Bateman induction hopper

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I have changed from a Knight EUA trailed sprayer to a Bateman RB35.
The pressure on the induction hopper is 1 bar under the rest of the system, is this normal or can it be changed? I am used to Knight where the induction hopper pressure was always a bit higher than the rest of the system.
The extra pressure in the rest of the system is causing the odd air shutoff to drip.
TIA.

 

[principal skinner]

Chem savers need a bit of attention if they are dripping (diaphragms/springs/o rings) driven Bateman’s for 20 years now and you can really crank the pressure up on the induction side.

 

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Chem savers need a bit of attention if they are dripping (diaphragms/springs/o rings) driven Bateman’s for 20 years now and you can really crank the pressure up on the induction side.

Thanks for the speedy reply.
Yeah the valves and diaphragms needed a bit of attention, only one leaking now, but when I run the induction hopper at 5.5 bar the line is near 7 bar, is this normal and can it be reversed?
On the Knight if run the induction hopper at 5.5 the line would near 4. I hate working at the induction hopper directly under a boom full of dangerous chemicals pressurised at way higher than normal spraying presures.
I am going to sort out the last leaking air valve in the morning, but would love to find a way to make it a safer working area, all future failures will happen when I'm standing under the boom because of the way it is set-up at the moment

 

[Robt]

Why on earth do you need to run he hooper that high!!!!! I’ve driven Bateman’s for years and always set hopper at 2bar, maybe 3 if it’s a heavy powder. Never had a problem. I fear you may be running too high

 

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Why on earth do you need to run he hooper that high!!!!! I’ve driven Bateman’s for years and always set hopper at 2bar, maybe 3 if it’s a heavy powder. Never had a problem. I fear you may be running too high

Thanks for the reply.
To clean containers with the nozzle, I wouldn't get any water to even get to the top of the cans at 2 bars let alone clean out stubborn residue. I would find the induction hopper very slow down at those sorts of pressures.

 

[Robt]

I’d suggest you have a plumbing problem rather than a pressure problem! You either have a blockage or a tap that’s not fully opening!

 

[principal skinner]

Can wash works much better at higher pressure rob as does the venturi on the suction side. I always run the pressure 4 bar+ when filling

 

[Timbo1080]

The RB35 relies on deadheading the spray lines while using the induction bowl. I.e. rather than cutting the flow/pressure to the feed end of the spray lines, it shuts the valve behind the tank that stops the liquid returning to tank. This puts the chemsavers under loads of unnecessary pressure. If you can be arsed, replumb it so that the valve works at the feed point of the lines....Bit of winter job really. As otherwise said, get your chemsavers all sorted, they should take it fine, but it’s a bit arse about face to me. Best thing I ever did to the last sprayer we had, was bin the chemsavers & go to electric nozzle bodies that have no diaphragm. Been bateman since our first Agillator, right through to now....Brilliant company.

Edit: also check that the shut off valve hasn’t sheared off....meaning that the lines are constantly recirculating & bleeding off pressure.

 

[Badshot]

I'm with robt on this.
I run about 3bar max, but I have fitted a different can wash.
A whirly nozzle, works well.

Grey one left hand side.

 

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The RB35 relies on deadheading the spray lines while using the induction bowl. I.e. rather than cutting the flow/pressure to the feed end of the spray lines, it shuts the valve behind the tank that stops the liquid returning to tank. This puts the chemsavers under loads of unnecessary pressure. If you can be arsed, replumb it so that the valve works at the feed point of the lines....Bit of winter job really. As otherwise said, get your chemsavers all sorted, they should take it fine, but it’s a bit arse about face to me. Best thing I ever did to the last sprayer we had, was bin the chemsavers & go to electric nozzle bodies that have no diaphragm. Been bateman since our first Agillator, right through to now....Brilliant company.

Edit: also check that the shut off valve hasn’t sheared off....meaning that the lines are constantly recirculating & bleeding off pressure.

Thanks, this what I need to do.
In the long run I want to fit the electric nozzle bodies and link them to a good GPS system, but that will have to wait till I have money.

 

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I'm with robt on this.
I run about 3bar max, but I have fitted a different can wash.
A whirly nozzle, works well.
View attachment 595704
Grey one left hand side.

I had converted the induction hopper on the Knight to put the left nozzle and the middle nozzle into it, but on tough chemicals like CTL, DFF and Yara trace elements higher pressures clean the cans much quicker.

 

[Brisel]

My new Chafer has 2 nozzles in the bowl. The Proclean rotating nozzle is great for general work & get used 95% of the time but the Blade is best for getting suspensions like fungicides off the can bottoms. I don't know how I managed without the Blade - it just took a lot longer to clean old batches of suspensions with the rotating nozzle.

 

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My new Chafer has 2 nozzles in the bowl. The Proclean rotating nozzle is great for general work & get used 95% of the time but the Blade is best for getting suspensions like fungicides off the can bottoms. I don't know how I managed without the Blade - it just took a lot longer to clean old batches of suspensions with the rotating nozzle.

I got that conversion to fit those 2 nozzles on the Knight and they are great, I will have to do the same on the Bateman over the winter.

 

[Jetemp]

Our bateman induction hopper has 2 tank rinse nozzles a s standard, the blade and the pro lean rotating nozzle! Normally run them at 3 bar for optimism cleaning and suction!

James

 

[Bigjon44]

Thanks for the reply.
To clean containers with the nozzle, I wouldn't get any water to even get to the top of the cans at 2 bars let alone clean out stubborn residue. I would find the induction hopper very slow down at those sorts of pressures.

Hi all
Just wondering if anyone can help me!I have just got an 08 RB26 and whilst filling via the induction hopper I don't seem to be getting clean water to rinse my cans out!it seems to be circulating back from the tank it looks like
Am I not doing something or doing something wrong??

 

[principal skinner]

Hi all
Just wondering if anyone can help me!I have just got an 08 RB26 and whilst filling via the induction hopper I don't seem to be getting clean water to rinse my cans out!it seems to be circulating back from the tank it looks like
Am I not doing something or doing something wrong??

Are you isolating the main tank and rinsing while filling?

 

[Bigjon44]

Yeah I press isolate main tank tap, start filling with water but always seems to be running bit chemically still through the bowl rinser and the can nozzle!

 

[principal skinner]

Yeah I press isolate main tank tap, start filling with water but always seems to be running bit chemically still through the bowl rinser and the can nozzle!

It must be drawing chemical from the main tank then, possibly the ball in the isolation valve is worn/scored

 

[Bigjon44]

It must be drawing chemical from the main tank then, possibly the ball in the isolation valve is worn/scored

Yeah it must be drawing chem is there an easy way of checking the isolation valve?

 

[principal skinner]

Yeah it must be drawing chem is there an easy way of checking the isolation valve?

I'm guessing you will have to remove it and see if the ball is scored. Just check that the valve is closing fully, had one go a bit sticky a few years ago.