
5B14D866-EDB9-495A-B976-53E6A0934C6C.jpeg
 

Cowabunga

Member
Location
Ceredigion,Wales
It is a dreadfully long stretch to use it, yet stretching back to release it doesn’t help with hook visibility at all.
Personally I would try and find a 600 series lever that extends forward over the axle and enters the cab via a rope with a T handle. It would need a bit of work with an angle grinder or [better] removal of the shield seen behind the arrow in the picture, and a hole drilled in the cab floor beside the seat. Check that the lift control quadrants aren’t in the way before committing to this, because it is only an idea I’ve had for years but never seen it done to a 500 series.
 

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