Cheaper than a new egr valve and tractor would run cooler and smoother so yes and a 4 cylinder erg is meant to be arkward to doWould there be any point in doing the derv doctor treatment (ditching the egr) on a JD 6430 premium guys?
Its on its second egr unit as burning coolant sooted it up when head gasket went. 4400 hours on it presently.
Cheaper than a new egr valve and tractor would run cooler and smoother so yes and a 4 cylinder erg is meant to be arkward to do
In theory it should increase longevity, decrease fuel use and increase power, but all of this is if you don't over do the power increase.What are the consequences for engine longevity, fuel use and power?
What are the consequences for engine longevity, fuel use and power?
You won't look back!
Did our 6430p over 2yrs ago, utterly transformed it, max torque available from 1400rpm all the way to 2300rpm. Obviously peak fuel use is higher, gone from 27.6l/h peak pre remap to 33.6l/h so if you were slogging away at peak load all day it would use more fuel.
But as an example, on our plough, a Kuhn 4f variwidth autoreset, pre remap on our hills it was on its knees uphill flat out at 3.5km/h, now it will pull uphill at 8km/h at 1400rpm using significantly less fuel.
I think we were told it had about a 40hp boost over standard though!
You won't look back!
Did our 6430p over 2yrs ago, utterly transformed it, max torque available from 1400rpm all the way to 2300rpm. Obviously peak fuel use is higher, gone from 27.6l/h peak pre remap to 33.6l/h so if you were slogging away at peak load all day it would use more fuel.
But as an example, on our plough, a Kuhn 4f variwidth autoreset, pre remap on our hills it was on its knees uphill flat out at 3.5km/h, now it will pull uphill at 8km/h at 1400rpm using significantly less fuel.
I think we were told it had about a 40hp boost over standard though!
Sounds very impressive to be fair.
I wouldn't mind adding say 15hp onto our 6430p but not keen on doing much more as wouldn't want to overdo strain on the powertrain.
I really do like the idea of a cooler running engine lasting longer ......
I'm interested in what anyone else has done when they remove egr cooler, took me a good hour of umming and arrrring to decide to knock the seal out and as luck would have it found a tap and didn't even have to drill it out just sent the tap down
I'm going to fit an angle bracket to hold the pipe into the seal.View attachment 277666 I presume you just piped into the outlet pipe of the cooler with your go faster blue pipe?
I'm not going to remove my manifold,I'm just going to butcher the cooler in situ.
If you shorten the lower pipe from the cooler (I cut mine with the recip as I'm connecting back onto it with a silicone tube) it just comes out the back in one piece,I'm not sure who told me the manifold and turbo had to be removed to get it off.View attachment 277844Best place for it!
I hope this leaking is the cause of my loss of coolant,will be doing some if it doesn't stop dropping.
Yes tis the best place for it angle bracket I thought about that and then thought do it once do it right plus mine was in bits at the time so it wasn't much work to tap the housing, mines going grand need to do the front crank seal and pull the trumpets off for inspection of final drives/brakes before summer
A blank in the coolant hole?
Where does the coolant go after the EGR cooler, didn't think you could just blank the coolant off, had to be joined?
You might get a tap in if you press a nut over the top, and use a spanner to turn it. That's if if the angle bracket doesn't work out.