APV seeder parts

[whindy]

I am looking for a 6 pin electrical plug fire my ps 300 m1 air seeder . Does any one know where I could source one ? As apv only sell complete cable s.

 

[KB6930]

Like these or different ?

 

[whindy]

Yes that type of thing

 

[KB6930]

Try your local motor factors that pic I put up is out the durite catalogue I'd think there'll be a name on the connection somewhere to find out the manufacturer

 

[whindy]

Try your local motor factors that pic I put up is out the durite catalogue I'd think there'll be a name on the connection somewhere to find out the manufacturer

Ok thanks

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

I am looking for a 6 pin electrical plug fire my ps 300 m1 air seeder . Does any one know where I could source one ? As apv only sell complete cable s.View attachment 694890

Can you take a photo of the side and rear of the plug please? I think it’s a 6-way Ampseal 16 connector but can’t be sure as the end on photo is quite blurry #thickfarmerscamera

 

[whindy]

Can you take a photo of the side and rear of the plug please? I think it’s a 6-way Ampseal 16 connector but can’t be sure as the end on photo is quite blurry #thickfarmerscamera

Here are some more pictures. Some are of a previous wiring loom with the same plug on

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Thanks for the photos. Ampseal 16 have the connector keying (the tabs and recesses) located on the side of the connector.

Yours however has the keying tabs etc in the corners of the connector, so am thinking it’s one of the Molex industrial connector ranges, like the MX150L series.

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Think this is it....

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/pcb-connector-housings/5110168/

Also available at other good electronics and electrical retail and wholesalers

 

[whindy]

Ok thanks for your help

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Ok thanks for your help

No worries at all. The connector I linked to above is Molex part No. 19418-0011

Note the Molex catalogue for this family of MX150L connectors, gives 4 potential part numbers for the 6-position receptacle connector:

For 18-22 AWG wires:
19418-0011 - the one above with the white looking locking tab - so called Connector Position Assurance (CPA)
19418-0020 - without the locking tab

For 14-16 AWG wires:
19418-0010 - with a locking tab
19418-0021 - without a locking tab

You should be able to tell the difference because the 18-22 AWG connectors have a red coloured mat seal where the wires enter the receptacle and the connector for the thicker 14-16 AWG wires has a blue coloured mat seal...

 

[whindy]

No worries at all. The connector I linked to above is Molex part No. 19418-0011

Note the Molex catalogue for this family of MX150L connectors, gives 4 potential part numbers for the 6-position receptacle connector:

For 18-22 AWG wires:
19418-0011 - the one above with the white looking locking tab - so called Connector Position Assurance (CPA)
19418-0020 - without the locking tab

For 14-16 AWG wires:
19418-0010 - with a locking tab
19418-0021 - without a locking tab

You should be able to tell the difference because the 18-22 AWG connectors have a red coloured mat seal where the wires enter the receptacle and the connector for the thicker 14-16 AWG wires has a blue coloured mat seal...

View attachment 695080

To nights Home work

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

To nights Home work

Pare the back of the overmoulded boot off the back of the broken connector. The mat seal on the rear of the connector should be visible.

Not sure if yours had the locking tab or not as it looks to have been snapped off just about there.

If the female socket connectors that are crimped on are in good shape you should be able to seat them into the new shell. Otherwise you’d have to cut the end of and crimp on new sockets (need to order the sockets and pins etc separately, they won’t come with a new shell). No bad thing if you’re a bit dubious if the contacts or exposed wires have been damaged.

 

[whindy]

Pare the back of the overmoulded boot off the back of the broken connector. The mat seal on the rear of the connector should be visible.

Not sure if yours had the locking tab or not as it looks to have been snapped off just about there.

If the female socket connectors that are crimped on are in good shape you should be able to seat them into the new shell. Otherwise you’d have to cut the end of and crimp on new sockets (need to order the sockets and pins etc separately, they won’t come with a new shell). No bad thing if you’re a bit dubious if the contacts or exposed wires have been damaged.

Ok the problem with the plug and pins is they over heat and burn out .Mainly the one that sends power to the metering drive

 

[Kiwi Pete]

No worries at all. The connector I linked to above is Molex part No. 19418-0011

Note the Molex catalogue for this family of MX150L connectors, gives 4 potential part numbers for the 6-position receptacle connector:

For 18-22 AWG wires:
19418-0011 - the one above with the white looking locking tab - so called Connector Position Assurance (CPA)
19418-0020 - without the locking tab

For 14-16 AWG wires:
19418-0010 - with a locking tab
19418-0021 - without a locking tab

You should be able to tell the difference because the 18-22 AWG connectors have a red coloured mat seal where the wires enter the receptacle and the connector for the thicker 14-16 AWG wires has a blue coloured mat seal...

View attachment 695080

What a legend

I have a longterm project but sourcing the plug has been difficult.
-- I priced up the correct wiring harness for motivation

 

[whindy]

What a legend

I have a longterm project but sourcing the plug has been difficult.
-- I priced up the correct wiring harness for motivation

£80 for apv harness

 

[Kiwi Pete]

£80 for apv harness

The one I want is a 12-pin with pins for a speed pulse, and the lift (turn seeding on/off) and the kit comes complete with sensors - I wish it was only £80!

The dealer quoted almost £200 for the kit so it is worth making up my own loom.

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

The one I want is a 12-pin with pins for a speed pulse, and the lift (turn seeding on/off) and the kit comes complete with sensors - I wish it was only £80!

The dealer quoted almost £200 for the kit so it is worth making up my own loom.

My default choice of waterproof multiway connector is the Deutsch DT. There’s a picture of them further up in the thread from @KB6930 They are pretty good quality to be honest and lots of places sell them.

You will find Deutsch DT on lots of gear from LED worklights, guidance screens and GPS receivers to Harley’s. I’ve got a kit box with most combo of male and female from 2-way up to 12-way connectors and matching pins and sockets and the proper crimp tool.

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

What a legend

I have a longterm project but sourcing the plug has been difficult.
-- I priced up the correct wiring harness for motivation

Thanks that’s very kind. There are literally thousands of different types of multiway industrial and automotive connectors out there.

Most of the types I’ve come across in Ag and construction machines and associated gear are either one of the families from Amp/Tyco, Deutsch (now part of Amp/Tyco), Molex, Souriau or Binder. Just got to know where to look.

 

[Pheasant Surprise]

Ok the problem with the plug and pins is they over heat and burn out .Mainly the one that sends power to the metering drive

How’s the other end of the loom? The overheating may be down to poor quality connection (dirty, moist or just loose) between the male and female sides of the connector at the pins/sockets.

Or it could be down to some poor quality crimping of the wires to the pins/sockets. If the connection is poor (higher resistance) the circuit will pull more current making the problem even worse.

Finally the wiring may be undersized for the job at hand, so you may need to look at the gauge of the wiring used (see above for different connector part numbers for varying wire size/gauge through the sealing mat). There are different pins n sockets that can go into these connectors based on the wire size your crimping too.

Good quality crimping is vital. Don’t just crush the socket/pins ends on with pliers.