Radish
New Member
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
Looking at getting one shortly, but what have/would you change on them?
And the closing wheel.I would change the coulter.
That's radical!!!!And the closing wheel.
Have you the flat press wheel or the newer tapered one?The only thing i have done to my Moores drill is weld 5 links of chain on to the rear of the seed coulter to help pull a bit of soil to fill the slot before the press wheel
I'm guessing because of open slots. On my lighter clay loams, with a bit of moisture, the Unidrill could do a lovely job, button the heavier clays the Coulter's could leave an open-ish V, without much soil directly over the seed.That's radical!!!!
Can I ask why?
Is that not a common problem with allot of disc or single point tine drill's though?I'm guessing because of open slots. On my lighter clay loams, with a bit of moisture, the Unidrill could do a lovely job, button the heavier clays the Coulter's could leave an open-ish V, without much soil directly over the seed.
So what's the issue with GD?...had thought one would be option, but nothing second hand around.Some manage issues like that better than others. I would agree things like that more organic matter will help, to some extent. However that isn't much help when the soil conditions in a particular field happen to be the way they are at the time you want to plant a crop.
I currently have zig zag harrows on my time drill, which really cover the slots well, though that is definitely not low disturbance to look at afterwards in comparison. Disc drills all vary a bit too, I have a Weaving GD now which has it's own issues too, but having soil directly over the seed isn't one of them.
I had one with the flat press wheels but now have one with the tapered press wheelsHave you the flat press wheel or the newer tapered one?