Any ideas how to bodge this broken counterweight?

[davidroberts30]

Ahem!!!! Is that not exactly the same as I said?

achem,,,,isnt that what I said

 

[ACEngineering]

old oil drum, cut hole in it stick a bar through to fit the lower link arms and a lynch pin though it or similar, then fill it up with concrete and rubble.

you could even smash the old block up and use that as rubble although it probably not worth the time/effort, a bit like its not worth the effort fixing your old block when making a new one is easier.

 

[Mursal]

Not too sure about sleeves, I feel they will be stress raisers at the dia change, and you often find breaks right on the edge of stiffening plates for this reason.

Good point, just the original diameter seems small to rely on even with a full weld. Especially if its getting side stress from the arms not being over tight on the check chains.

 

[Badshot]

Ahem!!!! Is that not exactly the same as I said?

Nope
You weren't welding two ends of hook back together first as I read it.
Maybe it was lost in translation.

 

[Ley253]

Good point, just the original diameter seems small to rely on even with a full weld. Especially if its getting side stress from the arms not being over tight on the check chains.

If its a decent weld, it should be stronger that the parent metal. The initial fault seems to be a crack in line with the hook, then some stress build up through the rest of the metal. Direction is front to back, so is the block swinging about, and coming to sudden halts? One snag is we dont know what the original material was, bit of black bar, or a nice piece of bright.

 

[sawdust]

achem,,,,isnt that what I said

Nope

 

[michael N123]

Make a coat hanger shape frame round the broken side with some scrap and slide it on

 

[michael N123]

Or just stick a chain round the broken side But that’s more suited to the bodging thread

 

[7610 super q]

It's TFF land............buy a bigger tractor.....

 

[Farmer996]

old oil drum, cut hole in it stick a bar through to fit the lower link arms and a lynch pin though it or similar, then fill it up with concrete and rubble.

you could even smash the old block up and use that as rubble although it probably not worth the time/effort, a bit like its not worth the effort fixing your old block when making a new one is easier.

Still looking at the options. Hoping to use materials I have in stock and also considering how much time I have. Was hoping for a quick bodge until I get time to sort it properly or make a new one. Thanks.

 

[Farmer996]

Good point, just the original diameter seems small to rely on even with a full weld. Especially if its getting side stress from the arms not being over tight on the check chains.

If its a decent weld, it should be stronger that the parent metal. The initial fault seems to be a crack in line with the hook, then some stress build up through the rest of the metal. Direction is front to back, so is the block swinging about, and coming to sudden halts? One snag is we dont know what the original material was, bit of black bar, or a nice piece of bright.

Doesn't get much side stress but it has swung front to back and come to sudden halts a lot. The bar is about an inch diameter, maybe a bit less. I vaguely remember my Dad saying it was like cast iron to weld when he repaired the other hook. Like I said earlier, he's not an expert welder. He was a plater by trade in the coal mining industry so just made things up and tacked them together ready for the welders.

 

[Paul E]

It's TFF land............buy a bigger tractor.....

Did it really take 49 posts before someone stated the obvious???
Come on chaps, you're all slacking.

 

[Farmer996]

Did it really take 49 posts before someone stated the obvious???
Come on chaps, you're all slacking.

Do you want to lend me the money? Weight is used on an MF290. Steering and traction is a lot more difficult without it..

 

[Mursal]

Thinking about it, maybe two straps around the concrete (box it in) from 50mm x 10mm mild steel would be best?
Then you can mount new hooks on the frame?
Only a suggestion mind ........

 

[Ley253]

Thinking about it, maybe two straps around the concrete (box it in) from 50mm x 10mm mild steel would be best?
Then you can mount new hooks on the frame?
Only a suggestion mind ........

Thats what I was thinking of! Mind you, the for and aft movement must be stopped, that what is putting a bending moment on the hooks.

 

[Andrew]

Do you want to lend me the money? Weight is used on an MF290. Steering and traction is a lot more difficult without it..

To be fair, a half a ton of ballast and a few bags of cement will be less than £50 from a high street builders merchant. Bit of plywood, some scrap, may be cheaper than paying someone to weld it / buying drill bits and rawl bolts etc.
Could also be made differently so it didn’t keep banging the link arms and therefore breaking.

 

[Gordy1]

£4.02 a bag for ready mixed postcrete if you buy 3 or more bags from B&Q, shouldn't take many bags especially like I said before you could throw hardcore in as well & if you use hardcore by breaking the old one you can retrieve the hooks & would be a lot easier to weld the broken one, & like Andrew said any old ply etc could be used, there you go saved you money by spending less.

 

[Mursal]

But ..........
I'd say that weight has sentimental value, especially after the previous fix and I can fully understand why.

 

[Paul E]

Do you want to lend me the money? Weight is used on an MF290. Steering and traction is a lot more difficult without it..

I've always been told "Neither a borrower nor lender be."
But if you've a 290, I will GIVE you....................

.......................................my sympathy.

I'm sure there are more constructive posts, Let us know what you do and how you get on!

 

[Dry Rot]

Or just stick a chain round the broken side But that’s more suited to the bodging thread

So what's the matter with baler twine? Going soft?