Any ideas for improving a TS 59 plough for match ploughig

[spindle]

i dont lift my front leg at any time

I am struggling to complete my crown right at the matches that I have entered this year, my opening's and splits have been spot on but when I turn round to close it all back up it turns to rat s**t thought it might help with the adjustable leg ?

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

well i never move the front leg at anytime

 

[Tafe Tractorman]

I am struggling to complete my crown right at the matches that I have entered this year, my opening's and splits have been spot on but when I turn round to close it all back up it turns to rat s**t thought it might help with the adjustable leg ?

golden rule keep as close to the sun as possible SHALLOW !!!

 

[Fergie Ploughman]

I am struggling to complete my crown right at the matches that I have entered this year, my opening's and splits have been spot on but when I turn round to close it all back up it turns to rat s**t thought it might help with the adjustable leg ?

Don't worry, give it 5 or 10 years and you'll get it cracked!!

I don't subscribe to the "leg lifters" - its yet another thing to adjust, that would certainly not been adjusted years ago. It is perfectly possible to do a nice flat crown with the leg in its original position. The trick is not going to deep on the split, but split enough so its all ploughed down to a reasonable depth, not one of these real flat hardly any material moved affairs. The putting that first amount of material in the sufficient quantity in the right place to allow the cop to be built up. Just go and watch a few people do it. I've still not perfected mine, probably never will, sometimes they're good and other times its shite! This was mine on Thursday at the Forest of Arden match, it got me the best cop (and finish), they're not the best I've done, but I was pleased and that's all that matters...

 

[spindle]

golden rule keep as close to the sun as possible SHALLOW !!!

Don't worry, give it 5 or 10 years and you'll get it cracked!!

I don't subscribe to the "leg lifters" - its yet another thing to adjust, that would certainly not been adjusted years ago. It is perfectly possible to do a nice flat crown with the leg in its original position. The trick is not going to deep on the split, but split enough so its all ploughed down to a reasonable depth, not one of these real flat hardly any material moved affairs. The putting that first amount of material in the sufficient quantity in the right place to allow the cop to be built up. Just go and watch a few people do it. I've still not perfected mine, probably never will, sometimes they're good and other times its shite! This was mine on Thursday at the Forest of Arden match, it got me the best cop (and finish), they're not the best I've done, but I was pleased and that's all that matters...
View attachment 209160 View attachment 209162

That looks great work to me Fergie if I could do work like that I would be happy I will get the hang of it one day

 

[Petetheploughman]

Which landsides should I have old thin rusty genuine ones or new thick non-genuine ones.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

i would go for new thick ones, get them cut out of Hardox and make them 7" deep, use an old one, to get the paten, but make it deeper

 

[Shorthorn]

I've seen a few deep landsides, what is the advantage?

 

[Petetheploughman]

i would go for new thick ones, get them cut out of Hardox and make them 7" deep, use an old one, to get the paten, but make it deeper

Thanks John for that. Your probably right for going for the new thick ones. Otherwise if I use the old thin ones I will just get the plough set up right and then I would probably have to take the frogs apart again to fit new landsides and that's the last thing I want.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

if you get them made at 7" deep, at the back and at the top, cut it down to 6" about 2" in from the back end, this will give you a guide as to you ploughing at the right depth, and can see it from the tractor seat as you are ploughing, on the top, of the 7" bit weld the head of a 6" nail sticking straight up, then cut it off leaving 1" or so sticking up, just right to hook the tape measure over when measuring the plot width



""I've seen a few deep landsides, what is the advantage"" keeps a nice firm side on the last run on the finish, helps to keep it clean

 

[Petetheploughman]

if you get them made at 7" deep, at the back and at the top, cut it down to 6" about 2" in from the back end, this will give you a guide as to you ploughing at the right depth, and can see it from the tractor seat as you are ploughing, on the top, of the 7" bit weld the head of a 6" nail sticking straight up, then cut it off leaving 1" or so sticking up, just right to hook the tape measure over when measuring the plot width



""I've seen a few deep landsides, what is the advantage"" keeps a nice firm side on the last run on the finish, helps to keep it clean

Thanks again John. The only other question I have about landsides is why don't people like heels?

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

Thanks again John. The only other question I have about landsides is why don't people like heels?

do you like to wear heels?

 

[Petetheploughman]

do you like to wear heels?

No not even if they are on the plough the wife's shoes.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

well there you go then, don't be seen with them on in the ploughing field

 

[arcobob]

I make my landsides from digger bucket edging 12mm X150mm . It is drillable, hard wearing and strong. Don`t worry about the bevel, put this at the inside top and add another piece of mild steel on top if you like. I also strengthen mine with a strip pf 40mm X 8MM on edge half way up the back and almost full length. I don`t use any heel as I like to be able to plough with a long top link and don`t want the heel lifting the share out. If I leave a groove it doesn`t matter and when the heel area wears I just cut the back corner out and weld another piece in. My finished landside is 6" high and it is therefore is an easy guide to judge depth correctly.

 

[Petetheploughman]

I make my landsides from digger bucket edging 12mm X150mm . It is drillable, hard wearing and strong. Don`t worry about the bevel, put this at the inside top and add another piece of mild steel on top if you like. I also strengthen mine with a strip pf 40mm X 8MM on edge half way up the back and almost full length. I don`t use any heel as I like to be able to plough with a long top link and don`t want the heel lifting the share out. If I leave a groove it doesn`t matter and when the heel area wears I just cut the back corner out and weld another piece in. My finished landside is 6" high and it is therefore is an easy guide to judge depth correctly.

Clever way!

 

[Petetheploughman]

Here are some photos showing my mods and you may spot a few remnants of failed or discarded attempts. The most successful mods in no particular order are:-
Adjustable wheel with centre marker
Winding cross shaft from the seat, with indicator
Narrow frame giving full adjustment of cross shaft
Ford skimmers with custom arms
Custom rear landside (no thick heal)
Countersunk screws in disc
Weight carrier to right. Counterbalances wheel when not at depth and stresses linkage in one direction( clockwise) *
Marker scales on all adjustments including top link and lift rods on tractor.
Wheel mounting moved rearwards
Frame lengthened 4" between bodies
Front furrow leg adjustable up 1" (drill leg not frame)
Quick change rear disc with lynch pin

People often ask about the welding on the shins of mouldboards. On any hedgerow plough which has been operated by your average numpty the shins are worm because they cannot set ploughs. I weld 1/4" rod up the front and after several seasons it shows no signs of wear, proving that no appreciable wear is necessary. I include a pic of my disc width checking tool. I must stop now as the website may crash

Whereabouts have you bolted the adjustable turnbuckle stay to the frog? It looks extremely tidy the way you have done it.

 

[arcobob]

Whereabouts have you bolted the adjustable turnbuckle stay to the frog? It looks extremely tidy the way you have done it.
View attachment 836970
View attachment 836971

I welded a piece of 10mm flat to the side of the projection that provides the fixing for the original stay. This projects about an inch to the rear and at the back end I weld a vertical bolt suitable for taking the turnbuckle eye.

 

[Petetheploughman]

I currently have two Ransomes Kristeel mouldboards, however they are not a match pair. They both have the same amount of wear but one has the Ransomes Patient sign on it and the other is the later Ransomes R on it. Would this make any difference?

 

[arcobob]

I currently have two Ransomes Kristeel mouldboards, however they are not a match pair. They both have the same amount of wear but one has the Ransomes Patient sign on it and the other is the later Ransomes R on it. Would this make any difference?

Theoretically there should be no difference but I have never tried mixing them up on a plough. No doubt somebody on here will have an angle on this.