Forums
New posts
Forum list
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New resources
Latest activity
Trending Threads
Resources
Latest reviews
Search resources
FarmTV
Farm Compare
Search
Tokens/Searches
Calendar
Upcoming Events
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
New Resources
New posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Forum list
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Farm Building and Infrastructure
Renewable Energy
Air Source heat Pump
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Dave645" data-source="post: 6584115" data-attributes="member: 55822"><p>Both types of heat pump ground and air are good, but the delivery of that heat is also a factor, well insulated homes work well because the operating temperature in the delivery system is low, my water temp in my underfloor heating rarely goes over 30c, so it’s vey efficient it’s actually 5 star rated that’s due to the design of the delivery system my underfloor heating, If I had tried radiators and tried to imitated the heating style of an oil boiler where I ramp up my heating rapidly so require very hot water to flow rapidly I would have a rubbish system, as heat pumps like to provide low temps at high efficiency and high temps at low efficiency.</p><p>My heating when on runs 24/7 it measures the return temp of the water from the underfloor heating and with the use of a heat curve and an outside temp gauge, runs my heating no room stats or other tech. My pumps run on low settings and as the rooms cool they effect the water temp and the heat pump runs to top it up as needed. Using just the heat pumps controller.</p><p></p><p>My ground temps have never been below freezing. So my return water has never been below freezing either, in 7 years.</p><p></p><p>If you have a large heat load then what ever you run it on it will be expensive but if you have a large heat load with a heat pump you need a great delivery system to get the best from them.</p><p>My house is not passive rated, but it either is or could be, I rarely turn the heating on until November (it’s not yet on this year and I haven’t lit any fires either). The passive heat my house creates from cooking, etc, and solar gain from windows can cover a lot of my heating, the heat pump only gets turned on for heating because I don’t light a fire every day, when it really gets cold, and it’s just a 5kw wood burner in my living room it’s no boiler stove. </p><p></p><p>Another big win are heat recovery units that and good air tightness, mine result was a 1 which was the best my council had ever tested you need below 10 to pass building regs in 2012, the next nearest was a 1 room flat, which got 1.1 (mine was a 300m2 three story detached house.)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dave645, post: 6584115, member: 55822"] Both types of heat pump ground and air are good, but the delivery of that heat is also a factor, well insulated homes work well because the operating temperature in the delivery system is low, my water temp in my underfloor heating rarely goes over 30c, so it’s vey efficient it’s actually 5 star rated that’s due to the design of the delivery system my underfloor heating, If I had tried radiators and tried to imitated the heating style of an oil boiler where I ramp up my heating rapidly so require very hot water to flow rapidly I would have a rubbish system, as heat pumps like to provide low temps at high efficiency and high temps at low efficiency. My heating when on runs 24/7 it measures the return temp of the water from the underfloor heating and with the use of a heat curve and an outside temp gauge, runs my heating no room stats or other tech. My pumps run on low settings and as the rooms cool they effect the water temp and the heat pump runs to top it up as needed. Using just the heat pumps controller. My ground temps have never been below freezing. So my return water has never been below freezing either, in 7 years. If you have a large heat load then what ever you run it on it will be expensive but if you have a large heat load with a heat pump you need a great delivery system to get the best from them. My house is not passive rated, but it either is or could be, I rarely turn the heating on until November (it’s not yet on this year and I haven’t lit any fires either). The passive heat my house creates from cooking, etc, and solar gain from windows can cover a lot of my heating, the heat pump only gets turned on for heating because I don’t light a fire every day, when it really gets cold, and it’s just a 5kw wood burner in my living room it’s no boiler stove. Another big win are heat recovery units that and good air tightness, mine result was a 1 which was the best my council had ever tested you need below 10 to pass building regs in 2012, the next nearest was a 1 room flat, which got 1.1 (mine was a 300m2 three story detached house.) [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Farm Building and Infrastructure
Renewable Energy
Air Source heat Pump
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top