Artic trailer Air

So looking at one for bale cart, tractors have air, so take it this is fine with air brakes and air suspension, but when loader needs to move it what do you do? Drain air? Or fit tap in line? Any body use one with air brakes and susp?
 

njneer

Member
So looking at one for bale cart, tractors have air, so take it this is fine with air brakes and air suspension, but when loader needs to move it what do you do? Drain air? Or fit tap in line? Any body use one with air brakes and susp?
The trailer will have "anchor lock " brake chambers and need a minimum of 5 bar air supply to release the brakes in order to move it .
Draining the air will only apply the brakes as it is spring pressure that applies the park brake and you need the 5 bar minimum supply to overcome the spring pressure.
I would avoid fitting any kind of taps on airlines too as someone will eventually,and inevitably, forget to turn them back on and end up on the road with brakes stuck on or dragging or worse of all no brakes at all at some point.
It will be moveable when the red line is disconnected if the tanks are charged by using the " shunt " ( blue button next to red park brake button) .
 

Mursal

Member
The trailer might be pre shunt buttons and spring pot brakes?
If so dump the air from the tank to move without compressor
If you have spring pots, you'll need air or wind the brakes off with a spanner.
Be extremely careful working on spring pots if fitted.

Typical spring pot (longer than standard two line air pots)
air-4-1-en.jpg


Standard air pots usually has two lines
main-qimg-b24cd30537bd97bccdb660c68bf2fc22-c
 

Speedstar

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Take a 17 or 19mm spanner and back the brakes right off if you are moving it in the yard,if you need to go on the road brakes will need to work,how old is the trailer ? Have you a dollie for moving it ?
 

Mursal

Member
Just hit the shunt button to move in the yard them so ......
Suspension filled from the tank through a height control valve connected between chassis and axle with a linkage.

Red line fills the tank
Blue line works the trailer valve (shape of a mushroom) allowing air from the trailer tank to the brake pots. This is the foot brake or "Service" line.

When you pull the red line off, the trailer valve moves applying the "handbrake" again applied using air from the trailer tank.
 

njneer

Member
What about suspension does it work off brake line?
Yes all air related systems are supplied from the Red Line.

Really not keen on the whole practice to be honest as there is absolutely zero imposed load on the tractor drawbar , no weight being carried by the tractor.
It's ok if the trailer brakes are well maintained and serviced but as we all know this is generally not the case then with minimal weight on the ground and lots of weight behind is a recipe for disaster.

There is a thread in Agricultural matters forum " sobering thought for the day "
Worth a read as it is sobering reminder of what can happen when cavalier attitudes,to what passes for people's idea of brakes and maintenance these days, culminates in a wholly avoidable accident.

The "dolly is technically a trailer in its own right as it can be towed independently.
When coupled to the trailer the trailer then " technically" becomes a second trailer ( like towing two silage trailers) .
U.K. Legislation is that a second towed trailer cannot be loaded.
There are a few silage squads have been found out on this by towing a trailer with the van on it behind a silage trailer , you can tow the trailer behind the trailer with the van on it but not the other way round.
Some went down he road of doubling up silage trailers and towing the van with the spare tractor.
Again not a fan of these set ups at all.
I have worked first hand in MOT preparation on trucks and trailers and it is seriously strict criteria for a reason .
 

joe soapy

Member
Location
devon
The days of dragging some old shagged artic trailer with dollys on the public highway should be long gone and those that continue in this practice are playing with peoples lives.

I would argue with that, ours travel well and stop. Other people dont ask to borrow them either
 

Bobthebuilder

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
northumberland
The days of dragging some old shagged artic trailer with dollys on the public highway should be long gone and those that continue in this practice are playing with peoples lives.
better off pulling them with a dolly than cutting them to bits and welding a drawbar in, have you seen some of the welding in the farm bodges and creations thread :eek: anyway who said it was shagged out :cautious: you can pick up a good 2nd hand artic trailer for 2-3 grand no problem and if your pulling it with a tractor with air then there's no problem as long as you convert the lights to 12v rather than 24v
 
Last edited:

Bobthebuilder

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
northumberland
Yes all air related systems are supplied from the Red Line.

Really not keen on the whole practice to be honest as there is absolutely zero imposed load on the tractor drawbar , no weight being carried by the tractor.
It's ok if the trailer brakes are well maintained and serviced but as we all know this is generally not the case then with minimal weight on the ground and lots of weight behind is a recipe for disaster.

There is a thread in Agricultural matters forum " sobering thought for the day "
Worth a read as it is sobering reminder of what can happen when cavalier attitudes,to what passes for people's idea of brakes and maintenance these days, culminates in a wholly avoidable accident.

The "dolly is technically a trailer in its own right as it can be towed independently.
When coupled to the trailer the trailer then " technically" becomes a second trailer ( like towing two silage trailers) .
U.K. Legislation is that a second towed trailer cannot be loaded.
There are a few silage squads have been found out on this by towing a trailer with the van on it behind a silage trailer , you can tow the trailer behind the trailer with the van on it but not the other way round.
Some went down he road of doubling up silage trailers and towing the van with the spare tractor.
Again not a fan of these set ups at all.
I have worked first hand in MOT preparation on trucks and trailers and it is seriously strict criteria for a reason .
if you weld up the catch that holds the pin on 5th wheel and take the landing legs off it is ok, change lights from 24v to 12v, as for weight on drawbar it depends on 5th wheel and pin position
 

puntabrava

Member
Location
Wiltshire
better off pulling them with a dolly than cutting them to bits and welding a drawbar in, have you seen some of the welding in the farm badges and creations thread :eek: anyway who said it was shagged out :cautious: you can pick up a good 2nd hand artic trailer for 2-3 grand no problem and if your pulling it with a tractor with air then there's no problem as long as you convert the lights to 12v rather than 24v
You a farmer or a farm worker?
 

njneer

Member
if you weld up the catch that holds the pin on 5th wheel and take the landing legs off it is ok, change lights from 24v to 12v, as for weight on drawbar it depends on 5th wheel and pin position
Yes I believe ( again not a lawyer) that fixing the sword rendering it uncouplable and removing the landing legs " technically" makes the dolly and trailer one unit .
5th wheel mounted forward of the centre line of the axle will impose load on the drawbar but only on a fixed drawbar not one that is hinged like on drag trailers.
 

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