Ag barn to industrial, insulation?

[crazy_bull]

Just costing a few options out, one is to re-clad and roof a 120'x30' concrete 'At-Cost' shed.

It would be for a carpentry firm so would need to be insulated, just doing quick sums at the moment so nothing too in depth.

Ideally I would replace the odd cracked roof sheet and then spray insulate as per a spud store, assuming that would be the cheapest (would be reflected in the rent).

However if they wanted it done bells and whistles I am looking at re-cladding and re-roofing in pre-insulated sheets. What thickness of sheets do people go for in these instances?

Cheers

Luke

 

[S J H]

I've been involved with a few conversions @crazy_bull and they've been spray foamed, it's not ideal but resheeting would be a huge cost. This was for storage though, not for a workshop, but I know they vary thickness depending on the use.

Websters insulation are a good firm.

 

[Forever Fendt]

Just costing a few options out, one is to re-clad and roof a 120'x30' concrete 'At-Cost' shed.

It would be for a carpentry firm so would need to be insulated, just doing quick sums at the moment so nothing too in depth.

Ideally I would replace the odd cracked roof sheet and then spray insulate as per a spud store, assuming that would be the cheapest (would be reflected in the rent).

However if they wanted it done bells and whistles I am looking at re-cladding and re-roofing in pre-insulated sheets. What thickness of sheets do people go for in these instances?

Cheers

Luke

120 mm composite (£ 27 m2 ) or 260mm quilt to meet building regs as @S J H said spray foam will be the best for a concrete frame shed,I would check the gutters and think about replacing the hook bolts first they will be badly corroded

 

[simon-0116]

120 mm composite (£ 27 m2 ) or 260mm quilt to meet building regs as @S J H said spray foam will be the best for a concrete frame shed,I would check the gutters and think about replacing the hook bolts first they will be badly corroded

And doing any electrical work ie new cables to lights as it's a pig to do after

 

[S J H]

And doing any electrical work ie new cables to lights as it's a pig to do after

I think you have to do it before the foam, because of the loading. You can just use trays,

 

[S J H]

I've been involved with a few conversions @crazy_bull and they've been spray foamed, it's not ideal but resheeting would be a huge cost. This was for storage though, not for a workshop, but I know they vary thickness depending on the use.

Websters insulation are a good firm.

If you use a different firm @crazy_bull make sure they board over the skylights, else theyll eventually blow out with the heat. They can spray the foam white with emulsion, which might be a good idea for a workshop, as it does get darker over time.

 

[Doing it for the kids]

I've converted over 10,000 ft 2 recently.

Spray foam is horrid but Webster's are good at putting it on. Only use that if doing it on the cheap or concrete purlins

If you have steel purlins google 2nds insulation boards. I fitted 75mm foiled backed sheets and rested them above some 9mm ply, I bought an attic load from the dock, about half price from Travis etc.

We replaced the existing skylights then ordered a second as a 2nd skin which just sat on the boards, worked well. Having 25mm breathing space is a good idea for air flow.

Ditto for walls, we used 50mm.

The job has worked well, too well really as I can't sell the tenants as much heat.

Cheap white paint and you are left with a v smart building, added at least £1 Psf to our rents.

 

[crazy_bull]

I've converted over 10,000 ft 2 recently.

Spray foam is horrid but Webster's are good at putting it on. Only use that if doing it on the cheap or concrete purlins

If you have steel purlins google 2nds insulation boards. I fitted 75mm foiled backed sheets and rested them above some 9mm ply, I bought an attic load from the dock, about half price from Travis etc.

We replaced the existing skylights then ordered a second as a 2nd skin which just sat on the boards, worked well. Having 25mm breathing space is a good idea for air flow.

Ditto for walls, we used 50mm.

The job has worked well, too well really as I can't sell the tenants as much heat.

Cheap white paint and you are left with a v smart building, added at least £1 Psf to our rents.

All concrete purlins, but thanks for the above

 

[Doing it for the kids]

Foam it is then. Get them to spray paint it at the same time.

Crucial to fix roof before and you may have to hang trays over the purlins before they spray

 

[How much]

A couple of things to consider , and it depends how official this lease / rent is .

