A few workshop jobs.

Larel

Member
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Finally got round to mounting my spare wheel on the Tedder. Ready for my next puncture now, but still need to mind to take the correct spanner’s in the the tractor.
 

Mursal

Member
We do have a cheap set of combination spanners living in the tractors and s pair of grips.
Think about 6 or £7 for a small set, so no Snap-On stuff allowed.
 

Larel

Member
We do have a cheap set of combination spanners living in the tractors and s pair of grips.
Think about 6 or £7 for a small set, so no Snap-On stuff allowed.

You know fine one or two of the set of spanners for use in the field will ultimately get left there when you tidy up and start baling in a hurry. If you are lucky they might end up in a bale and you'll find them in a feed trough!
 

joe soapy

Member
Location
devon
We do have a cheap set of combination spanners living in the tractors and s pair of grips.
Think about 6 or £7 for a small set, so no Snap-On stuff allowed.
£29 in aldi full set to 32mm.
several wont be be a common size used on farm, but simple to adjust with grinder..to make 2 or 3 sets of common size spanner

postman just brought a few of these to try
p.jpg
 
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Larel

Member
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This comes under the category of rework and design changes! Everything worked fine except the two rollers clashed when in the transport position turning sharp left corners.
 

Larel

Member
I was going to ask why the long drawbar on 1, the set of Kidd gang rollers I used years ago were all towed in line, in transport mode.
If towed one behind the other they require some manual handling to get them to and from the work position. So the way I have them arranged they will go from transport to work and back again with some directional reversing. However they are two 5’ rollers and with the frames dimensions if towed side by side they won’t fit through a 12’ gate. (All my Gates are 12’). So I have made them so they will tow slightly overlapping one behind the other when in transport. Hope above makes sense!
 

sawdust

Member
Location
Argyll
If towed one behind the other they require some manual handling to get them to and from the work position. So the way I have them arranged they will go from transport to work and back again with some directional reversing. However they are two 5’ rollers and with the frames dimensions if towed side by side they won’t fit through a 12’ gate. (All my Gates are 12’). So I have made them so they will tow slightly overlapping one behind the other when in transport. Hope above makes sense!
You could also potentially rig a secondary drawbar system on the shorter drawbar roller, to swing/jump the third roller behind the second to tow all in tandem and still have no manual handling. I also like the idea you already have. (y)
 

Larel

Member
You could also potentially rig a secondary drawbar system on the shorter drawbar roller, to swing/jump the third roller behind the second to tow all in tandem and still have no manual handling. I also like the idea you already have. (y)
Any pictures of what you are describing? I have rewelded the whole drawbar just now but am still undecided if it’s going to work. Now my longer drawbar will mean the roller will cut the corner even more! Some proper drawings or scale models would be the proper way to suss out all these niggles but where’s the fun in that! This way it’s a pleasant surprise when it works, and if it doesn’t the the grinder is back out.
 

Larel

Member
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Treated myself to some newwelding rods today. Shhh don’t tell the bodger thread. I got a box of each brand HIS in Inverness had in 6013 3.2mm and a box of Low Hyds as well. Never heard of Nikko Steel but tried them tonight and pretty happy with them.

Weld on the flat,
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And vertical uphill.
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bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
My bodger's Tuppence worth-
Make both drawbars similar lengths with the shorter one as is just now.
The wing drawbar for the longer short roller should be pivoted from the current transport point but with a pin at the outside rear corner of the main roller, so to convert to work would definitely a case over reversing rollers till the pivoted drawbar is parallel with main roller and pin into place for work.
A bar should be fixed between the rear of the short drawbar roller and the drawbar pin of the longer drawbar roller for transport to create a parallel box which should keep rollers apart for transport.
To change to work unhitch short wing as now then reverse back till long bar is flush with roller main frame and pin in place, then hitch up short roller as now.
Hope you can see what I mean cause I don't know how to draw it out.
To be really posh it should also be possible to make short drawbar roller hitch point hydraulic and slide out to save any unhitching.
 

Larel

Member
My bodger's Tuppence worth-
Make both drawbars similar lengths with the shorter one as is just now.
The wing drawbar for the longer short roller should be pivoted from the current transport point but with a pin at the outside rear corner of the main roller, so to convert to work would definitely a case over reversing rollers till the pivoted drawbar is parallel with main roller and pin into place for work.
A bar should be fixed between the rear of the short drawbar roller and the drawbar pin of the longer drawbar roller for transport to create a parallel box which should keep rollers apart for transport.
To change to work unhitch short wing as now then reverse back till long bar is flush with roller main frame and pin in place, then hitch up short roller as now.
Hope you can see what I mean cause I don't know how to draw it out.
To be really posh it should also be possible to make short drawbar roller hitch point hydraulic and slide out to save any unhitching.
Hmm, I have read it twice and maybe being a bit dense, but I think I need a diagram!
 

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