856xl short engine

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
Anyone know of a supplier?

The poor old thing went poorly last year, just got chance to look at it and reckon it's either a rebuild or more simply for me a short motor.
 

Wellytrack

Member
I've got a straight pipe on the turbo. A few people have commented on the unique sound it makes.

There was one locally here was driven hard all the time and laid up under some trees without doors til it melted away. XLN cab. Often regret not saving it.
 

Wellytrack

Member
There wouldn't be many XLNs about. Don't know why Case didn't use the XLN cab as the low profile option on more models.

Agreed. I bought one 3 years back and it was a great cab, XL comfort with L cab height. More light too. Sold it again, it’s aboot Antrim now.
 

Still Farming

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
South Wales UK
Anyone know of a supplier?

The poor old thing went poorly last year, just got chance to look at it and reckon it's either a rebuild or more simply for me a short motor.
Good chaps here
 

fermerboy

Member
Location
Banffshire
The 856 uses a DT-239 engine, the 885 uses a D-268 engine.

The naturally aspirated version of the 856's DT-239 engine, the D-239, was used in the 685, 695 and 4210 but I couldn't tell the differences without looking through the parts books.

At a guess the DT-239 would have stronger pistons with cast ring inserts, and heavier rods, somewhere between the two that would lower the compression a little bit. Possibly oil jets to cool under the pistons.
Been into too many D-239, and D-246, and the odd D-268 but never a turbo one. Got a 574 lying to do up one day when the using machinery is not needing something! :banghead: :banghead:
They do go very well for what they are, though I prefer the longer stroke 268.
 

Flatlander

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lorette Manitoba
Order an engine rebuild kit from a reputable place and put it back together if the crank isn’t scored I wouldn’t touch i. Get the plastic gapping strips and check to see if you’ll need oversized big end shells. Change pistons,rings main big end and little end bearings. Either regrind the valves or exchange the head. Might want to swap out the turbo guts if turbowed and water pump.if your going to keep it for some time still get the alternator and starter serviced too.
 

fermerboy

Member
Location
Banffshire
Order an engine rebuild kit from a reputable place and put it back together if the crank isn’t scored I wouldn’t touch i. Get the plastic gapping strips and check to see if you’ll need oversized big end shells. Change pistons,rings main big end and little end bearings. Either regrind the valves or exchange the head. Might want to swap out the turbo guts if turbowed and water pump.if your going to keep it for some time still get the alternator and starter serviced too.
You forgot to mention the balancer too, can wear in there which will lose some oil pressure.

Something to be aware of if you go this route, the crank will most likely be a nitrided one, (will have a N stamped on the front web somewhere) they can only be ground down 10 thou or you go through the hardening. Not a problem if thats enough, but its toast if it needs two steps up to 20 thou, or if somebodys been there already. Been there and had the hassle!
 
Last edited:

Flatlander

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lorette Manitoba
You forgot to mention the balancer too, can wear in there which will lose some oil pressure.

Something to be aware of if you go this route, the crank will most likely be a nitrided one, (will have a N stamped on the front web somewhere) they can only be ground down 10 thou or you go through the hardening. Not a problem if thats enough, but its toast if it needs two steps up to 20 thou, or if somebodys been there already. Been there and had the hassle!
Always something that gets forgotten or neglected. I rebuilt an 8.3 Cummins in my sprayer after it dropped a valve. Was still running and made it home but was a total disaster inside.a reman from caseih was 22 k plus 17 to install. Would have been more as some other jobs besides engine swap needed doing. Turbo not included. Cost me 12k by the time it was done. All because the top of a valve popped off.
 

Badshot

Member
Location
Kent
Little update.

Stripped the head off tonight.

Number 3 is the problem and it shows.

Theres a large delay in it moving when I turn the engine over, and I can spin the piston about 4mm. Sump off next.

Where's best for rebuild kits as I seem to be going down the route of full rebuild, got a good firm will do the head locally. Need the rest though, hoping the crank is OK, but expect that'll be fooked too. Agriline are cheap, but been warned off them tonight.
 
Little update.

Stripped the head off tonight.

Number 3 is the problem and it shows.

Theres a large delay in it moving when I turn the engine over, and I can spin the piston about 4mm. Sump off next.

Where's best for rebuild kits as I seem to be going down the route of full rebuild, got a good firm will do the head locally. Need the rest though, hoping the crank is OK, but expect that'll be fooked too. Agriline are cheap, but been warned off them tonight.
Intertrac
 

SFI - What % were you taking out of production?

  • 0 %

    Votes: 77 43.0%
  • Up to 25%

    Votes: 62 34.6%
  • 25-50%

    Votes: 30 16.8%
  • 50-75%

    Votes: 3 1.7%
  • 75-100%

    Votes: 3 1.7%
  • 100% I’ve had enough of farming!

    Votes: 4 2.2%

Red Tractor drops launch of green farming scheme amid anger from farmers

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As reported in Independent


quote: “Red Tractor has confirmed it is dropping plans to launch its green farming assurance standard in April“

read the TFF thread here: https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/gfc-was-to-go-ahead-now-not-going-ahead.405234/
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