Firstly if this is a lease , you are going to need a EPC cetificate , how they stack up with spray foam i don't know having uniform coverage would be the issue i guess.
secondley post the big london fire last week , i supect that insurance companies are going to be very nervous of any foam insulation going forward . 20 years ago i nearley leased a spay insulated shed , and it was our insurance broker even back then that said insurance for spray foamed buildings used outside of agricultural was a difficult / expensive option then.
You could be making yourself an expensive problem

Also re building regs , you need to be sure that that the building can sustian the new snow loading of a better insulated building , we recently had a cement asbestos buiding oversheeted with glass fiber insulated steel and the contractors wanted a structural engineer to confirm the stucture was up to the extra weight.

Obviously there is alot of ground beetween doing it right and making a job that will do and to some degree that maybe depends on the lease etc , but my gut feeling would be a little more money spent now will pay dividend in 5 years time

 

[Doing it for the kids]

I don't think mine was recognised under the EPC which is daft (much like the EPC's!)

they didn't have a box to tick under 'spray foam' so have to tick none!

Not sure how heavy the foam is but at an even spread of 50 mm over the whole roof I can imagine it will add much stress

 

[Cowcalf]

I don't think mine was recognised under the EPC which is daft (much like the EPC's!)

they didn't have a box to tick under 'spray foam' so have to tick none!

Not sure how heavy the foam is but at an even spread of 50 mm over the whole roof I can imagine it will add much stress

think he was thinking of weight of snow as slow thawing with insulation below, but doubt you get anything snow wise worth thinking of

 

[Doing it for the kids]

Well to some extend fair enough but a heated, insulated barn is going to have little differences to a non heated un insulated one surely?

 

[db9go]

We have done a Crendon Concrete building and taken of the cement sheets and had 100 mm composite sheet fitted easy to do as now they have screws that go into the concrete purlins.
I think you have to comply with new rules if people are working in there

 

[Zebbedee]

I would remove old roof and fit composite panels, future proof and very good insulation also tidy inside building with clean white underside. May be dearer but I would hazard not that much when you take all the messing about with spray foam etc and then when (not if ) a sheet needs replaced it's gonna be ,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[B R C]

I would remove old roof and fit composite panels, future proof and very good insulation also tidy inside building with clean white underside. May be dearer but I would hazard not that much when you take all the messing about with spray foam etc and then when (not if ) a sheet needs replaced it's gonna be ,,,,,,,,,,,,,

This, why do it up cheaply and reflect this in rent price, you are storing up big headaches for the future re repairs and eventual replacement. Spend the money and reflect this in the rent, the composite panels underside looks good, just paint the purlins and you have a nice finish which should be maintenance free for a long time.

 

[Tinman Steels Ltd]

Personally I think built up systems are going to become more popular again as overall it's a better system, the only downside is it takes longer to fit. I'm not sure if this would be the best option for a concrete purlin though as you would need to fix the liner and grid system to the purlins where as with an insulated panel it would just be the panel.

 

[db9go]

Personally I think built up systems are going to become more popular again as overall it's a better system, the only downside is it takes longer to fit. I'm not sure if this would be the best option for a concrete purlin though as you would need to fix the liner and grid system to the purlins where as with an insulated panel it would just be the panel.

You can fit composite sheets strait on concrete purlins with the right screws we have two done like that and one was 20 years ago this month no problem.

 

[Burly Chassis]

You can fit composite sheets strait on concrete purlins with the right screws we have two done like that and one was 20 years ago this month no problem.

Hi db9go. Any chance you could message me? I'm looking to do exactly the same with an old Crendon pig shed. Some of the concrete purlins are frost damaged, but if I managed to source some replacements I guess it would be cheaper than replacing the purlins with steel.

 

[crazy_bull]

Hi db9go. Any chance you could message me? I'm looking to do exactly the same with an old Crendon pig shed. Some of the concrete purlins are frost damaged, but if I managed to source some replacements I guess it would be cheaper than replacing the purlins with steel.

I am doing one concrete shed at the moment, and have opted to bolt 4x2 on the flat side of the concrete purlins, then at right angles attach 4x2 ‘rafters’ in between will be fitted 100mm insulation boards, this will loose me some head height but have a nice air gap between insulation and old roof, plus gives me rafters to connect another covering of either Ply or chip board to protect the insulation.

C B